Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey just wondering what u guys think would be better for me... i know its hard to say coz its depends on what i want...

i just sold my 93 r33 gtst which was lightly modified just had a full zorst, pod fmic and boost and got a 13.6.

in my next skyline im lookin for something faster mid 12's or even a 11 later on.

i know it would be easy in a 33 gtr but how do 34 gtt's go compared too 33 gtst...

what would it take in mods to get a 34 gtt in mid 12's down the 1/4 mile.

i know with a gtr all ull need is zorst,pods boost and a good clutch

any help would be great... coz i just wnat the power but dont wanan be stuck with the 33 shape again

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75838-r34-gtt-or-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

GTT is the same as your Gtst ( with a little better engine)... so how hard do you think it would of been to get your gtst into the 12/11s?

12's i'm sure you could do, 11's is a big step ... much easier to get to in a GTR... Its up to you

its such a hard decision for me to make... coz i know if i get a 33 gtr it would be easy 12's, ferni - what mods have u got and what times have u got?

but i just wanna know what do u thikn ud need to get a 34 gtt into the mid 12's?

for power gtr will always be better but im into more as 12 sec street car not a 10-11sec drag car...i greatly appreiciate all the help choosing...

also whats the price diff.. lets say 96 s2vspec gtr vs 99 manual turbo gtt??

GTT is the same as your Gtst ( with a little better engine)...

A little better engine is a bit of an understatement! Much better engine, plus better turbo, better steering, better suspension, better interior, ....

BUT, if you really do want fast times, I suspect to the probelm will be the rear wheel drive - my 255/45 tires will just spin if I'm not to carefull. So while the 4 wheel drive system gives you extra weight, it also gives you extra traction!

Ian

']well if you want a gtr minus the r33 shape and you cant afford the r34 gtr, get a cheapish r32 gtr and then do that up. you will have left over change to DMS it up! haha

You think like me. LoL

I just don't like the 33 shape, that's why I got the latest model R32 GTR possible, well it wasnt 'cheapish.'

I would probably go the 33GTR at the end of the day. Remember a GTT is newer but in the end its just an update of a car you already had. You would get used to drving it becasue it would have similar characteristics as the previous model 33 it would become predictable in drviving. And yes I have driven a 98 GTT it was different in looks wise but everything feeled similar just more refined. If you bought a GTR it would be like having a totally new car even though its a 33 because you would have to learn its limits as it would be a totally different drving experience.

its such a hard decision for me to make... coz i know if i get a 33 gtr it would be easy 12's, ferni - what mods have u got and what times have u got?

but i just wanna know what do u thikn ud need to get a 34 gtt into the mid 12's?

for power gtr will always be better but im into more as 12 sec street car not a 10-11sec drag car...i greatly appreiciate all the help choosing...

also whats the price diff.. lets say 96 s2vspec gtr vs 99 manual turbo gtt??

Yeah i made the same choice when i bough my GTR, i went for the 33GTR instead of GTT and i don't regret it. personal choice tho.

I have exaust, cam gears and run about 1bar boost, i run about 270rwkw and the one time i did go to the drag strip i ran 12.4... traction was bad on the day, i recon i could knock another couple of 1/10ths off with a better day... but my car is daily driven, and i take it to the track (circuit) a few times a year..

To get a 34GTT into the mid 12's? not sure ask someone whos done it, i don't know of any GTT's in the mid 12s :D for a 33GTR you're probbaly looking 30-50k, GTT not sure guessing around 30-35k?

Spending 40k on a car is a lot of money - you should go check out both GTT and GTR in the flesh and drive both if you can before spending your hard earned $.

yeh its a hard decsion, im purchaseing after winter so ill be test driving a few gtt's and gtr's, thanx for all the replies guys, ive thought about r32 gtr but i just cant see myself degrading to an older car im into more newer cars.

if i had to get a gtr it had to be s2 vspec or nothing..

would there be much differnce in insurence? how bout maintence is gtr alot more to maintain?

thanx again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...