Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok heres the car ready to be tuned finally after 8 months of problems and setbacks :P

tuning is this thursday as mentioned, unless something goes wrong in the meantime :) no power figures for atleast 2-3 weeks as it will be getting run in.

couple of pics with everything on, and my old man (the fabricator, hehe) made a turbo heat shield for the exhuast housing for about $10, after finding out the hks ones are $270 and gcg want $180 for a plain one. didnt come up too bad in the end :)

111_1130.jpg

111_1129.jpg

111_1127.jpg

111_1157.jpg

enjoy, finally i get to rest for a while if all goes well :)

  • Replies 315
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Good luck for thursday, I'm sure all will go well. Just out of curiosity, are you running a surge tank or in tank fuel pump set up?

OK, just read the 1st page. Nice set up, no problems with fuel starvation that's for sure.

Edited by yug_r34

I think that it takes a bit of good old Aussie ingenuity to undertake a project like this. Well done. Hopefully everything hangs together well, and you finally get some fun out of the Stag!

Sometimes i really wonder why you didnt buy a 260RS ?

Then it would have a standard RB26 in it.

And the engine is has now is FAR from standard.

Plus the fun/satisfaction factor

Sometimes it all about the journey, not the destination.

:whistling: cheers :stupid:

Then it would have a standard RB26 in it.

And the engine is has now is FAR from standard.

Plus the fun/satisfaction factor

Sometimes it all about the journey, not the destination.

:whistling: cheers :stupid:

Gary

I just meant, having a 260RS wouldve saved a lot of hassles having to buy an rb26 in the first place. The original unit could have been rebuilt, and there would have been less hassles with changing diffs, gearbox, etc. Even the chassis would be slightly stiffer on the autech.

But then again, the price of the 260RS would be 3-4 times that of the stagea :D

At the end of the day, this is looking great

Gary

I just meant, having a 260RS wouldve saved a lot of hassles having to buy an rb26 in the first place. The original unit could have been rebuilt, and there would have been less hassles with changing diffs, gearbox, etc. Even the chassis would be slightly stiffer on the autech.

But then again, the price of the 260RS would be 3-4 times that of the stagea :whistling:

At the end of the day, this is looking great

Didnt he already have the RB26 from his VL?
Correct.

Lovely, just to say good luck with the mapping and the run in period. my only concern is heat, I'd definitely get a turbo blanket on it, I have had a LOT of heat issues even WITH a blanket and wrapped downpipe on my single Apexi turbo RB25 in a track car, to the extent I really need a new engine loom. The heat, on track, is simply immense, as is the heat retention when stopped. It beggars belief how much radiation there is off the manifold and exhaust housing, wastegate and plumbing.

hey guys thanks for all the support and nice comments :D

firstly i didnt buy a 260rs cause their wasnt any on offer in november 2004 when i actually bought this thing (and have only done 900km in it since :cool: ). series 1's were as good as it gets, and plus as mentioned i had the rb26 from my previous car (VL calais). The vl was a nice car and spotless but all the electrics and interior were crap so i needed a daily ride instead with comfort yet still a sleeper as i was always paranoid about parking the vl at shops/dodgy areas because of thieves and jeleous idiots. i spent 3 years on the vl project with plenty of time spent finding info on the conversion as no one in perth knew what an rb26 even was back then (over 5 years ago now). so i sorted it and managed a dyno figure of 350rwhp on 17psi, only revving to 7200rpm or so to save the motor (unknown condition and unknown km's) and ran a 12.0 at 118mph on its 3rd pass and snapped the tailshaft uni joint and bent a diff arm cause of the 10" slicks getting lotsa traction :D

so i was sick of smashing driveline bits (broke a tailshaft uni on a previous drag meet aswell), so i needed something that wouldnt be a handful on the street and drivable in the wet, which the vl was like a car on ice for traction. so my choices were gtr 32 which was tooo old and dating interior wise, or a stagea, and so the late 96 stagea was a perfect choice, dual sunroofs, full electrics, spotless cond, etc and for 18k i was lovin it :) people dont associate the stageas with skylines because the taillights look different meaning no cop hassles and potential theives think its a done up volvo :) so the stageas rb25 went in the vl and sold it and the 26 went in the stagea :)

so in the end i woulda saved money buying a 260rs str8 up but i did have highflow turbos/autronics, etc in the costs so it was fairly modified. gtr diff has been added after snapping a stagea rear axle in half from a rolling start coming on boost, so lets just see how the rest of the driveline hold up now :

heres a few pics of the vl and the fully detailed engine bay with everything removed pretty much so it looks 100 times better than the stagea bay, plus i filled in all the unused holes and repainted it.

vl26baypic.jpg

topshotvl.jpg

sorry for the long post :P

Looks very very nice

You do make me jealous. Even that vl looks a piece of art, particularly the engine bay :D

Now hurry up and get it tuned !!!! :P

cheers tommyk

swap ya for the r34 gtr anyday :cool: ill keep my motor though :)

this is a better engine bay pic, nice and empty :D

bay2.jpg

Edited by CruiseLiner
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...