Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 142
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeh intersted in this also, Hyperdrive is a bit too out of the way for me :( and SST are no more :mad:

whereabouts is Cypher? who can do Dyno tuning?

Well i travelled from bunbury to use hyperdrive and there in house dyno, and believe the hassel worth while. Can you put a price on good advice and expirence

Not a fan of Cypher as have delt with them in the past (and wont be dealling with them in the future) as for dyno, last time they had to use 4mares(or something like that) as they didnt have in house dyno.

only my opinion

X-speed seemed pretty good but last time there they had no in house dyno either

:(

my opinions are from my expirences and dealing only

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63895-best-workshops/#findComment-1200407
Share on other sites

Cypher uses Formaz's dyno i believe..

X-Speed

Hyperdrive

Speedworks

C-Red

not neccesarily in that order, all are respectable workshops... just go down, have a chat and see whom you feel you would want working on your car..

True Dat bam..

having said that, having an inhouse dyno really helps with problem solving and you don't have to rely/book in to use someone elses.

Depends on what you want to do on the car and what specialist expertise is required..

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63895-best-workshops/#findComment-1200536
Share on other sites

Hey Ken, i was after an exhaust and a service/tune at the same time. Is it cool to call you for this + advice ?

Im in the same boat. Live in Warnbro, work in freo. Malaga is basically a state away from me, but if the price and service is right i'll travel, just hard to find the time off work.

PS. what happened to SST?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63895-best-workshops/#findComment-1200585
Share on other sites

Something about a 10 foot pole.........

I think the best way to answer that is to say that they have ceased trading and are no more. The make up of it's pretense are around at other places now.

Keep this thread on target guys or it will be closed very quickly.

When choosing a shop, be happy and content that what they tell you is feasable and possible, and that you know what will be happening to your car and where it will be, who will be driving it (if at all), are they insured, certified, qualified, experienced, and are they capable?

Do you get your phone calls returned? Does anyone take the time to explain the options? Are they interested in more than your money? What does the workshop look like? Is it well equipped, well laid out, clean, tidy, efficient?

Be realistic with your goals and you will be a happy chappy. Ultimately genuine advice comes from experience.

Beware of Imposters and Pretenders.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63895-best-workshops/#findComment-1201026
Share on other sites

Supertec in bentley - scott and baz arent just good at what they do, they are also good blokes who want to help you out. if you are having trouble with something you can drop in for a quick chat about it. baz has come to my house after work to check out why my car wasnt starting...

best bet is to drop in rather than call, they dont like to answer the phone :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63895-best-workshops/#findComment-1201464
Share on other sites

I have dealt with no-one else but Hyperdrive since I bought the car 18 months ago and don't intend on dealing with anyone else. Professional, knowledgeable, friendly, trustworthy, etc etc . All mods, tunes have been spot on and I have been more than happy with the results. They have always made time for me, and gotten me back on the road as quick as possible when I have broken down.

Its not to say that others are better or worse, its just to say that happy customers should be loyal to their workshop. Thanks Ken and Glenn.

my 2c.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63895-best-workshops/#findComment-1201552
Share on other sites

My advice is to visit a shop and see if you get the service you expect.

Get a service and if you're happy then great - if not then you're only down a service.

Look at the sort of cars the shop turns out too - and the runs they have on the board.

As for having an in house dyno - some need it to diagnose problems - some dont - some cant even diagnose with one.

Regards,

Jeff Ash

C-Red Tuning

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63895-best-workshops/#findComment-1201643
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...