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Touge (mountain Passes) Car, What Would You Get???


nsta
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Hey people,im really thinkin of selling my r33 gts-t and getting someting more suited for the mounts, and trackdays etc..i would like power, but not too much, more bottom end/midrange would do fine.

2 contenders for me, r32 gtr and rx7 s6 fd.

I need some honest opinions. I need something that handles great, ive heard both these cars are reliable in that department, and im going for grip driving more than drift.

I know there are more cars to choose from, but i narrowed them down to these ones, fairly simlar pricing etc.....though i could pick up an fd rx7 import for quite cheap.

One thing though, i knw nothing about the rotaries....so could that bias my decision to the rb26 or not?

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you are talking about the difference between a $20k car and a $30-40k car

imo, a gtr will probably be better, but FD's look farking hawt!!!!

Be wary of a lot of the really cheap 1989 r32 gtr's which have been flooding the market recently, because they're getting old. a couple of people I know who imported r32 gtr's under 15 year rule have had engines die on them etc.

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20k?,im pretty sure both are very similar, i just need to know how well the r32 would compete in the twisties.....im very keen on getting one,and am aware of the dying imports that have recently flooded the market.

Please help me out,i definitly want to let go of the 33 25t for something better suited for the track....

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i suspect you have been watching a fair bit of initial D and best motoring with only 1 hand on the remote if you know what i mean. never the less i will tell you what i think.

if you are only interested in touge driving then a base model mirage will be good enough as that will happily allow you to drive at the speed limit on any road in australia. if you want to driver faster than the speed limit on narrow roads then it doesn't matter what car you have just get lots of insurance, actually don't as you will just push up my premium when you crash.

now, if you are serious about driving on the track I reckon an R32 GTST or an S13 silvia would be pretty hard to beat. both are much lighter than the FD or GTR, both have cheap (to replace), tunable engines. Both have huge aftermarket and workshop support, both have a fairly decent suspension set-up. a little money spent on brakes, some more on suspension, then just some basic engine mods and slap on some good tyres and you are away. You might think i am talking out my ass, but i own a GTR and have done quite a few track days and super sprints in it and i will be buying a silvia or GTST early next year to take over on the track. GTR will stay as it's a nice car, but unless you have a decent budget they don't make the best race car. still very good, but a decent GTST will be nearly as quick for half the dollars.

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Whats done to the R33, id be half inclined to keep it, they arent that bad a thing and can turn a reasonable pace...good cars to learn in as well...and cheaper to repair/fix come the inevitable breakdown/crash.

GTR does most things easier when std, but consider that soem examples gettign around can have 10 yr old performance suspension, brakes, clutches etc etc so the performance mods you are buying with the car may not last all that long...just be a thinking shopper and enjoy whatever it is you buy,

Oh...and if you havent done any track work, it pained me to learn that for a hell fo a long time my stock car was well and truly quicker then me so dont be too worried about the mods, just enjoy it

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I reckon an integra type r would be great. Quick enough for road speed limits, easy to get and insure.

BTW we call them "hillclimbs" in Oz not togue :D There are plenty of closed road events you can compete in, if you are in NSW one of the best roads around is on in a couple of weeks, check NSW events for Bulladelah hillclimb

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i agree with all of the above...

i think initial D maybe the culprit in this one. my opinion is as below,

1. Touge.

GTR and FD are not suited so dont waste money on these. you will be spending way too much money on petrol, brakes, tyres for touge. For sharp corners in the mountains FF will do the job as Beer Baron said but i would go either civic or integra as there are better mod parts for these chasis. you can just even go EF or EG and put B16A and it will be a pocket rocket and put a decent suspension and it should do the job. also 15' tyres are cheap so you can run every night if you want to.

lighter cars are better downhill cos there are less strain on the brakes and FF is good cos you wont spin so easily and really chuck the car into the corner... unless you are takumi...

2. tracks.

depends on what kind of track it is as well but GTR and FD are not suited either in my opinion. if you set up the EF then it might be ok on track as well or DC should do the job as well. go S13 if you think you might wanna drift here and there... smaller tracks are better with smaller cars that do not loose its speed all around the track then high power cars which need to slow down heaps on many corners.

thats my 4c...

