Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im going 235/40 tires, i really didnt want to go spacers, i really didnt.

hoping i take some caber away and run about -1deg and it wont touch under load.

under load now it gains f**king heaps of camber with the stock arms

im so confused, noone with an RS4S with 18X9.5 +12 has had this little clearance. why mine?

i.e.

the issue is that you are looking at an example of a car with stock pogo sticks.

therefore in that example:

- the height is standard, meaning next to no negative camber = more clearance

- standard struts are skinnier than the threaded versions of height adjustable coilovers = more clearance

pete used to run 18x9.5+12 on his rs4-s but had 5mm spacers behind them to reduce the amount of time the inner lip spent hobnobbing the struts

Be interesting to see where they sit on the rears on the out side all spaced out. I will be fun fitting my 10+15 on was hoping to tun a with 10mm spacer .i don't mind running camber so hopefully squeez them in ;)

should be able to tuck them, ill post the clearance with the camber arms and tires so i can load them up properly.

this is what my other wheel did scraping the strut

IMAG2108_zps688f7302.jpg

9.5 does have some width to it though :D

IMAG2117_zpsd5bf6931.jpg

Be interesting to see where they sit on the rears on the out side all spaced out. I will be fun fitting my 10+15 on was hoping to tun a with 10mm spacer .i don't mind running camber so hopefully squeez them in ;)

you should be apples, Jase.

my old setup was very similar with the narrower cradle (I was running 18x9.5+0 with a 235/40 and -0.5 degree camber). you won't be wanting any camber with the numbers you'll be trying to feed through the tyres haha

100_1413plateless.jpg

100_1393.jpg

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

RS-Four autos (whether s1 or s2, it doesn't matter) have a wider rear subframe than factory manuals, so it'd be a tight fit without a fair bit of camber. I've had 18x9.5 +15s on mine as a trial fitment and the rears stuck out around 15mm.

  • 1 month later...

Looking at some 19x8.5 +28 fronts and some 19x9.5 +42. Will these fit? And what tyre recommendations do people have. Not fussed if I have to run a spacer just need to know what size?? Going on a rs4s

Edited by Steve.b

Looking at some 19x8.5 +28 fronts and some 19x9.5 +42. Will these fit? And what tyre recommendations do people have. Not fussed if I have to run a spacer just need to know what size?? Going on a rs4s

=42 will require 25mm spacers at least to clear your suspension. Personally I was very happy with my 17 x 9 on my lowered suspension - meant I could have some decent tyres (255 40). I have gone to 18s to try to get a little taller gearing but if you run 19s you will have very thin (30 aspect) tyres which are not very street friendly.

Pic shows 17 x 9s (subsequently lowered the front one more circlip groove

Second pic shows a set of Nissan 18s (which I reckon are plenty big enough)I trialled before I got my current CE28Ns:

002-4.jpg[/url]

2014-02-02181000_zpsf6f87731.jpg

These wheels were to nice to let up. So I need to figure out what I need to fit them. Happy with a bit of stretch look. And I don't mind buying hubcentric spacers. Just need advice on what size spacers and what size tires to keep the rolling diameter close? Help appreciated.

If you have bought these wheels you are going to have to do some work because I doubt anyone has the same combination of diameter, widths and offset to be able to tell you exactly what you need.

What I can tell you is that getting the same rolling diameter front and rear (I assume you have the Atessa awd) is the hard part - never mind your speedo - that's not that important.

In order to achieve that you will need staggered fitment e.g.

Nitto Invo (which I am using as an example as I have just put some on my car) front 225 35 19 rear 265 30 19. With the spacers needed to clear your suspension the rears at least will not fit in your guards so you will have to undertake some serious modification.

Just read through all pages of this thread over two days.. a lot of the same info.. im after the same set of wheels as someone else has posted on here.. rota grids 19x9.5 +20 (http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=130578005418&alt=web) with 235/35 tires. For a 2000rs4s According to this: http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=215&aspect=50&diameter=17&wheelwidth=7&offset=30&width2=235&aspect2=35&diameter2=19&wheelwidth2=9.5&offset2=20#content

They are 22mm closer to the strut and 42mm more poke than the stock rs4s 17s with the same rolling radius. I dont mind using a small spacer on the rear but would like to keep the front spacer free at least. Preferably want the front and back flush to the guards.. maybe a little poke. Does this seem like a fairly safe bet? Im reading it will just want to be as sure as I can. No suspension mods yet but will be getting bc br coilovers at some point. Seems like (with most things) itll work with some and not others and is more of a trial and error type thing.. Maybe someone in the marion area in adelaide will let me trial fit their wheels? (Pm me if you can). Cheers guys

Edited by c34Florry

Post a car you would like it to looks like. Offset is turning into one of those subjective things. People with scribbley tats and ear vaginas think scraping the road with their subframe and pulling their arches out is mad cool.

While the others with a wife, three kids and a mortgage, living the dream.... might want some more practicality, but still have a decent looking car.

Realistically.

Somewhere between +18 to +30, depending on how much tyre you want to put on them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...