Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally after playing around with RB26 cams which i couldnt get to work, i installed the Poncams with good results.

Power went from 207 to 221kw both @ 18psi.

There is sooo much more top end its unreal, it just hits redline so much quicker, this is obvious in the graphs, where before power would drop quite dramatically it now holds a lot longer.

4500 165 172

4700 176 181

4900 183 189

5100 190 197

5300 196 207

5500 204 216

5700 207 220

5900 204 219

6100 201 217

6300 200 214

6500 192 210

Average Power = 192.5 203.8

If the first run continued to 7000rpm you would see an even bigger difference.

At first i was a bit dissapointed with the max power, but just lookin at how much more top end its gained im stoked.

Its off to the creek in a month or so ....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81057-poncams-installed-221-rwkw-in-rb20/
Share on other sites

What he said^^^^^^.

Interested on cam specs and what turbo is being used.

Nice result. Its not just top end thats improved it has gained power everywhere.

At 4,000rpm both setups are on par at approx. 100rwkw. But from then on the new setup is ahead on average 15rwkw all the way to 6500rpm and then gets better from there. I was always under the impression cams would sacrifice a little down low for the gains up top but this setup has proven me wrong. Do you have the boost graph from before? Because it even looks like boost is coming in earlier?

i would of thought that turbo would of made peak power even later than a stock turbs!

Is your power FC tuned for responce rather than peak power? Its very well known that the tune can change everythin!

18psi wit 170,000kms, motor must of been very well looked after mate :P

You still haven't told us what cams you are running. :P

Now you have done cams you will find a nice little manifold will help top end not to mention mid range. Possibly a HKS Cast item? They are cheap and flow well.

Excellent result.. Looks a lot like Roy's power curve.

Roy what cams were you running? :P

170,000km's.. Doesn't suprise me, The little old RB's are tough.

Interestering how peak rpm power stayed the same... :)

Did the cams come with the specs, intake opening closing etc?

Its a little sheet that should state something along the lines of IVO, IVC, EVO, EVC.

thats what i thought as well....

no specs sheet except for table on what other cams are available, like 260, 8.80mm lift ... however if you want to use those you have to go to solid lifters...

They set me back about $900.

And they are a straight bolt on, no shiming required...

Yeah, great result.

For the money spent, I reckon doing a cam swap for a set of Poncams is better value than doing the whole adjustable cam gear thing

I reckon this is what my car needs, just to get some more useable RPM out of it. Im sick of changing gears at 6500rpm! 8000rpm is what I want!

Cam also need better airflow to work properly.

Mine made no differnce in peak power, but average power was down. (Stock Turbo) but when I would in a touch more boost, look the fark out, because it took of like a rocket.

Just gotta get my higflow now!

Yeah, great result.

For the money spent, I reckon doing a cam swap for a set of Poncams is better value than doing the whole adjustable cam gear thing

I reckon this is what my car needs, just to get some more useable RPM out of it. Im sick of changing gears at 6500rpm! 8000rpm is what I want!

Standard cams should let you change round 7800 still?

Stock turbos dont help I guess.

Yeah, great result.

For the money spent, I reckon doing a cam swap for a set of Poncams is better value than doing the whole adjustable cam gear thing

I reckon this is what my car needs, just to get some more useable RPM out of it. Im sick of changing gears at 6500rpm! 8000rpm is what I want!

Forget about getting cam gears, even tho ive got these they made very little difference. They were tuned at 1deg advance on inlet 1deg retard on exhaust.

Thats when you know cams are well made, when they need very little to no adjustment to get the best results.

Save your money and get urself cams not cam gears !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kittens in first to claim dominance of the residence, then puppies later From past experience, the other way around can be problematic to say the least  Those weird "Dobby looking"  little kittens are not cheap....LOL
    • At least yours have parkour down pat. One of mine will still trip over his own shadow and fall over... He's a special type of cat... Ha ha ha
    • The question then becomes - was there any fluid coming from that hole before you did the rebuild ?    You may not have noticed, of course.   Depending on how you did the rebuild, the possibility has to be considered that somehow (cleaning ?)  fluid entered that hole and is now being 'forced'  out by small movements of the proportioning valve.   From the factory, there's actually a small rubber plug in that hole but with age and under-bonnet heat it's quite common for it to 'go missing'.  That rubber plug is designed to allow the venting process but also to prevent 'stuff' getting to the area (prevent corrosion, etc).   The plug is also not available as a spare part AFAIA. Personally I wouldn't race and buy a new master just yet but keep an eye on the area to see if the 'leak' continues.   If you're concerned about brake fluid damaging nearby paintwork, cable tie a piece of suitable absorbant material over the hole and remove/monitor occasionally.    Operation of the proportioning valve and the brake master itself won't be affected, but also keep an eye on brake fluid level, of course. In terms of a new master, the genuine part is getting expensive, unfortunately.  Amayama is showing AUD900+.   I was searching recently and there's an aftermarket part available from Japan made by 'Parts Assist': https://zenmarket.jp/en/yahoo.aspx?q=BNR32%2bBM50&p=1 Whether it's any good I have no idea, although in my experience Japanese aftermarket stuff is pretty good quality-wise.   The above site allows overseas buyers to purchase stuff more easily from Japan but there are fees and shipping costs, of course.   The original Japanese seller page is here: https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1197401228 Copper/Nickel is fine but I still prefer bundy tube and it's also cheaper.
    • Your chihuahuas look weird!
×
×
  • Create New...