R_34

Bon bah parfait alors, il n' y à plus qu'à le poser dans la caisse.

Si le câble 1 sur les bobines n'est pas branché tu n'aura pas d'allumage et le bloc démarrera jamais. C' est le signal provenant de l'ECU amplifié par le PTU. C' est lui qui donne l'info aux bobines quand déclencher l'étincelle. Le reste que tu n' as pas câblé n' est pas essentiel pour démarrer.

I used a thin 1.5mm thick K thermocouple between a hose and the fmic with the sensing part around the middle of the flow. Plug it to an egt gauge and you have a reasonably accurate iat reading. I made a measurement on my car last year and with 30℃ ambient temp the iat rose to 43℃ near the limiter in fourth.

I couldn't find anything with that P/N. It looks like a garrett part number for HKS turbo back in the days. If you really want to know which one it is you'll need to remove the front cover and measure the compressor wheel minor and major diameter.

There is 3 compressor trim in the 2871 range : 48/52 and 56. You need to find the plate stamped on the chra and give us the part number. The trim 48 is a ~300whp turbo from memory, the 52 a 360whp and the 56 can flow 400+whp on a good setup. SR engine respond well to cams if you don't go too wild but for your power goal the turbo can do it alone. Adding cam will just reduce the amount of boost needed to do it. So bolt the shit to the engine service the engine correctly tune it and enjoy it while it last. Power figure doesn't matter if you can't trash the thing.

Manifold or spacer warped yes.

2nd MAF is also not working, you wired the MAF plug not correctlyor you have a f**king big air leak somewhere on your piping. Given what you said about the plug i would buy an other clean pigtail and wire it correctly.

UK and Irland should be the main sources for this. You may still can use your present block and cranck if you stop running it. Try driftworks, SXOC or gtr.co.uk forums for example. Donedeal.ie or ebay may be viable source too I think.

Good I don't know, I would tear it apart and inspect it anyway, if you buy a stock bottom end will result in the same thing. Living in europe too I thought buying it for a time but a 25 will always be better and cheaper on the long term. Do they really check the engine number in your country ? An RB25 is pretty stealthy if you don't know the car. Yes your trans and clutch will bolt right away to the RB25. You just need an RB25 with its harness and ECU. It would be better to find a S1 RB25 as it use the same maf as your RB20. And no I wouldn't run your rb20 as it is, you'll just ruin the cranck and maybe the rod and block if the rod finally look for a way out of its misery through the block.

Power wise it is within what the engine can happily take and what the turbo can easily make. If the goal is to make only 350whp max I would get the 2863 as it will be plenty enough already and save some late spooling on the 20. The question is how you plan on installing one on your engine ? Most housings are T25 flanged or twinscroll T3 externally gated. Either way you'll need some fabrication/modification needed to make it fit, or find a 6 bolts HKS GT25xx housing.

How much boost ?

I know that and him too but it couldn't afford a TS manifold.

A friend of mine got one on his rb25 but in TS EWG 1.05 a/r on a hybrid performance manifold open scroll T4. Feels torquey off boost and boost begin high 2000 with 0.7b around 3500/3800 (full boost for now until it get it running with something else than the basemap) without EBC. A clutch kick at 3k and this thing smoke the 265 at the rear without breaking a sweat. I'm keen to see a 7163 .80 on a 25. Should spool earlier with a better top end even if the hotside isn't flowing as good as a 7064 .92 or 1.05.

I lost the engine once after a trackeday on the journey to my home. I had to took of the CAS during the trackday, I plugged it back and finished the trackday but it seems that I didn't fully engaged the plug. After losing it on the highway it wouldn't start at all adn the fuel pump was priming but not running when cranking. Engaging the plus fully solved the issue. Check the CAS plug if there is no damaged wire or if the CAS plug is correctly engaged. Did you cleaned the maf ? Check timing belt. Check spark timing. Are the plugs recent ? How many kilometers on the odo ? Could be coilpack or PTU related they tends to break with time.

