Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I am thinking of making my own body kit, so I want heaps of ideas and influences. Post up pics of your fav kits please! *Any* car is fine, as I'm after a unique style. If I see something I will like I will adapt it to my car with my own influence.

Ideally I will be going for something aggressive looking, and not too outrageous 'ricer' However the more I see the more I can adapt.

I don't really want this to turn into 10 pages of text, and 4 pics, so try to keep chat to a minimum so we get to see everyone's favs easily :(

Cheers

Chris

youve never seen it on a car because of the price more than anything

X-speed in WA sell a copy for about $1400 for front bar, skirts and rear bar.

I'd love to have the front bar but looking at the photo on the do luck website, my car is lower than the car they have and already the front bar is way too low. I can imagine the front bar having more than 3-4cm clearance on most slightly lowered skylines.

first 1 and last one are of mine kind of, minus stickers the one in the middle i love
What brand of bodykit is that one?

It looks like an Abflug.

This one is from Bomex.

Hey Sambo33, Simon from Road Rage has opened new store called Speed Dreamz 3/ 60 West Tce nxt to Aust'n Pizza House, they supply them.

my old car hehe, ok. im biased! ;)

franky_2.jpg

franky_3.jpg

8511788_DSCN1758.jpeg

stock front bar and east bear front lip (looks hot, but the that ride height DOES NOT work in sydney!)

DSCN1242.jpg

DSCN1233.jpg

some others:

evo 8's dont need much do they! some would say rice, i would say nice :D

evo_rollin2.jpg

458377_16_full.jpg

mazspeeds rx8 - yibbada yibbada!

rx8rear.jpg

soarer - yeah, pimpin.

frankystyle1.jpg

a3.jpg

Do-Luck T2 kit... nuff said, google for thousands of posts from people who don't wanna spend what it costs, who say they want it on everything from a shitty honda to a high horsepower R32 skyline.

Nice R34! Did you change the rear wing uprights or are they a Nissan part?

my old car hehe, ok. im biased! :rofl:

franky_2.jpg

franky_3.jpg

8511788_DSCN1758.jpeg

stock front bar and east bear front lip (looks hot, but the that ride height DOES NOT work in sydney!)

DSCN1242.jpg

DSCN1233.jpg

some others:

evo 8's dont need much do they! some would say rice, i would say nice :)

evo_rollin2.jpg

458377_16_full.jpg

mazspeeds rx8 - yibbada yibbada!

rx8rear.jpg

soarer - yeah, pimpin.

frankystyle1.jpg

a3.jpg

Franks,

great photos, can I ask where you took them? and did you just leave the shutter open longer or did you bring your own lights?

Got to admit I love the Bozzspeed front bar for the FTO, don't think it would suit a skylines nose though. I'm impartial to abit of rice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...