inmaniac

For plugs put in NGK BCPR6ES (whichever gap you get, gap to 0.8mm) For the oil light, could just be a sensor. For your stall, check AAC valve as mentioned. Also check lines near the brake booster for leaks. Highly doubt you've got genuine kms on that car. I'm at 235,000 and don't have any of those kinds of issues (could have just had different lives). I would definitely be doing a major service at this stage for a car with symptoms you're describing. Also, as mentioned, you want your car perfect before modding. Water pump, belts, do the works.

Lightweight Shockproof advocate here.

I don't wanna spam this guy's thread but my understanding has always been that you want the trigger for the fuel pump relay to come from the FPCM - that way in any event where the fuel pump would normally shut off it still will? Taken from the OG fuel pump rewire thread:

Well good luck! Don't come crying here when your $2 parts break Skyline ownership comes with some inherent costs but hey like I said, some people have made the cheap stuff work, hope you're one of them! Don't up the boost with these issues you have. Your car should be mechanically sound before thinking about any mods (including upping boost). As for links, use the search bar on the website, top-right. I ain't doing your work for you bud! You'll find everything by a quick search. I'm just here to give some advice from experience...

If you CBF doing your research, just do this: "Stage 1" - Basics Turbo-Back exhaust - If you don't have one already, you can get one custom made in mild steel or get one off the shelf for around $800-$1200 for something decent. Intake - Debatable that you need this, a good panel filter will get you out of trouble, but if you're chasing power later replace your intake for a solid item. $250. Intercooler - HDI is the cheapest you should go, even then you might want to consider better. $600. Boost controller - A decent electronic unit. GFB G-Force II can be had for $300. "Stage 2" - Can be done without ECU/Tune (not always best) Fuel Pump - Either go a Walbro 255 or 450 drop-in pump. I suggest the 450 to give you some room (I wish I did this ergh). Don't forget relay mod. $200-$250, Turbo - Lots of choices, most suggest a Hypergear high flow for a drop-in replacement. That's around $1000. Or get their ATR replacement turbo for $1200. Keep boost < 10psi at this stage with these turbos. "Stage 3" - ECU and Tune needed ECU - Nistune is a cost-effective solution. Get yourself an RB20DET Manual ECU, get yourself a Nistune board with feature pack, go get it tuned. Guessing $1000-$1200 all up. Injectors - Nismo 740s are a good drop-in replacement, but most would suggest going a top-feed setup for cheaper parts and more choices. Both are $1000-$1200. AFM - Get a genuine Z32 AFM. There are other choices but this is tried and true. $300ish. Splitfires - Not always needed but generally recommended at this level. $500. "Stage 3.5" - E85 As part of "Stage 3" mods. get an ethanol flex sensor and tune everything for E85. $290 for sensor and harness. If you did all of this it would cost you around $6-7k or $4-5k if you already have the basics and will net you 250rwkw on P98 or 300rwkw on E85. Nowhere was a throttle body mentioned (because you don't need one). This is a good list to go by, but keep in mind other things you may need along the way. A good example is a fuel pressure reg, that might be needed by Stage 3. Do not attempt any of this unless your car is in tip-top shape and is well serviced. Although not gospel. this list is proven time and time again. Follow it for proven results with less headache (and heartache) in the future.

Hi OP. My build threads (and many other threads) are testament to buying quality parts with a history of reliability. Therefore you should steer clear of those unknown brands and go with either Splitfires or genuine coilpacks, especially if you're chasing more power in the future. As they say, do it right the first time or do it twice (once when you cheap out, the second time when the cheap stuff fails). Trust me, I've been there.... Are you even sure you need to replace them? OEM will be better than Amazon/ebay specials... Looking at your list of links, you're going for cheap everything... Some people have made that work, however, the vast majority have problems at every turn. Please, for your own sake, do your research before dropping your money on (no offence) sh1t products that you're just going to have to replace anyway.

Did you get that wastegate working? Hope you weren't over-boosting! White smoke generally means coolant/water being mixed in with combustion. You should be able to notice it though... Take off your radiator cap and start your car - if you notice continuous small bubbles you have a problem. If you don't see discoloration of your oil and no bubbles, perhaps you've done something only to the turbo. Does it still make boost? Any chattering/grinding sounds?

