inmaniac

Bro, Splitfires off-the-shelf price is $549. Just fyi.

Turn off the engine? In all seriousness, get a wideband and check air/fuel ratio.

Dude. You're doing EXACTLY what I did with my old RB25 R32. I'm going to tell you what I had to do, exactly, to get it going. No, this isn't a performance guide, but this is what I did to get running. You are using the exact same shitty ebay turbo I did. 1. You need a silicone 90deg to replace the stock J-pipe. (Done) 2. You need to modify the oil drain. (Done?) 3. I replaced the oil drain gasket, the one that came with the kit didn't fit properly. 4. I had to modify the coolant return by cutting the metal and inserting a piece of hose and then securing it. 5. I had to cut and weld my front pipe as it shifted position with the new turbo. (Looks like you're fine?) 6. What is currently being discussed: You need a 3in > 2in reducer and a 2in pipe so you can clamp to your stock intake. This is not the best method but I ran my car like this for 2 years without issue on 12psi boost. A metal intake is still best. As above, boost is controller can be connected via the blue hose. You've overreacting imho to what is an easy fix for where you're at. I just hope you've put in all the washers we've previously discussed.

Welp, there you go. I always thought that you could still "play it safe" on a bigger turbo by keeping the boost low. I'll stand corrected by those more experienced Glad I got so much time on mine with no tune and thrashing it - I guess I was lucky!

Surely it depends on the amount of boost though right? Yeah, this turbo has more puff, but if he ran it at 10psi or less he ain't doing major damage? Happy to stand corrected. Even if wrong I think this guy has bigger problems lol (he probably hasn't been backing after revealing the shit he's in, poor lad)

Definitely recommended for the health of the car, but I ran my old RB25 R32 with a replacement ebay turbo (almost identical to this) without issue for 2 years. So yeah, recommended yes, but "need", no.

110mph is approx 180kph Sounds like another friend from across the Pacific. Piggyback is a term given to an ECU add-on, a chip or board, that works on top of the already installed ECU. As already mentioned, Nistune is a great example. "An ECU" in this instance would generally refer to a stand-alone ECU, one that completely replaced the originally installed ECU. Neither of these are simple bits that you can just buy as a gift for a birthday, at least in my opinion, as there is lots more to installing an ECU than what it appears on the surface.

Big fan, nice work dude. Get those revs up in the hill climb ;p Let that RB rip!

You replaced the ECU as well? Why? I'd start there. Fuel Pressure Good? Timing right? AFM wired in ok? No damage?

Yes that will work fine mate. Bridge 2 of the channels on the amp to power the sub and job done.

Ok alignment is done and all I can say is WOW what a difference. My rear left toe was -11mm (apparently a lot haha) and it's now been set to -0.5mm After throwing the car through some tight turns on the way home I can't believe what a difference this has all made. I got a cheeky slide going without even meaning to and the car responded so god damn well. I'm so, so stoked with the results. Thansk to everyone who suggested MCA Blues, they seem awesome. Also shout out once again to @Dose Pipe Sutututu for being my Yoda. Once everything settles in I'll report back again.

What GTSBoy said. But if you do it yourself make sure you tape and block it right.

eBay for both your hoses. Get the right stuff. Yes, we're saying you need to physically widen the hole. A boost controller won't do squat as it only controls when the flapper opens. The problem will be that even when fully open it won't bypass enough gas and your boost will creep. There is no workaround for this physical issue. You wont fk up the turbo if you do it right, which involves taking the exhaust housing off the turbo, carefully measuring the material you want to remove and then dremelling it out. A turbo workshop or metal fab place can help you out.

You're 100% correct, but they're the only pics I had on hand (highflow vs ebay) so that's what I used. I had the exact same turbo on my RB25 R32 and it creeped like a b!tch. Anyway OP, as we've both suggested, you need to port the wastegate.

I'm gonna bet 10:1 that your new turbo looked like the first 2 pics here, right? Well compare that wastegate flapper hole size in pic 3 (ebay turbo) to the one in the 4th pic (my Hypergear high flow) You need to port this hole if you have any chance of really using that turbo.

Well that sucks. Maybe a specific hose place is next on your list of places to visit? Mate... Not being a dick, but you're out of your depth and needed to do more research before you dove into this. Firstly, scratching the surface I'm assuming won't be that bad, but depending on how big of a gouge you took, it may not be great and you may have a small leak. You probably used a new gasket hopefully but the ones that come in ebay kits are pretty sh!t. Again, I know. The wastegate is not about the actuator, it is about the size of the flapper and the wastegate hole on those ebay (specifically Maxpeedingrods) turbos. You will NOT be able to control boost with those things as the hole is >tiny< and it can't flow enough air. If you have not ported it (which you clearly haven't) it needs to be done. Do it now while you are still fiddling. Don't complain, don't grumble, you need to do it. This is the bed you've made with an ebay turbo now you have to sleep in it Also, you shouldn't need gasket maker if you're using correct gaskets! If you bought Maxpeedingrods, you bought the cheapest* not nicest looking No shame in that, I've been there, which is why I'm telling you you need to listen to my advice.

If you want to protect it until a tune turn the boost down a couple PSI. That's it.

By the way, I jsut noticed the image you used to describe your bolt issue... If you got a Maxpeedingrods turbo (or other ebay special) pleeeease tell me you ported the wastegate before installing? Otherwise RIP you. Edit: Yeahhhh, I see you had a thread asking for a stock turbo that had no replies, and you're asking about a silicon joiner which means it's not a stock one you're putting in. Thus my sleuthing concludes, based on the inexperienced nature of this thread, that you got an ebay cheapie turbo. Mate, honestly and I hate to break it to you, pull it all out and start again. You now need to port that wastegate if you want any chance at boost control on that kind of turbo. I'm speaking from experience. Ignore at your peril.

