Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im going 235/40 tires, i really didnt want to go spacers, i really didnt.

hoping i take some caber away and run about -1deg and it wont touch under load.

under load now it gains f**king heaps of camber with the stock arms

im so confused, noone with an RS4S with 18X9.5 +12 has had this little clearance. why mine?

i.e.

the issue is that you are looking at an example of a car with stock pogo sticks.

therefore in that example:

- the height is standard, meaning next to no negative camber = more clearance

- standard struts are skinnier than the threaded versions of height adjustable coilovers = more clearance

pete used to run 18x9.5+12 on his rs4-s but had 5mm spacers behind them to reduce the amount of time the inner lip spent hobnobbing the struts

Be interesting to see where they sit on the rears on the out side all spaced out. I will be fun fitting my 10+15 on was hoping to tun a with 10mm spacer .i don't mind running camber so hopefully squeez them in ;)

should be able to tuck them, ill post the clearance with the camber arms and tires so i can load them up properly.

this is what my other wheel did scraping the strut

IMAG2108_zps688f7302.jpg

9.5 does have some width to it though :D

IMAG2117_zpsd5bf6931.jpg

Be interesting to see where they sit on the rears on the out side all spaced out. I will be fun fitting my 10+15 on was hoping to tun a with 10mm spacer .i don't mind running camber so hopefully squeez them in ;)

you should be apples, Jase.

my old setup was very similar with the narrower cradle (I was running 18x9.5+0 with a 235/40 and -0.5 degree camber). you won't be wanting any camber with the numbers you'll be trying to feed through the tyres haha

100_1413plateless.jpg

100_1393.jpg

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

RS-Four autos (whether s1 or s2, it doesn't matter) have a wider rear subframe than factory manuals, so it'd be a tight fit without a fair bit of camber. I've had 18x9.5 +15s on mine as a trial fitment and the rears stuck out around 15mm.

  • 1 month later...

Looking at some 19x8.5 +28 fronts and some 19x9.5 +42. Will these fit? And what tyre recommendations do people have. Not fussed if I have to run a spacer just need to know what size?? Going on a rs4s

Edited by Steve.b

Looking at some 19x8.5 +28 fronts and some 19x9.5 +42. Will these fit? And what tyre recommendations do people have. Not fussed if I have to run a spacer just need to know what size?? Going on a rs4s

=42 will require 25mm spacers at least to clear your suspension. Personally I was very happy with my 17 x 9 on my lowered suspension - meant I could have some decent tyres (255 40). I have gone to 18s to try to get a little taller gearing but if you run 19s you will have very thin (30 aspect) tyres which are not very street friendly.

Pic shows 17 x 9s (subsequently lowered the front one more circlip groove

Second pic shows a set of Nissan 18s (which I reckon are plenty big enough)I trialled before I got my current CE28Ns:

002-4.jpg[/url]

2014-02-02181000_zpsf6f87731.jpg

These wheels were to nice to let up. So I need to figure out what I need to fit them. Happy with a bit of stretch look. And I don't mind buying hubcentric spacers. Just need advice on what size spacers and what size tires to keep the rolling diameter close? Help appreciated.

If you have bought these wheels you are going to have to do some work because I doubt anyone has the same combination of diameter, widths and offset to be able to tell you exactly what you need.

What I can tell you is that getting the same rolling diameter front and rear (I assume you have the Atessa awd) is the hard part - never mind your speedo - that's not that important.

In order to achieve that you will need staggered fitment e.g.

Nitto Invo (which I am using as an example as I have just put some on my car) front 225 35 19 rear 265 30 19. With the spacers needed to clear your suspension the rears at least will not fit in your guards so you will have to undertake some serious modification.

Just read through all pages of this thread over two days.. a lot of the same info.. im after the same set of wheels as someone else has posted on here.. rota grids 19x9.5 +20 (http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=130578005418&alt=web) with 235/35 tires. For a 2000rs4s According to this: http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=215&aspect=50&diameter=17&wheelwidth=7&offset=30&width2=235&aspect2=35&diameter2=19&wheelwidth2=9.5&offset2=20#content

They are 22mm closer to the strut and 42mm more poke than the stock rs4s 17s with the same rolling radius. I dont mind using a small spacer on the rear but would like to keep the front spacer free at least. Preferably want the front and back flush to the guards.. maybe a little poke. Does this seem like a fairly safe bet? Im reading it will just want to be as sure as I can. No suspension mods yet but will be getting bc br coilovers at some point. Seems like (with most things) itll work with some and not others and is more of a trial and error type thing.. Maybe someone in the marion area in adelaide will let me trial fit their wheels? (Pm me if you can). Cheers guys

Edited by c34Florry

Post a car you would like it to looks like. Offset is turning into one of those subjective things. People with scribbley tats and ear vaginas think scraping the road with their subframe and pulling their arches out is mad cool.

While the others with a wife, three kids and a mortgage, living the dream.... might want some more practicality, but still have a decent looking car.

Realistically.

Somewhere between +18 to +30, depending on how much tyre you want to put on them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera iam just considering options 🙂 of course it is very expensive so that why i ask here 🙂  @joshuaho96 I looked at that GCG hybrid(i remember looking at it few weeks before) So this is "that" hybrid where i send them my turbo and they upgrade the inside to Garrett stuff and then they send it back. It cost around 1200-1300 USD which is FAR cheaper than the HKS and it is what iam looking for(i just do not have experience like this...to send something off to "upgrade" ) @tylink720 that is like 150 USD turbo no? 😄 I dont think i have the "ease on my mind" with this kind of turbo. I just put over 7000k USD to "LINK" up my engine...dont want to blow it up with cheap turbo 😄     EDIT: https://www.cj-motor.com/gcg-turbo-charger-for-nissan-rb20det-rb25det-high?srsltid=AfmBOooVeOZ6CZ6r1AIv5m-KPaa6BvudIPJTY8LW78khkd-gQlsaCht9 I looked at this and it seems ok? It is that CGC hybrid and it costs around 1250 USD (with back shipping). Do any of you have experience with this hybrid on NEO turbo? I quickly look thru the forum/web and it seems very good.
    • Echo the awesome sentiment 👍 Definitely a car worth saving. Looking forward to seeing updates as well. 
    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
×
×
  • Create New...