I don't know but the 9174 is now useless, at least for RB guys, as the new one will be better everywhere with lower inertia. The inducer are really close between 9174 and this new 8474 so I think that they'll spool almost the same,the newer will be slightly better. Wait and see for the release date and the first results if they didn't send some units for "testing" purpose. The 9180 won't move I think as it is more suited to large engines, the 9174 will be obsolete and the 8374 should stay as it will be a quicker spooling turbo that it's bigger brother. Well those are just guesses time will tell.

I spotted this morning on FB that a compressor update is coming on the 8374 which will become a 8474 : It shows some nice gain in flow beyond 2.2 PR with high efficiency even at high flow rates. The surge line hasn't moved too much to the right, wait and see for the spool characteristic of this new combo as a +5mm on the inducer is huge. IMHO i may replace the 9174 as it has almost the same practical flow, better efficiency but with a smaller compressor wheel.

I checked them quickly and to be honest I'm not that excited. They seem to have made tremendous progress in moving the surge line to the left while keeping the choke line where it was or increasing it a little but the efficiency plummeted quite a bit.

I had the same questions, the gain in spool is really nice !

Nope and nope. I fitted the cap without the cam to "check" the alignement visually but didn't measured it nor linebored it. As it sat flush with the head I just installed the cam and tested it but checked it twice since the installation (after each trackday) and nothing to report, it work as it should. Do you think that the head fell off on the cam cap during transport ? The box where the head came in should show some trace of this shock. Anyway this will take time to get it repaired. Given its position I wouldn't mind using an other cam cap, doing it in the middle of the cam where the cap is taking effort from the spring is another story and may need a linebore. But this one is "replaceable" to me as it is not as critical for the cam function, it's there more for sealing purpose.

I'm running with an other cap that the one the head came with. Two trackdays and some km on the roads and no signs of wear on the cam nor the cap so you can use another cap if needded. This cap is not extremely loaded because the timing belt is pulling the cam downward and all the efforts of the springs on the 1st cylinder are handed by the 2nd cam journal. This one is really just the support for the cam seal. And the fact that these cracks are black inside mean that they are there since a while, you just didn't noticed them before I think.

That's S400SX-E territory as the 500 seems to be T6 flanged. Not familiar at all with these turbo either but they're not BB nor watercooled. I don't think that BW is doing any BB/WC CHRA of this size, and for what I see garrett is only doing watercooled one. To big for ballbearings I think. The first suitable would be a GTX4202R as it has billet wheel, is watercooled, available in T4 twin scroll and about T88-38GK power rating.

I could measure the pressure in the airbox with a paper filter and an apex'i one. They both have the exact same restriction (38mbars at 260whp). The only difference I could measure was during the boost recovery after a gear change, the pressure wasn't going as low when equipped with the apex'i but I couldn't feel any difference, didn't made any log though.

I've already seen this motor in pictures, it's installed in a yellow S13 in central europe I don't know exactly where but I've seen some of his pics. The guy has a blog and a facebook page about his car. Not much info on what the engine put down or the powerband of the car. I've seen IRL an other s13 with a RB25 S2 in an S13 with a T3 7064 too competing in the drift championship here in France. Well until the last round where it crashed it in the mountains. Couldn't get in it for a ride. Being in a LHD country it is a little bit challenging for the dump but there is enough space to do something nice even in 3", just needs some more bends to avoid the steering column.

Doesn't look that bad : I need to find a manifold in better shape that this one which is cracked at sevaral places, some of the stud holes have seen a drill and most of thebolt of the heatshield are seized in it. But the adapter fit, the port shape of the adapter is almost flush with the manifold. As I said before I just need to weld the notch and deck the flange of the manifold et and it will be good to go.

You're right the one you posted is the one I got I didn't paid to much attention to the advert when I search in the shop. Mine look like this : The OEM exhaust manifol is TS like, there is a bar in the middle of the flange to force the gas coming from the first three cylinders to turn in the housing rather than piling up in the back 3 cylinders. There is just a notch in that barrier that need to be welded and then the adapter could bolt straight up giving a TS T4 manifold. Not equal length, tune dlength or anything, just OEM look, stealthiness, compacity and reliability.