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M35 Perf Parts From V35/36 Z33/34


rickskylinebnr32gtrjp
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$1500-$2000?? we pay less then that landed in australia buying out of japan brand new. I am sure if you look around you will be find a second hand one.

I must have confused that with a different exhaust system. Yeah, I found the Nismo for US$750 here in Japan. Not bad at all. I may go that route a bit later.

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If you are considering HFC and headers, then don't bother with coupe midpipe. Just get yourself a proper exhaust.

As Josh said, that later nismo exhaust should be picked up on YAJ, and it's easily the quietest performance style exhaust. The earlier nismo was louder, and only made for a couple of years.

I have a kinetix on my car, and honestly it's pretty loud for an intake. It really drones at some rpm. Sounds and works ok, but the intake it almost as loud as the exhaust!

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As much as I would like to do a CAI, it just rains too much here in Okinawa. It's very tropical and we have typhoons that dump a couple feet of water on us in one day at times. I don't need the filter getting wet and hydrolocking the engine.

What's the deal with the R2C filter? I know it's not oiled. Does it perform that much better than the oiled ones (K&N, JWT, etc.)? Will an R2C filter fit inside a Stillen box?

I live in an area that is dusty in summer and bloody wet in winter (lots of unavoidable deep standing water on the local highway) and I do not like oiled filters which is why I went with the R2C (after a LOT of research into filter medium and design).

It performs better than the Nismo filter and the K&N intake that came with the car from Japan, I also get slightly better fuel economy with it.

My intake gets no dirt in it during summer and I have never had an issue with hydrolocking- nor do I expect to.

The Nismo intake comes with a secondary foam filter that sits in the engine bay but is much more restrictive than the lower filter section.

Theory behind the design is that if the lower filter were to become submerged or coated in mud etc, there would then be less resistance from the secondary filter which would become the primary.

I don't know if R2C have a replacement for the Stillen box, best to ask them. They do have a number of replacements specifically for other manufacturer's intakes - they asked which intake I have and recommended a filter (although it is a tight fit). I have recently fitted one of their dust boots to it as cleaning them can be a bit of a pain.

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Easily dropped 30lbs off the car by switching from the stock large resonator mid-pipe to the coupe mid-pipe. The exhaust has a slightly deeper tone to it so there's probably a little better flow. The front part of the piping rests against the tunnel support (driveshaft catch bar). Planning on hammering that bar up just a tad to provide the needed clearance in order to cut down on the vibration and noise experienced with the exhaust touching the body of the car.

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I live in an area that is dusty in summer and bloody wet in winter (lots of unavoidable deep standing water on the local highway) and I do not like oiled filters which is why I went with the R2C (after a LOT of research into filter medium and design).

It performs better than the Nismo filter and the K&N intake that came with the car from Japan, I also get slightly better fuel economy with it.

My intake gets no dirt in it during summer and I have never had an issue with hydrolocking- nor do I expect to.

The Nismo intake comes with a secondary foam filter that sits in the engine bay but is much more restrictive than the lower filter section.

Theory behind the design is that if the lower filter were to become submerged or coated in mud etc, there would then be less resistance from the secondary filter which would become the primary.

I don't know if R2C have a replacement for the Stillen box, best to ask them. They do have a number of replacements specifically for other manufacturer's intakes - they asked which intake I have and recommended a filter (although it is a tight fit). I have recently fitted one of their dust boots to it as cleaning them can be a bit of a pain.

Which size R2C filter fits the Nismo CAI? I may go that route. Do you have a photo or details on the dust boot?

The new Black Hex R2C filters are located at this link (http://www.r2cperformance.com/conical-filters---turbo--street-and-drag-.aspx) if you can see what yours measures, I can order one of these.

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Which size R2C filter fits the Nismo CAI? I may go that route. Do you have a photo or details on the dust boot?

The new Black Hex R2C filters are located at this link (http://www.r2cperformance.com/conical-filters---turbo--street-and-drag-.aspx) if you can see what yours measures, I can order one of these.

Mmm, the fact that they state "Not for dirt racing applications" on their website indicates to me they get their higher flow rate by reducing filtration. Maybe that's what the dust boot is all about, IDK, but I wonder if you would lose all of the "40% less restriction" with it on.

