Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm running some Bridgestone RE540's on the R32 atm,

Brilliant dry grip - 10+/10

Normal wet weather grip - 7/10

Price 225 x 50 x 16 - $280 (on closeout)

The thing is that they are great on smooth roads, but due the the very stiff sidewalls and ~2 degrees of neg, they tramtrack badly over uneven surfaces and will unsettle the front through uneven roundabouts. I will be going back to a less rigid semi for my next purchase. Probably a Toyo RA1, my fav previous tyre, not quite as much dry grip as the Bridgestones (still far more than a street tyre), but better wet grip and a softer sidewall.

Jamie

Hankook Ventus K104

235/40/17

255/40/17

$860 fitted to R33 gts-t rb30 284 rwkw 947nm (bloody high-flow)

Don't really like them.

Straight line traction not too good, I know, (too much torque)

1st and 2nd forget it, 3rd so-so

Huge difference when hot or cold.

Feel stable at high speeds, good under brakes.

Hang on ok around corners after 4 laps at Oran Park but too much side wall flex.

Feel a little squirmy when hot.

6/10

  • 1 month later...

Nankang NS2 235/45 17's

Dry performance 6/10

Wet performance 3/10

In the dry once they are warm they were pretty good. though after 3-4 laps you could feel the sidewalls etc moving around. i was pretty happy

for them in the dry for what they are.

In the wet is a different story. No grip what so ever, the smallest bit of throttle would spin the rears and corner speeds would see the rear

the squirm then the front and end up in four wheel sliding, which was a quite unpredictable.

Federal 595RS 235/45 17's

Dry performance 8/10

Wet performance 8/10

While i was impressed with the dry performance of the ns2's these are in the different league. Worth 1-2 seconds on the track easy. corner entry

and mid corner grip is fantastic.

Performance in the wet is unbelievable, having grip turning in and around the corner is amazing. around longer radius corners i could feel the sideways moving around with a hot pres around 38-40. but this was at least quite predictable.

have done 2 track days now, one in the wet and done about 800km on them, only signs of wear are the sidewall fingers are all long gone.

  • 2 weeks later...

Unitrac focus2000 on stock 33 gtst rims watever size that is

Dry performance 5/10

Wet performance 0/10.. corners I previously took in the wet at 55-60k an hr in my fwd corolla on $60 mystery tyres cant even be taken at 35k an hour.. if I drive through a puddle at 60k an hour in a straightline I aquaplane while other cars pass me with ease at 70k an hour.

Value?/10 these came new with the car when I bought it so im guessing they were the cheapest tyres around, shows you get what you pay for I guess

Sumitomo HTR ZIII

235/40/18

$285 a corner fitted and balanced

Dry 8/10

Wet 8/10

Very stiff side wall, excellent tread design. Handled really well in the last couple of down poors in Adelaide. More grip when hot, but still good and predictable when cold. No where near as much shoulder wear as previous tyres.

KU36

225/55/16

$161 from option1

Dry Performance 8/10

Wet Performance 8/10

Great Tyre for the price, good comprimise between a track and road tyre and handles the wet well.

Still waiting for the right tyre sizes to be available such as 245/40/18 or 265/35/18 locally in Malaysia. Heard many good reviews in many forums. Still miss my Falken Rt615, anyone tested both to advice which is better?

  • 2 weeks later...
anyone had any experience with......

YOKOHAMA A032R

semi slicks?

Are these similar the...say falken 615's? etc? or a "true" semi slick?

Yeah I had to use them for years because they were our control tyres. They are proper semi slicks but rubbish for the price.

1-3 seconds slower than DZ03 or re55s

no they are too hard if anything, not too soft.

they will be fine if you are happy to go 2 sec slower :P

Just grab some re55s or dz03g to get best performance. Or maybe even yoko a050r.

i need to get new tyres asap, ive looked through this thread but everyone says diffrent things,

what are good tyres for a non turbo r33 gts4?

im thinking maey Federal 595 Rs-R

Edited by sydking
Sumitomo HTR ZIII

235/40/18

$285 a corner fitted and balanced

Dry 8/10

Wet 8/10

Very stiff side wall, excellent tread design. Handled really well in the last couple of down poors in Adelaide. More grip when hot, but still good and predictable when cold. No where near as much shoulder wear as previous tyres.

Definitely a very reasonably priced Assymetrical design out there. I was quite impressed with them also.

TOYO R1R

Dry Performance 9.5/10

Wet Performance 8/10

price for 235/45 R17

is $305 each, which isnt cheap but they do hold on really well and dont make any noise around a corner.

they give you so much more confidence when coming into a corner.

IMO the tyre is the best one you can get for street,

they're a little bit soft, and probably wont last the longest. but even normal city driving you can feel the heat in the rubber when you stop and feel the tyre.

final opinion:

they're not cheap, but well worth the cash if you're after a very high performing tyre.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...