Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmm, not many people mentioning continentals.

The tyre shop at my work supplies them, can get them for a pretty decent price too. The manager said they are a damn good tyre, so im going to have to give them a go sometime.

Continental sport contact 2"s.For a big horsepower road gtr these are the the choice.(also AMG and twin turbo Porsche tyre of choice). I have tried various brands and several years ago was advised by Keir Wilson to try the Conti"s.(I crewed for him for the first 2 1/2 years).They are the only tyre he would have on his E55,and his twin turbo porsche and his recomendation for a quick street GTR.A cheaper tyre may feel great on an average vehicle but nearly all i have tried have verged on dangerous on my gtr. My 2 cents worth.

I had Dunlop FM901's on my big heavy v8 commodore, and as I got more comfortable, I was able to throw it hard around tight s-bends around 80km/hr and they didn't complain one bit!

They got replaced by the DZ101s, which a couple of people (me included) have used and been similarly impressed with them.

Too bad Dunlop's getting rid of the DZ101's too, and not replacing them with another series.

Ive heard that Potenza RE01's are a good tire for 3 track days and regular driving included in between.This was on a BA XR8.

Still as they near their end i am told that they are good.

The only complaint that ive heard is that when they loose the outer tread,they loose a bit of their conering ability.

They are arround $460 a pop retail.:P

Edited by Trust33

Im just about to take the plung on some Toyo T1R's, holly sh!t the boss is going to have kittens.

275 x 35 x 18, hold on $520 a corner!

They better be as good as everyone says they are.

Toyo T1R's are great, After 100Km I have to rate them better then my Yoka Aspecs and the piolot sprots I had on the 33. Im very happy.

Toyo T1R

9/10 Dry

9/10 Wet

6/10 Value (They do cost a bit)

Yoka Aspec

7/10 Dry

8/10 Wet

10/10 Value (1/2 the cost of the T1R)

Mich Piolot Sports

8/10 Dry

9/10 Wet

6/10 Value ( Very expensive)

Absolutely the FK451 they are great tyres.

But make sure they actually put the right ones on. Tempe twice quoted me a price for FK451, then fitted the POS 326s. Then claimed I had asked for 326 in the first place and quoted me another, higher, price for 451s :P

Come see us at Unit 1/97 betts rd Smithfield 2164

For all your tyre needs we have all brands and also sell good condition second hand tyres

I believe you need to speak to Blitz if you want to advertise your services here or in other areas of this forum.

Anyone had any experience with Goodyear Revspec RS-02's?

There was a good review on them in the Wheels tyre comparison article early this year, yet it doesn't seem like anyone on here is using them.

I got relatively good price quote for them ($1154 for all 4 corners), but am I better off spending a bit extra to get the Toyo T1R's ($1370 for all 4) as it seems like quite a few people on here rate them...

Tyres will be going on an R33 GTST (front: 235/45/17, rear: 255/40/17) with around 270rwkw.

Can anyone help? :rolleyes:

Absolutely the FK451 they are great tyres.

But make sure they actually put the right ones on.  Tempe twice quoted me a price for FK451, then fitted the POS 326s.  Then claimed I had asked for 326 in the first place and quoted me another, higher, price for 451s :D

I have heard that one before, good ol' tempe tyres :P

Whats a good price or the falken ziex, I was quoted 160 early in the year. This is for 225/50/16.

Or what is a beter tyre in that size under the 200 mark that has good grip and good tyre life.

Well here is my 2yen about that.....

There is absolutely no point in buying a great performance car and then putting crap tyres on them. And the Falken 326 are crap. They are basically among the cheapest tyres that you can get in big low profile sizes so compliers fit them on a lot of freshly imported cars.

The difference between a bad road tyre and a good road tyre is amazing, you really can feel it and you will enjoy your car heaps more with decent tyres.

So.....enough crapping on....I am saying don't spend 250ea on tyres + 1000 on an intercooler, spend 500ea on tyres instead you will love the difference.

Anyone that has been in a car on the track on race tyres will know what I mean about the difference ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...