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The stock airbox flows 4 times what you will ever ask of it, and does a great job of filtering the cold air from it's induction. ;)

Wow, the stock airbox will flow over 1000hp? LOL. Sorry, I had to go there and I hope that was an exaggeration. Just to get an idea of where I'm coming from, I have a 900hp GTR that has a 5 1/2 inch inlet for my Bullseye (Borg Warner frame) S375R turbo with a 9-inch funnel that I don't use a filter with at all. Would you call that overkill or should I have left my stock airbox in there too and just necked down the intake to match up?

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Which size R2C filter fits the Nismo CAI? I may go that route. Do you have a photo or details on the dust boot?

The new Black Hex R2C filters are located at this link (http://www.r2cperformance.com/conical-filters---turbo--street-and-drag-.aspx) if you can see what yours measures, I can order one of these.

Filter that I purchased is the #CO10511.

The dust "pre-filter" is basically a mesh style material that has an elastic ring on the end with the opening. It is a damn tight fit and certainly would not filter anywhere near as well as the R2C itself, but will stop bugs and very small stones getting stuck between the wire outer and the filter medium.

The dust boot pre-filter part number for the CO10511 (not the moisture resistant one) is the R2C0210A30 and is a very snug fit

Mmm, the fact that they state "Not for dirt racing applications" on their website indicates to me they get their higher flow rate by reducing filtration. Maybe that's what the dust boot is all about, IDK, but I wonder if you would lose all of the "40% less restriction" with it on.

By "dirt racing" they are talking sprint cars. Putting a dust boot on it just means waaaaaaaay less stuffing around cleaning.

I put a dust boot on mine as I seem to have the innate ability to trap flies under the honeycomb cage around the filter medium and is a right PITA to get rid of them.

I have a K&N pod that came with my car. Held it up to the light so I could see the pattern of the filter medium by the light passing through the gaps. A fly wire door springs to mind. Pretty generic actually and is the same pattern as the Nismo filter that came on my CAI.

There were no noticeable light holes when I did the same thing with the R2C.

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The stock airbox flows 4 times what you will ever ask of it, and does a great job of filtering the cold air from it's induction. ;)

R2C don't make replacement panel filters - so no choice - and I reckon that my Nismo intake grabs cold enough air.

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Wow, the stock airbox will flow over 1000hp? LOL. Sorry, I had to go there and I hope that was an exaggeration. Just to get an idea of where I'm coming from, I have a 900hp GTR that has a 5 1/2 inch inlet for my Bullseye (Borg Warner frame) S375R turbo with a 9-inch funnel that I don't use a filter with at all. Would you call that overkill or should I have left my stock airbox in there too and just necked down the intake to match up?

Your call, but that wasn't an exaggeration. I have seen 500kw at the wheels with the same panel filter in a stock GTR airbox, stock piping, and you won't be getting anywhere near that with a direct injected 3L.

No filter? Why not. Go for it.

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Okay, while I was under the car after installing the coupe mid-pipe, I took a look around and noticed that my driver side lower arm inner sleeve bushing was shot and the arm was pushed all the way forward (about 20-30mm). Also, noticed ball joints on both sides were split with grease leaking out. I need to take care of this fairly soon.

Has anyone done a polyurethane bushing set upgrade to their Stagea's? I know the suspensions are very similar with the Z's and Skyline's so would a full Energy Suspension poly kit work?

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Failure of the lower inner arm bushes is quite common, and yes; any Z33 or V35 bushing kit will be suitable.

Ball joints I'm not 100% on; some say yes, some say no.

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Depending on the design, some poly bushes creak badly. I only use Superpro these days, although I have never tried the Full Energy gear.

350z or V35 ball joints fit fine, but need to be pressed out. It isn't a diy job that's for sure.

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The SuperPro are a really nice duro (hardness) and the internal knurling holds grease very nicely.

The new style Whiteline bushes are also a n excellent duro for NVH and isolation.They are also black, so they don't stand out as modified.

The bearing surfaces are also impregnated with PTFE fibres; which requires no ongoing maintenance, and requires no greasing.

At all. Ever.

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