Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 214
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Is it? i asked friend's around, my friend has a rxy and i got a 33 '94 his car is way lighter, coz 33 has a bigger body. I dont think that they would be the same weight.

how do you know his rex is way lighter?

did you pick it up over your head then your car and go .. yeh.. I only got 1 rep with the skyline and easily 3 reps with the rex?

it's been posted before.

the manufacterer states that the 03 wrx is 1350kg. probably slightly heavier for the AUTO and maybe a little heavier again for the wagon shape.

and so is the R33 GTST.

I dont think that they would be the same weight

again... you "THINK" wrong.

Info for the features of the wrx are posted here http://www.cars101.com/subaru/impreza/impr...dard%20features and for the 33:

Gts 25 sedan 1360 kg auto,

Gts 25 coupe 1340 kg auto,

Gts 25 coupe 1310 kg manual,

Gts 25 sedan type g 1360 kg, auto

Gts 25 coupe type s 1350 kg, auto

Gts 25 coupe type s 1320 kg, manual

yes.. it says 3085 pounds.

devide that with 2.25 (1 kg = 2.25 pounds)

and you get 1371kg.

so basically says that the 03 wrx is HEAVIER than the R33 GTST considering your data says

Gts 25 coupe 1310 kg manual,

and like I said, auto is even heavier at 3140 for the sedan and 3220 for the auto wagon

how do you know his rex is way lighter?

did you pick it up over your head then your car and go .. yeh.. I only got 1 rep with the skyline and easily 3 reps with the rex?

it's been posted before.

the manufacterer states that the 03 wrx is 1350kg. probably slightly heavier for the AUTO and maybe a little heavier again for the wagon shape.

and so is the R33 GTST.

again...  you "THINK" wrong.

I just checked the weight on the rego ( my 01 rex , 03 is the same ) 1352kg .

I checked the 02 sti rego 1432 kg ( extra weight is mainly the 6 speed and a few other bits ) .

Checked the weight on the r33 gtst ( on the Nissan workshop manual ) 1320 kg .

And you are right in saying the hatch is a little heavier and add a little for the auto as well .

Having said all that stock for stock the rex is quicker than the gtst everywhere and by a good margin as well .

0-100 + 1/4 mile . On the circuit it all depends on the driver and tyres used .

And no you dont have to rev the rex to 6000 rpm top take off , there is no point .

3000 rpm is more than enough and no you wont break 1st gear either taking off .

Rexes break 2nd gear but mostly on worked cars and by people that dont know how to treat a rex g/box .

I have had several rexes and i have never busted a box yet .

Have you ever owned a RWD car? Because if that's the total list of vehicles you own, I'm not surprised you think a standard WRX isn't all that understeery.

I'm not sure where I stated these were the only cars I'd owned, but in answer to your question-yes mate I have. Before I bought my WRX I had an ED XR6 and before that I had a V8 XE Falcon that's still parked in the garage.

I know they understeer if you don't understand throttle control. Do you disagree? I stand by my opinion that the WRX chassis is very well balanced.

I did 10 or so motorkhanas in my MY00 WRX which equates to about 12 full-bore launches each day and when I sold the car at 102,000 km both the original clutch and gearbox were still in great condition.

Cheers,

Ben

I'm not sure where I stated these were the only cars I'd owned, but in answer to your question-yes mate I have. Before I bought my WRX I had an ED XR6 and before that I had a V8 XE Falcon that's still parked in the garage.

I never said you did. The more perceptive people out there would have noticed a question mark at the end of that sentence.

And if the sum total an ED and XE Falcon (and I did say if here, I realise once again that you didn't say "only") are the only rear driving vehicles you've ever owned, once again I'm not surprised you think the WRX (in standard setup) is balanced and nimble.

hmmmmmm

id go the r33 cause i like skylines - duh!

but i reckon for like track stuff - or some serious drifting maybe the rex would be good

especially as has been said - they handle awesome in the wet and dry

they are very quick and very nimble

its because they are slightly lighter and have a shorter wheel base meaning there tends to be a less of a reduction in power @ the rear wheels and all 4 wheels tend to bog down when accelerated hard - unlike a r33 which has a longer wheel base and the back bogs down more than the front

Grip will always win over handling in the wet. And AWD's have bags of it on throttle, relative to a 2WD vehicle, so they flatter bad drivers in low-grip conditions.

In the dry I'd be more than happy to try keeping up with any WRX or STi with a driver of equivalent skill to mine. I think it would be quite close.

In the wet, I know I've got no chance. I'd try hanging on for as long as I can, just for the challenge, but unless the person behind the wheel is a complete muppet I know its a losing battle

I have much respect for the WRX. For what it is, it does an excellent job. There's no doubt in my mind that, with my paltry skills, should I ever run a WRX with a similarly power to weighted 2WD car in a lot of situations I'd be faster in the WRX. But that just speaks volumes about my inability to drive a car that won't spear off the road if I'm not smooth on the throttle and steering inputs, rather than the inherent poise of the vehicle.

I just don't mistake the car for what it is. A small family car that's been developed for rallying, and pressed in to tarmac service.

its because they are slightly lighter and have a shorter wheel base meaning there tends to be a less of a reduction in power @ the rear wheels and all 4 wheels tend to bog down when accelerated hard - unlike a r33 which has a longer wheel base and the back bogs down more than the front

Can you unpack that for me, and come again? :confused:

just 4 interest sake

www.jbskyline.net/R33/GTR/Specs

says that an r33 GTR with the RB26DETT does the 1/4 mile in 14.0 at 104mph

while http://motortrend.com/roadtests/sedan/112_...sub/index2.html

says that an '04 subaru wrx sti with the 2.5L flat4 turbo DOHC does the 1/4mile in 13.23 @ 104.6mph

i think that the WRX eats the r33 on the 1/4mile - until the power of the RB kicks in and the r33 flys past the WRX and eats it in turn - hahaha the thought of that is pretty funny

Can you unpack that for me, and come again?  :confused:

umm

its a habit of mine to suck sh$t out my a$$ and bullsh$t really well

i'll give it a better go

The r33 has an overall length of 4405mm while the

WRX has an overall length of 4675mm

and in apearance u can see that the WRX looks stubbier than the r33

because it is stubbier it tends to squat down on all fours (if u no what i mean - it drops it guts rather than its ass)

while the r33 tends to drop its ass a bit more

this means that the r33 gets a good launch - but the WRX has the advantage of having it take of with all wheels better (the front would slip a little easier on the 33 than the WRX)

BUT...because i hane't driven either of them - i cant really tell from experience

ohh - this is also deduced from seeing WRX's and r33's at the drags and the different ways they take off

look - i may ave also just f$$ked this up gloriously and got it all wrong - but thats just me!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...