Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Drive KMs on end just to find a BP with ULTIMATE, only to find how long my Fuel light lasts.  

BP everytime!

If not ill goto a Shell

likewise to find optimax...... only used optimax in the 2-3months ive had the skyline, but only optimax for the last 3yrs in my SP20, with regular service never had a single problem

Check which refinery sharing program runs in your state to find out what fuels you really buy. Most of the premiums come from the same refineries for all servos in some states.

I think it's a better idea to buy from servos with a higher turnover for 'fresher' fuel.

This topic has been done - do a search! :(

I use BP ultimate only for the ceifro. If I absolutely have to I'll use optimax.

In my daily and previous leaded car I only ever used optimax.

Stay away from the fake high octante (I think it's vortex or something that's not 98ron?)

Definately BP ultimate. Like most people use optimax as a 2nd choice. As someone mentioned you need to pick a servo that has higher usage that way the fuel isnt old. I found BP ultimate to be more consistant that optimax.

I dont think its a matter of skylines being tempremental, but and turbo car its fairly important. Most people here have some sort of mods, and running leaner and with more timing and boost than from factory it is more important.

I've been using BP Ultimate for about 3 years now, no problems! But according to a test done in Autosalon magazine about 2 months ago Shell Optimax had a slightly higher octane reading (98.6) compared with BP, Mobil and Caltex (98.5). They claimed that their tests were done by an independent laboratory.

"Oh no, it's the cops!"

"Worse, the police cops!"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...