Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive had a search around and cant find anyone else with a problem that seems as bad as mine,

thats why im posting,

the 1st problem is under acceleration the rear end feels as if every bolt in the rear cradle is loose and the whole thing is just swaying about to do as it pleases very unseltling feeling,

but whats worse is under hard braking the whole car pulls very savagely to the right, requiring you to make sure yourve got a firm grip on the wheel incredable unselting

now ive checked everything from all the plug and loom conections, pwr steer fluid level/leaks, even the rear rack to make sure it was secure

so im stumped as to what it could be, so if anyone can help, please

(sorry bout the rave)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86285-hicas-big-problem/
Share on other sites

Can I suggest that the brake problem is unrelated to the rear end problem. The brake problem is probably the result of the LH caliper siezing, sometimes it can be an imbalance in the front caster settings.

Its denfinitely not a problem with bushes as it has nolathane bushes fittted through out front an rear,

and i can tell the difference between the the two it is the hicas, badly worn bushes never feel like this

its not an alignment issue either as i just got new tyres fitted and a alignment done,

but the hicas warning light is on most off time to

and the car is fitted with an aftermarket steer wheel to

but the hicas warning light is on most off time to

and the car is fitted with an aftermarket steer wheel to

That would have been useful info to have from the start :)

Is the wheel a proper HICAS wheel? Is it aligned correctly?

There should be a slot in the back of the wheel for a long black protusion in the centre of the wheel to insert into.

Also what the elk says sounds like a good opinion too.

Did the subframe bushes get done as well??? if not they are the culprit I'm talking about.

There are two different boss kits for R32 (unsure of which model you have). Part numbers ON-110 and ON-115 (iirc) and one is used for early model R32's and one for late models.

Search for a thread titled "My GTR" by "Pentae" and there is a lot of info on the second page. Might help clarify? If not R32, disregard! :D

hi, did they do the bushes in the hubs also and the rear rack ends/tierods, if these are worn this will add a lot of wiggle to the rear end, jack up rear of car, support on stands and try to turn the rear wheels left to right by hand, there should be no movement at all!

but more likely it will be your steering wheel, aftermarket wheels seem to cause a few probs with hicas as people dont align the pin properly.

DON'T get your wheels aligned at Bob Janes or Tyre Power etc (just a warning!)...Bob funked my HICAS, the light is on when cold and on when I turn left now :cheers:

Brakes: check the pads...also the distance away from the disc of the front left pad might be greater than the front right....possibly due to being more warn down.

HICAS: meh!, everybody dance now (Baseketball happy dance :D )

  • 5 years later...

Hmmm i have a momo wheel aswell i dunno what boss hit it have either i thinks its also momo so i dunno if my hicas is stuffing up i never see light on only when i start the car and then it switches off but i am also getting a scraping when i 1st start out driving the car when cold and a lump lump lump like i am running over golf balls but only with right hand rear wheel i check tyre seems good and when i get abit of speed it seems to go away and i dont feel it till i leave my car and start it again after work.

That sounds far to dangerous to waste money on fixing

Just get a HICAS lock bar. I spent forever trying to avoid doing this cause I had perfectly working HICAS, but it started making the car feel a bit unsteady in the wet so I got rid of it.

HICAS Lock Bar, Wheel Alignment and should be sweet

Hmmm i have a momo wheel aswell i dunno what boss hit it have either i thinks its also momo so i dunno if my hicas is stuffing up i never see light on only when i start the car and then it switches off but i am also getting a scraping when i 1st start out driving the car when cold and a lump lump lump like i am running over golf balls but only with right hand rear wheel i check tyre seems good and when i get abit of speed it seems to go away and i dont feel it till i leave my car and start it again after work.

I have this same problem only the lump sound is on the front passenger side. The car still handles wonderfully, just that sound worries me. I'll probably take a look later in the week when I install my brake pads.

Doesn't sound like a HICAS problem to me, HYBRID VL - especially if the HICAS light isn't coming/staying on

Go see a wheel/suspension place and get stuff checked out. Could be anything like worn suspension bushes - best to get it checked out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...