Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmm, not many people mentioning continentals.

The tyre shop at my work supplies them, can get them for a pretty decent price too. The manager said they are a damn good tyre, so im going to have to give them a go sometime.

Continental sport contact 2"s.For a big horsepower road gtr these are the the choice.(also AMG and twin turbo Porsche tyre of choice). I have tried various brands and several years ago was advised by Keir Wilson to try the Conti"s.(I crewed for him for the first 2 1/2 years).They are the only tyre he would have on his E55,and his twin turbo porsche and his recomendation for a quick street GTR.A cheaper tyre may feel great on an average vehicle but nearly all i have tried have verged on dangerous on my gtr. My 2 cents worth.

I had Dunlop FM901's on my big heavy v8 commodore, and as I got more comfortable, I was able to throw it hard around tight s-bends around 80km/hr and they didn't complain one bit!

They got replaced by the DZ101s, which a couple of people (me included) have used and been similarly impressed with them.

Too bad Dunlop's getting rid of the DZ101's too, and not replacing them with another series.

Ive heard that Potenza RE01's are a good tire for 3 track days and regular driving included in between.This was on a BA XR8.

Still as they near their end i am told that they are good.

The only complaint that ive heard is that when they loose the outer tread,they loose a bit of their conering ability.

They are arround $460 a pop retail.:P

Edited by Trust33

Im just about to take the plung on some Toyo T1R's, holly sh!t the boss is going to have kittens.

275 x 35 x 18, hold on $520 a corner!

They better be as good as everyone says they are.

Toyo T1R's are great, After 100Km I have to rate them better then my Yoka Aspecs and the piolot sprots I had on the 33. Im very happy.

Toyo T1R

9/10 Dry

9/10 Wet

6/10 Value (They do cost a bit)

Yoka Aspec

7/10 Dry

8/10 Wet

10/10 Value (1/2 the cost of the T1R)

Mich Piolot Sports

8/10 Dry

9/10 Wet

6/10 Value ( Very expensive)

Absolutely the FK451 they are great tyres.

But make sure they actually put the right ones on. Tempe twice quoted me a price for FK451, then fitted the POS 326s. Then claimed I had asked for 326 in the first place and quoted me another, higher, price for 451s :P

Come see us at Unit 1/97 betts rd Smithfield 2164

For all your tyre needs we have all brands and also sell good condition second hand tyres

I believe you need to speak to Blitz if you want to advertise your services here or in other areas of this forum.

Anyone had any experience with Goodyear Revspec RS-02's?

There was a good review on them in the Wheels tyre comparison article early this year, yet it doesn't seem like anyone on here is using them.

I got relatively good price quote for them ($1154 for all 4 corners), but am I better off spending a bit extra to get the Toyo T1R's ($1370 for all 4) as it seems like quite a few people on here rate them...

Tyres will be going on an R33 GTST (front: 235/45/17, rear: 255/40/17) with around 270rwkw.

Can anyone help? :rolleyes:

Absolutely the FK451 they are great tyres.

But make sure they actually put the right ones on.  Tempe twice quoted me a price for FK451, then fitted the POS 326s.  Then claimed I had asked for 326 in the first place and quoted me another, higher, price for 451s :D

I have heard that one before, good ol' tempe tyres :P

Whats a good price or the falken ziex, I was quoted 160 early in the year. This is for 225/50/16.

Or what is a beter tyre in that size under the 200 mark that has good grip and good tyre life.

Well here is my 2yen about that.....

There is absolutely no point in buying a great performance car and then putting crap tyres on them. And the Falken 326 are crap. They are basically among the cheapest tyres that you can get in big low profile sizes so compliers fit them on a lot of freshly imported cars.

The difference between a bad road tyre and a good road tyre is amazing, you really can feel it and you will enjoy your car heaps more with decent tyres.

So.....enough crapping on....I am saying don't spend 250ea on tyres + 1000 on an intercooler, spend 500ea on tyres instead you will love the difference.

Anyone that has been in a car on the track on race tyres will know what I mean about the difference ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...