Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry for digging up an old topic,

Looking at buying a set of 17x9+24 with 215/45r17 tyres for my my series 2 auto.


From having a read through I'm sure the fronts will fit fine and rears may need the guards rolled/lipped?

Thanks

Sorry for digging up an old topic,

Looking at buying a set of 17x9+24 with 215/45r17 tyres for my my series 2 auto.

From having a read through I'm sure the fronts will fit fine and rears may need the guards rolled/lipped?

Thanks

They should fit fine, but you should roll your guards anyway. 215s are a bit narrow for a 9" aren't they? (Personally, I'm not a fan of the stretched tyre look.)

Hey guys. Anyone know how I would go for fitment on a c34 rs4s stock suspension. With a 18x9 +12 with 265/35s

These should fit fine too, the RS4S has a narrower rear track than the factory auto. Once again, as per above, roll those guards - 265s might be cutting it really close. I've got 245s on 18x8+30s and there's only about 5mm room.

  • 2 weeks later...

So I have some 350Z rims fitted to the series 2 auto Stagea - fits well except the front track is narrower than the rear causing terrible road handling - hoping that fitting some 20mm bolt on spacers to the front may help - any oninions? Here are the specs -

Fronts - 18 x 8 +30 running 245/40/18

Rears - 18 x 8.5 +33 running 245/40/18

post-72216-0-86880000-1374208682_thumb.jpg

Here's another person asking for answers!

My incoming m35 has a set of Venerdi 19" 5 spoke chromes on it that I WILL NOT be keeping. (read.. for sale!)

there's so much variation in preferences and all that for tyres and wheel size, offset, width etc.... all I want to know is...

What wheels do I get so that they fit with NO modification.
they will likely be:


19" x width<?> offset <?>

currently wearing 245/40x19"

HALP!

Here's another person asking for answers!

My incoming m35 has a set of Venerdi 19" 5 spoke chromes on it that I WILL NOT be keeping. (read.. for sale!)

there's so much variation in preferences and all that for tyres and wheel size, offset, width etc.... all I want to know is...

What wheels do I get so that they fit with NO modification.

they will likely be:

19" x width<?> offset <?>

currently wearing 245/40x19"

HALP!

19x9 +30 offset would go on no mods; 19x9.5 +22 offset would require light guard lip rolling.

And look 5000 times cooler.

Cheers Daleo, um.. i'm a massive noob.. WTF is guard rolling? is it like flaring the original guard instead of bolt-on (like axis etc)?

Is the max width without rolling, 9?
Seems like there's much less 9 than 9.5 out there. Wish I understood the offset mumbo a little better to make a good call.

I'm thinking about some of these... Haven't got much cash to splash on wheels and tyres.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rota-GRID-19-x-9-0-20-5x114-3-/150664390583?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23144c27b7

Edited by Kazal

Ok I've just read this entire thread and I'm probably more confused than when I first started...

I have a manual RS4S (series 2) with BC coilovers. At the moment I have Enkei NT03M 18 x 9.5 +27 (with 15mm spacers in the rear; so +12) Tyres are 235 45...AND I still scrub on the coilover in the rear. Going straight is fine, it's mainly bumps, hard corners and heavy offloading onto the back (front is fine)

SSOOO...I'm look at getting some new wheels. 18 x 10, what are people's opinions on offset to sit at least flush with the guard?

Just looking at opinions as I have found a couple of pretty low offset wheels...

Thanks for any help in advance!

- stix

Cheers Daleo, um.. i'm a massive noob.. WTF is guard rolling? is it like flaring the original guard instead of bolt-on (like axis etc)?

Is the max width without rolling, 9?

Seems like there's much less 9 than 9.5 out there. Wish I understood the offset mumbo a little better to make a good call.

I'm thinking about some of these... Haven't got much cash to splash on wheels and tyres.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rota-GRID-19-x-9-0-20-5x114-3-/150664390583?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23144c27b7

Type 'Rota failure' into Google for me, this is why I generally prefer OEM or forged rims. They will probably be fine though, and the size is about right.

I ran 9 inch + 30 17's without issue, yours would stick out a little at the front as they are 10mm further out.

To get the wheel to clear you may have to roll the guards, which involves using a machine bolted to the hub to roll the lip in and push the guard out a little, especially at the top. You need to heat the paint at the same time or it can crack easily. It's not something many people are willing to do themselves, best off getting some quotes from a professional.

Haha Scotty, I have seen all that, there's about 5 images.. and then 50x12,000 copies of the same ones.

As I understand it, Rota make about 1/3 of the OEM wheels in the market anyway....... So.. interesting that you would say you prefer OEM (I believe ENKEI are responsible for much of the OEM market also).

In other news, what about the Varrstoen wheels?
This car is a daily and being held for eventual resale value mostly. It will probably not ever see a track so I'm not chasing performance wheels, just a pretty fit.

So I have some 350Z rims fitted to the series 2 auto Stagea - fits well except the front track is narrower than the rear causing terrible road handling - hoping that fitting some 20mm bolt on spacers to the front may help - any oninions? Here are the specs -

Fronts - 18 x 8 +30 running 245/40/18

Rears - 18 x 8.5 +33 running 245/40/18

i would swap them the other way! your stagea will loose front grip before it looses rear and in favor of wider rear track on stagea

Haha Scotty, I have seen all that, there's about 5 images.. and then 50x12,000 copies of the same ones.

As I understand it, Rota make about 1/3 of the OEM wheels in the market anyway....... So.. interesting that you would say you prefer OEM (I believe ENKEI are responsible for much of the OEM market also).

In other news, what about the Varrstoen wheels?

This car is a daily and being held for eventual resale value mostly. It will probably not ever see a track so I'm not chasing performance wheels, just a pretty fit.

Everything I've heard about them, they appear to be good quality, very well finished, and stand up to trackwork pretty well.

For a copy of someone elses intellectual property. I'd go for them over Rota's to be honest.

Several Stagea owners have them fitted; maybe check the thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/325613-m35s-wheels-what-wheels-do-you-like-on-your-m35/

The search function is quite useful. ;)

BMW owners seem to be wary of Varrstoens, can't comment on the quality myself though. I suspect that like any other "replica" wheel people will have had good and bad experiences. Yer pays yer money and takes yer chances.

Edited by Hertz Donut

So, you guys are saying that any wheels that cost less than about $2k a set are all just copies, and the quality is (potentially) questionable? Sheehs!

Now I REALLY wish my Stag had OEM's on it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • BRUH, one of the biggest mistakes of my life..... and i've had plenty ;[)
×
×
  • Create New...