....why.....why do all this if you're getting a new motor? I'm sure you're a good bloke mate but you've got rocks in your head. If you want to waste money like that can I please have some? I've got a long list for my car!

Ouch on the bill... But credit to you following through/ I still wouldn't suggest it to anybody. What makes you suspect coil packs? I mean they sound dodgy but nothing wrong with the curve.. The power also sounds right for a de+t. What boost is that? Running E85?

Anyone going to this?

Errr, are you talking about the PCV valve? You shouldn't have to do anything with that valve unless it is damaged or leaking. I think you need to clarify what you're actually trying to do mate. If you're servicing the car, generally speaking you don't touch the PCV valve or breather system, unless there's a fault as I mentioned. As for servicing itself, there are dozens of threads on this site. Use the search bar "R33 service". I suggest doing research before touching anything. Good luck.

Yeah mate, I'm sure lots of people would be interested in a thread following what you're doing. 100% - fix your problems first. I'm sure I don't have to tell you that modifications, especially for power, just put more stress on your vehicle, so it needs to be in tip-top shape first before planning anything. Whenever I buy a car, I ensure I go through everything I can from tip to tale. If it has an unknown service history (like this one sounds) I'd be considering a major service including all belts, water pump, etc before considering any mods. Lots of work and lots of love required, but it'll be worth it in the end!

You'll be tempted to up the boost, but if you can resist that temptation then no, no issue. The problem you will have is that the G3 comes with an 18psi spring. Additionally, if you go the route I did and ask for an OEM spring, you'll have problems with boost control later and need an aftermarket wastegate (which is what I did). So, you have 2 options here: 1. Get the G3 now and ask for an OEM spring. This gives you reliability for the moment, but means you'll need $100-$150 for an aftermarket wastegate later. 2. Wait until you have the other supporting mods, then get the G3 with the 18psi spring. If I was you, I'd wait. I suggest reading my build thread (linked in sig) about why you should do things right and be patient. It's worth it in the end mate.

Do NOT go the G2. Waste of time and money. Get the G3. I've got it, responsiveness is still great with minimal mods and you've got a higher boost limit.

Good to hear mate. Make sure you post up some more pictures of the car!

I had a leak from the same spot in my old car - replaced the crush washers and it was all sorted.

Thanks for the extra info and advice guys. I reckon I'll track it 4-5 times a year tops. With that in mind would Blues do or should I ensure I go straight to the X range? It's my daily, and I travel along Parramatta Rd regularly, so although I want performance I do need a middle ground. Blues sounds good?

Thanks for the feedback guys. Don't get me wrong, this isn't like a preferred route or anything, and I had all intention of avoiding if I didn't receive anything positive here. Seems like MCA Blue's would be the way to go for a relatively budget option. I've looked into them and they seem to be the goods.

Oh mate, if my entire build thread is anything to go by, I've learnt this lesson haha. I was questioning whether to even start this thread, but given I can't see anything but positive reviews even after speaking to an owner of these coils on Facebook, I had to ask

Anyone Used T&R Coilovers? Hey bros and broettes. Has anyone used T&R coilovers before? Seem to be a local distributor re-branding another imported coilover but I'm unsure? They seem reasonably priced at $1200 delivered. If anyone has used them or has any feedback please do drop here, cheers. https://www.facebook.com/TandRautostyling/

I realllly wanna go to this as my already booked track day (was gonna be my first) got cancelled. So tempting. Wonder if I could chuck a sickie ?

A few bits of 3" pipe and some silicon joins will get you out of trouble. For bov return and vacuum hose to rocker breathers get a mate or a shop to weld in some nipples/barbs into one of the pipes

I have literally the same mods aside from the 550s (I have 740s) and I got 230rwkw @ 14psi - I would have gone higher but at the time I had a shitty actuator (which is now replaced). Your mods will net you 250rwkw-ish as stated but yes, replace the stock intake pipe for a solid one. Im going E85 in the next few months and all I need is a 460 pump upgrade, flex sensor, fpr for peace of mind and a tune and I should be in the 300 club

W0t. Surely not serious

Should've sold to me when I needed them m9