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I gota admit, the car we have the most fun it (excluding sleepers because they just do not handle) have been the small low power cars that handle and stop good. My mates civic is the top of the list. Its amazing that car, I strugle to keep up with it in the cef until we get some straights.

And its a LOT cheaper.

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if you go a 32, consider an rb25det swap.. the rb20det's imo don't have enough low down torque  c/w rb25/sr20

LOL...everyone always says that :D But consider on a track how often does the engine fal under 4,000rpm??? I know mine never really drops under 4,500-4,600rpm.

The only time i figure you miss a bit more low end is when you are slowed mid corner by slower traffic, its much easier to manage traffic if you can trample it at any rev and get past them... :)

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Thanks everyone for the help, mountain passes (hillclimbs) only for certain events that id like to participate in, and for the track of course.

I just would like to know how much handling improvements you can get out of these 25t's?, i would like to go for fairly good power (200 - 220 rwkw), whilst still maintaining good low down-midrange power and handling to boot.

Im just a bit scared as ive had a few heart-stopping experiences with the car (3 to be exact), its more a thing that i dont recieve enoiugh feedback from the car when its at it's limit, and next thing you know without any warning the car flicks out viciously, spinning out.I heard hicas has something to do with it, its one thing that gives me the creeps about the car, and to be honest, i feel its not letting me push what seems to be a good contender.

My shocks are stock, and springs are lowered (got the car this way), i heard this is a no-no combo?

One another subject, the r32 gtr has been somehting ive looked into alot, if i decide to take this route, i definitely will buy one from here, instead of importing and pay the extra $$$ for better deal in the long run. How would an r32 compare???what makes them a better car?, is it just the meer potential for power and easy power, and its handling what?

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Well first thing if you are trying to get a gtst to move quickly what you need is suspension and tyres not more power.....they are quicker than 95% of cars stock let alone with basic mods.

Personally I would go the whiteline handling kit, some decent tyres (about 500 a corner) and spend the rest on driver training....that will let you drive much quicker than a shiney intercooler will :P

Re the car spinning....unless you are provoking it that is very unusual. Does it happen under power, under brakes or mid corner? Skylines like most modern cars understeer mostly. Have you had a wheel alignment lately? (could be a rear toe out problem)

And finally in my ramblings.....33 gtst v 32 gtr. Well first up a 32 GTR isn't a better car.....10 years extra thrashing makes a lot of difference to a car's handling. Once you change the bushes, suspension etc etc on the GTR it handles as well as a younger GTST does :) You just need to be aware the purchase price might be similar but the GTR will end up costing a heap more over the years

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agree with duncan...

first thing is take your car to the limit by fully doing up the suspension and get good tyres...

power is only good if you can handle it... on the track and hill climbs you need skills more than power...

i have seen some NA cars catch up to turbo cars on track because of driver's skills and tight small corners...

no matter how fast you can take the straights smaller cars can just catch up on the corners...

as a beginner theres no need to worry too much about low end torque etc cos chances are you are not even driving the car properly to make a difference... practise will make you go fast around the track...

drive a car you can handle... drive stock and when you feel the limits upgrade suspension and when you feel the limits here make other mods to improve...

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keep the r33.. spend the money on the bits that matter.. they don't seem to blow up.

you buy a GTR, you're going to have to buy sump baffles, oil coolers, etc... then they can blow up anyhow.

depends what you want to do.. want to be the fastest guy out there ? (good luck) and compete against the upper echelon of mainly 4WD turbo cars such as expensive GTR, porsches, evo's, wrx, etc.. or just want to have fun in RWD and kick the ass of a few commos, other skylines, etc and maybe even surprise some of the former. There is always going to be plenty in your class to compete against.

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Just another thing too. DONT GO BIG WHEELS!!! I personally at least think big wheels = small tyres = wont absorbe small bumps, I dont think suspension can take up everything thats on a mountain, at least not round here. I mean, its not a place you want to lose it...

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