R_34

Looks like an holset, HX50 or bigger. And it's wastegated only on 1 scroll, not ideal on a petrol engine. Do you have a closer pics on the plate on the CHRA ?

This was the weight distribution : Like I said, full tank, no carpet, AC and ABS removed full interior otherwise, RB20DET swap with battery in the trunk.

My 180sx with a RB20DET was around 1250kg full interior without carpet and sound deadening, AC and ABS removed, full tank.

This is the sound of a true equal length manifold. I'm in love with that kind of sound too.

Yep my bad, bread crumbs.

There is a cheap "french" solution for that. Find a tool that fit tightly in the bush and pour in some bread crump. The crump will find its way behing the bush and will push the bush out of the cranckshaft while you stack in more and more bread crump. Watch your lines they're dangerously close to the manifold IMHO.

6boost or sinco custom for a good screaming RB but it won't have the sound on the twin turbo either way. The only way to have the same sound with the twin turbo is keeping it that way.

So no MFT based bigger turbo in the loop ?

Nissan Road Racing an US forum.

I'm actually working on an engine equipped with one. The engine is still being installed in the engine bench as of now. We won't test the electric turbocharger before long. These turbos need to be cooled via the engine coolant or via a low temperature circuit, and with the power cables, the plumbing etc... and the fact that they're small unit for now only aimed at spooling small turbo they're still very far from being properly sized for our kind of engine/usage. But some manufacturers are working on 12v variant of these babies, you just need big ass wires to feed them. And we still need a control unit or an aftermarket ECU which can control them, an heavy battery to take the shot when the turbo kicks in and a powerful alternator. Way too much modifications for now to be worthwhile but 10 years from now who knows ?

Nope there no pics of it unfortunately, well none showing that exhaust housing, they juste state GTX2867 twin scroll .82 for the turbo.

I'd say no more than 235 on 8" wheel, the tire flank will not work properly with a tyre too wide for the wheel. Not too much of a problem on the street as there won't be high load on it but on track I wouldn't try it out. Car will be floaty/wavy without much more grip, just loss of precision. Dou you need that much of tire already ? I'm not pushing big numbers on my RB20 swapped 180sx (~1260kg w/o driver), I was only running 215/40 tires and I don't overheat tire that easily. But they last about 2 track days and road cruising to go to the track and return home. I plan on getting 225/45 this year and see how it goes.

The twin scroll housing for the GT28 is one made for the gt28 wheel so I suppose it works OK. A tuner in my country used one on a SR20/GTX2867/fullrace manifold/twin tial 38 gates/HKS step 2 cams. 371kw to the fly 660Nm The boost was tapering badly hence the torque drops off.

Same as above. I only see +15/+20°C above ambiant full throttle at high rpm in fifth gear on a no brand intercooler. Rest of the time it's barely above ambient temp.

I'd guess 250, 270 maybe, not more. Because you're searching the most response you choose a turbo to run it very close to its max capabilities without headroom. It'll do 230 on P98, and you might find an other 30/40kw with E85 and more boost.

Yep TS externally gated begin with the 7064 and up. On 58mm turbine there is no twin scroll EWG option, you either choose to run EWG with a single scroll or IWG twin scroll but not both. If you don't want to run adapter, keep the twin scroll option and a "small-ish" turbo then there is no EFR for you unfortunately. And yes the 63 will flow the air with more ease at high rpm meaning the engine will breathe better. At that pressure the gtx2860 will certainly be close or beyond overspeed and choke. You'll don't need to run that kind of pressure to crack your power goal, 20psi will certainly get you there given you're externally gated.

You still can put an adapter flange T3 to T4 twin scroll and bolt an EFR. But B1 frame like the 6758 doesn't come TS and externally gated you'll need to weld shut the flapper for that. No the difference in flow is not that much, it's more the better efficiency of the compressor at high airflow that is significant, we're talking almost 10% more efficiency at high rpm on kill mode. For high rpm operation (8k+ rpm) the 63 is the go, if you keep the redline lower (7/7.5krpm) the 60 is the go. I'd say 300/400rpm later spool and a smidge more lag with the 63.

Well in the former, E85 is also welcome. More timing/less boost is more fuel efficient which is the only pros AFAIK. That and claiming good power on low boost.

Can't say about other RB20 but mine loves timing, at 13psi he's given mid 30's up top, and when I had a functioning boost controller he was mid 20's at 20psi on PULP98.

The GTX2860 has 39/42lb/min worth of flow around 20/25psi range. The gen2 is also around this flow (slightly higher actually) at the same PR but it's limited by overspeed, not compressor choke like the gen 1. The GTX2863 has 42/43lb/min max flow but still has a 68% compressor efficiency around the 40lb/min. The RB20 is only 2L and not that efficient at breathing so I definitely stay with a GT28 turbine, the 63 is the way to go IMHO but if response is key and the limiter set not too high the 60 is a wiser choice. And 400usd on an housing is not that high, I was also thinking in going GT28 turbine but internally gated as I'm still on stock manifold and that was a 600usd combo for the ford 5 bolt housing plus the swing valve assembly. Combined with a GTX super core I was right on the same price of the EFR that only require a 50$ T3/T4 TS adapter to be become a bolt-on affair for twin scroll internally gated turbo. Going external gate was even more expensive between the gate price, the turbo + its housing and the need to make my manifold modified somewhere to install a gate on it. No matter what you choose I'm keen to see what you'll achieve with that little sucker.

Did you checked boost leaks ? Is the ECU still standard ? STD injectors and AFM ? Is the timing belt correctly installed ? Is the timing set to 15° ? As for the rpm reading it may work but still read 50% higher than it should, you'll need to turn the pot at the back of the tachometer almost fully counter clockwise. Redline of the RB20 is 7600rpm with a factory ECU.

When on oem anti roll bar my RS13 was neutral or slightly understeering, but I always had some toe in at the rear to keep the rear in line. The body roll was awful so i tried big front roll bar/oem rear on my S13, shit tons of understeer mid corner through the exit. Yes the body roll was reduced but clearly not in an efficient way. Throwing in GKtech FLCA made things even worse. I had a little "incident" (read too stubborn to slow down the pace) on a track day in which I bent the left FLCA. I bought a new one, reverted back to the oem front anti roll bar and bought new coilovers as the old ones were simply chinese knock off. I still didn't tested the new setup, I need and aligment and new tires. I agree on the rear bar interfering on the indepedance of the rear with the S15 helical it is not a very good idea, I had a lot of one wheel spinning on slow/tight corner in 2nd gear. I might try disconnecting the rear if the new coilovers doesn't improve things. Or going 1.5 way as last resort.

I tends to agree, I work on engine bench for a living and OEM manufacturers are designing exhaust system to have backpressure around 6 to 8 psi at peak power. So 2 psi for an exhaust without cat and 3inch system seems on the high side. I didn't mesured backpressure on my car though.

Maybe the guy didn't see it, maybe his cutting tool was too short to go through, maybe the program on the CNC wasn't robust enough to take the differences between housing casting who knows ?