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updated 02/05/2010 - added "Basic Hand Controller functions - Online Emulator" which is a html clickable hand controller as a learning aid, first draft in HTML

http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm#95

your crazy....popping and flames impresses the laydeeez

Im in then, i thought i got done by a speed camera one night when i saw a flash on the tree's in front of me, did a u turn to see where he was hiding and got flashed again, thats when i realised that my car spits balls of flame.

I have done a dyno tune in the winter time, everything works fine. Until these day, the weather is getting hot. My car had no problem starting up in the morning or cold start. But warm start (usually I have driven it to fully warm up) and start it up after 15 to 30 mins, the idle will jump around and stall/surge. I have to keep the rev up a bit to keep the engine running and after 5 mins driving everything goes back to normal. Any advise where I should look in to? Thanks!

when the problem occurs check ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK For any sensors that are out of range (black background) or any whack values

also check

MONITOR

4 CHANNEL

AIRTEMP

WATERTEMP

BATTERY

AIRFLOW

anything odd ?

when the problem occurs check ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK For any sensors that are out of range (black background) or any whack values

also check

MONITOR

4 CHANNEL

AIRTEMP

WATERTEMP

BATTERY

AIRFLOW

anything odd ?

Thanks Paul! I will check it in a few days, the weather here is not really hot this few day.

  • 3 weeks later...

When is the O2 sensor supposed to return voltage? I was driving peak hour and a bit of cruising at 80km/h and it was sitting on 0v, sometimes it went up to 0.5v but that was only when I backed off and accelerated again to a cruise speed. I've been having a bit of a problem with fuel economy and backfiring on deceleration/gear changes so I was thinking about replacing the sensor anyway.

the sensor doesnt last forever and should be replaced, its not clear how often, but it should be

id say every 50,000 ish ? the sensor should float around from 0.00v to 1.00v depending on AFRs

if the sensor doesnt move around much its likely to be dead

Hi Paul

I hope you may be able to help me i've got a problem with my tacho/rpm output from my apexi power fc, firstly i was convinced it was the old dry solder joint issue with the rb25 tacho but having now changed 4 sets of tachos and also realising my avcr is also giving the same erratic reading as the tacho it leads to the pin 7 rpm output of which the avcr is also soldered.

So far all the testing is done with the ignition on only. My clocks and the avcr don't move at all with the ignition on. First thing I did was disconnect my avcr but no joy there then also the vems unit and still nothing. Then the dash clocks themselves in case a ground on there was an issue..

I currently have 0.68v on the rpm wire with ignition on only, which jumps up or down every 6/7 seconds you can set your clock by it what i'm not sure of is this causing the problem or is it normal, i don't know anyone else with a power fc on a skyline that could test pin7 voltage and give me something to work with. I have been up and down all the rest of the pins on the ecu. All the grounds are fine and the positive feeds, I found that the consult output wire was sending out a similar jump but this is likely as this would be the output for diagnostic.

The other one which only showed a small milli voltage change just before the tacho jumped is pin 36 air intake temperature signal?.. There must be some signal going out from the ecu every 6/7 secs and basically it doesn't like the return signal and it maybe this that's causing the problem but I have no idea what this could be.

Also need to point out the car runs fine and the hand commander shows the rpm spot on with nice steady readings even when the standard tacho is going crazy so i ruled out the cas as i know the signals come from this to enable the ecu to create the rpm output..

I did check my partners car and my standard skyline and both of those have a constant steady voltage with the ignition on..

I have had a little help from someone called jarrod on the SAU forum who had a similar problem but he identified is as been the standard boost solenoid wire and when he cut it his problem was then solved. Therefore any bad signal into the ecu could be causing this?

I hope you may be able to help

mark

hi mark

not sure what is wrong but in my ECR33 I have Apexi RSM and powerfc

if i turn my key to ON but dont start the car every 6-7 seconds (like yours) my RPM goes from 0 to 40 (ish) RPM and back to 0

the needle doesnt phyiscally move the RSM definetly shows the RPM goto 40 and then back to 0

  • 1 month later...

G'day all,

Can anyone with a R32 or R33 GTR running D-Jetro PFC help me out with their FC-Commander readings? Paul maybe you have come across this info in your years of PFC guru'ness?

Just want to know if (on rb26 d-jetro PFC):

1. the front map sensor is PIM1 and rear is PIM2, and

2. the front O2 sensor is O2-1 and rear is O2-2?

Easy to check, just disconnect the front one, switch ignition to on and then check sensors under ETC... should read 0.0v (ish) for the disconnected one.

Can check the O2 sensor as well by running car until it goes closed loop, switch off O2 feedback then disconnect front O2 sensor in engine bay. Check the sensors display and the disconnected one will read 0.04V (ish).

I have checked the ECU pinouts and wiring diagrams, and mine are wired in the right way (did pin to pin checks)... BUT on the FC-Commander display it shows that PIM2 is front map sensor and O2-2 is front O2 sensor. That would appear to be back to front?

Anyone who can spare the time to check theirs and post up their findings would be heaps appreciated. Can't find this info anywhere.

Cheers

Trying do some fine tuning of injector settings by cross referencing the map sensors and the O2 sensors. Check which are running rich and pull fuel from the rich bank until get similar o2 sensor readings (non closed loop).

Power-FC only averages the Map sensors, not the o2 sensors. The o2 sensors control fuel input for each bank of cylinders... if I swap them around in closed loop, it drives one bank lean (0.1v and the other rich 5.1v).

I know you can pull fuel in bulk to achieve a tailpipe wideband target AFR... but that's pretty poor if 3 cylinders are running super lean and the other 3 are running rich... it will even it out for the right lambda on average but not good for the lean cylinders.

Was getting some results that were conflicting what everyone else has been saying about GTR intake manifolds... ie everyone says rear cylinders run lean. Looked like light load and cruise gives front bank running significantly leaner than rear bank. Pulling 3-5% from the rear bank seems to give equivalent on the hand controller. That doesn't make me feel comfortable though.

Prob just reading too much into it? But want to get things right.

Edited by STAGTR

Referring to the photo regarding to PFC settings 3. Does any 1 know why my Air Flow settings would have been changed from the default of 100% to 0.0% in all 8 boxes when I was using the Original AFM’s?

I’ve recently upgraded from the standard BNR32 to the Z32 AFM’s so I’ve selected the VG30 but need to address something as the car runs terrible. I’m interested to know could the issues be due to the settings not being at 100%?

Also has anyone adjusted their Map Reference to get better resolution?

What is your Min & Max for Load & RPM also REV Limit?

post-60944-1280473906_thumb.jpg

Power-FC only averages the Map sensors, not the o2 sensors. The o2 sensors control fuel input for each bank of cylinders... if I swap them around in closed loop, it drives one bank lean (0.1v and the other rich 5.1v).

are you sure it doesn't average the 02 sensors

from all that we have seen and people in the wild use, most parrell up the 02 sensor signal wire and it's a simple average of both

to lean / richen up cylinders you can do that under correction for each cylinder, under injector size, but i have never known 02 values to be unique and to reference the 3/3 split

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