Yep. My entire build thread is dedicated to the mistakes of trying to cut corners. You just can't do it with cars (as you're learning now). I can't tell you if it may or will leak, what I can tell you is that the manufacturer put a bolt there for a reason, right? Not to mention as I already said, I personally had a leak, so the gamble is on you but I wouldn't. Since you have the bolt out, why don't you try and go get a lower profile one yourself or, failing that, either sand it down as suggested by GTS Boy orrrr change the adapter for your oil feed? A ratchet spanner, like this, is what I used: I find it hard to believe you went to all of those places and couldn't find some basic oil-resistant hose. It's a low-pressure line, you should be able to find oil-resistant hose in Supercheap, Autobarn, any of those places. Ask an attendant. No, heater hose won't do. I got the same adapter off ebay. If you go to Plazmaman they'll have what you need. You should have taken it to a shop as soon as you said you couldn't jack the damn car up lol - but whatever. Sounds like you'll still have it done *eventually* without the cost of getting a shop to do it. just take the time to fix up those issues you have. You should have offered payment and beers BEFORE starting, but I don't know if anyone would do it without the right tools or being able to jack up (which I still don't understand why??)

VOLK TE37 17inch Staggered Set Hey guys. I've got a staggered set of genuine RAYS VOLK TE37 wheels wrapped in Kumho Ecsta Sport LE all-round. 17x9.5 +32 Front - Kumho Ecsta Sport LE @ 50% 17x10.5 +36 Rear - Kumho Ecsta Sport LE @ 20% Being genuine VOLK forged wheels they are extremely light. No they are not perfect, they have some wheel scrub (pictured) and they definitely need a wash, but they're awesome wheels and the extra width especially in the rear is great for a race application. Fit an R33 GTST slightly lowered with no issues. I've got these listed elsewhere for $1,800 but happy to make a deal with an SAU member. Located 2144/2161 NSW

If you're gonna make a post about YouTube vids how about linking them?

Mate, all of this sounds so god damn dodgy hahaha but hey, good on you for not letting anything hold you back. That said....yeah...not overly confident for you LOL. When replacing my Wastegate I left one of these bolts off and I ended up having a leak. I would NOT suggest leaving any of the compressor bolts removed. Major problem. Yes they will leak. As per your last post, you need 2 x copper crush washer, one for either side of the Banjos. Having only 1 (or none) will still leak. Good on you for getting the engine-side 23mm with a socket. I couldn't do it but then again I was alone. You *can* do it (obviously) but a 23mm ratchet-spanner is God's gift for this job. No one said you couldn't remove the turbo from the top, in fact, everyone does that as the norm. The point we made was doing with without jacking up the car which is a nightmare. Regarding the coolant hose on the bottom (do you mean near the strut?) I don't know why you had to pull off the wheel, it's easily accessible. You also mention philips in the same sentence so I assume you must mean the oil drain, which is on the bottom. That I guess you would get more access by removing the wheel, assuming you aren't jacking up. My only advice here is to ensure you have connected this correctly with a new gasket as it is the most common place for oil leaks when installing a turbo. Summary: I don't think you'll have to take the turbo out again, but yes you still have a bit of work to do. Please do it right for your own sake.

That's strange. Only thing I can think of is wrong size bushings? I chucked sub-frame collars into my R33 yesterday and there was no gap with the stock bushings before putting them in (and of course none after )

Holy over a month since an update. I've been slack. Well, I finally hooked up my Wideband (Innovate MTX-L) and it's running great. Got more visibility on what's happening with my engine and, despite still no O2 being hooked up to the ECU yet (will be connecting MTX-L signal soon) it's still running great, and up in high boost, which it wasn't originally tuned for, it's sitting between 11.5-12 A/F R. Now to the big part. I finally pulled the trigger on some coilovers and, upon taking the advice of fellow SAU'ers, I got myself some MCA Blue's. After speaking with a few people I decided to go 10kg Front and 6kg Rear. I've got the dampers dialled in to 4 clicks (from full stiffness) front and 6 clicks rear. While chucking in the coilovers, I attacked 2 other bits that were annoying me. Firstly, after feeling a little loose in the rear, I chucked in some sub-frame lock collars. Not particularly hard to do. The second was finally chucking in a HICAS lcok bar. I just got the ebay special TAS Autosport variety but it should do the job. I can't give feedback on the setup yet as I haven't had an alignment and everything feels wayyyyy off, so I'll have to wait until it's aligned (tomorrow) to give proper feedback. What I can say is that immediately the car feels way more planted and extremely direct to inputs. It's sensitive to bumps but that's expected. When I have an alignment and the car is settled in, I'll come back here to review everything. Learning: If you're going to attack either coilovers or subframe collars, use your jack as a tool. I used the jack to raise up the wheel assembly for fitting the coilovers, as well as pushing pressure up on the sub-frame when bolting in the collars. It helped a lot in both cases.

Was a great event - I don't think I spoke to anyone here? I only chatted to a couple of people. Everyone seemed to be very much in their cliques Anyway, was a fun drive and good place to visit. Looking forward to the next one! + Great organisation and great behaviour - Couple of guys blocking the Maccas car park and not moving for public to pass (weren't SAU I don't think)