Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive had a search around and cant find anyone else with a problem that seems as bad as mine,

thats why im posting,

the 1st problem is under acceleration the rear end feels as if every bolt in the rear cradle is loose and the whole thing is just swaying about to do as it pleases very unseltling feeling,

but whats worse is under hard braking the whole car pulls very savagely to the right, requiring you to make sure yourve got a firm grip on the wheel incredable unselting

now ive checked everything from all the plug and loom conections, pwr steer fluid level/leaks, even the rear rack to make sure it was secure

so im stumped as to what it could be, so if anyone can help, please

(sorry bout the rave)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86285-hicas-big-problem/
Share on other sites

Can I suggest that the brake problem is unrelated to the rear end problem. The brake problem is probably the result of the LH caliper siezing, sometimes it can be an imbalance in the front caster settings.

Its denfinitely not a problem with bushes as it has nolathane bushes fittted through out front an rear,

and i can tell the difference between the the two it is the hicas, badly worn bushes never feel like this

its not an alignment issue either as i just got new tyres fitted and a alignment done,

but the hicas warning light is on most off time to

and the car is fitted with an aftermarket steer wheel to

but the hicas warning light is on most off time to

and the car is fitted with an aftermarket steer wheel to

That would have been useful info to have from the start :)

Is the wheel a proper HICAS wheel? Is it aligned correctly?

There should be a slot in the back of the wheel for a long black protusion in the centre of the wheel to insert into.

Also what the elk says sounds like a good opinion too.

Did the subframe bushes get done as well??? if not they are the culprit I'm talking about.

There are two different boss kits for R32 (unsure of which model you have). Part numbers ON-110 and ON-115 (iirc) and one is used for early model R32's and one for late models.

Search for a thread titled "My GTR" by "Pentae" and there is a lot of info on the second page. Might help clarify? If not R32, disregard! :D

hi, did they do the bushes in the hubs also and the rear rack ends/tierods, if these are worn this will add a lot of wiggle to the rear end, jack up rear of car, support on stands and try to turn the rear wheels left to right by hand, there should be no movement at all!

but more likely it will be your steering wheel, aftermarket wheels seem to cause a few probs with hicas as people dont align the pin properly.

DON'T get your wheels aligned at Bob Janes or Tyre Power etc (just a warning!)...Bob funked my HICAS, the light is on when cold and on when I turn left now :cheers:

Brakes: check the pads...also the distance away from the disc of the front left pad might be greater than the front right....possibly due to being more warn down.

HICAS: meh!, everybody dance now (Baseketball happy dance :D )

  • 5 years later...

Hmmm i have a momo wheel aswell i dunno what boss hit it have either i thinks its also momo so i dunno if my hicas is stuffing up i never see light on only when i start the car and then it switches off but i am also getting a scraping when i 1st start out driving the car when cold and a lump lump lump like i am running over golf balls but only with right hand rear wheel i check tyre seems good and when i get abit of speed it seems to go away and i dont feel it till i leave my car and start it again after work.

That sounds far to dangerous to waste money on fixing

Just get a HICAS lock bar. I spent forever trying to avoid doing this cause I had perfectly working HICAS, but it started making the car feel a bit unsteady in the wet so I got rid of it.

HICAS Lock Bar, Wheel Alignment and should be sweet

Hmmm i have a momo wheel aswell i dunno what boss hit it have either i thinks its also momo so i dunno if my hicas is stuffing up i never see light on only when i start the car and then it switches off but i am also getting a scraping when i 1st start out driving the car when cold and a lump lump lump like i am running over golf balls but only with right hand rear wheel i check tyre seems good and when i get abit of speed it seems to go away and i dont feel it till i leave my car and start it again after work.

I have this same problem only the lump sound is on the front passenger side. The car still handles wonderfully, just that sound worries me. I'll probably take a look later in the week when I install my brake pads.

Doesn't sound like a HICAS problem to me, HYBRID VL - especially if the HICAS light isn't coming/staying on

Go see a wheel/suspension place and get stuff checked out. Could be anything like worn suspension bushes - best to get it checked out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...