msammut

Thank you all for enlightening me. I have read the N1 engine was specifically built for racing and that the oil pump on the N1 was a higher flow type. Not much about the N1 water pump though. I will not be racing the car. I just want a reliable strong engine as I got the block fairly cheap. Are the oil pumps prone to failures? So is the consensus that I can drop the cams from the stock block into the N1? If I change the cam timing as suggested above to match the N1 what will be the likely effect? Thank you all again.

Can I use stock cams in an N1 block? Gentlemen and ladies I have an RB26 N1 block and I have stripped down my stock RB26 block. I would like to build this block as an N1 engine. I am getting my crank blue printed. N1 oil pump and N1 water pump. Are the N1 cams the same as the stock ones? i read this on this site. SKYPER 0 120 posts Car(s):GTS-T Posted March 31, 2008 · Report post N1 cams have the same lift, duration as stock GTR cams but the central angles are different - http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html Like this Quote Can anyone clarify? thank you.

Hi Mike. If you are proficient in electronics then I would buy or get hold of the wiring diagram of both the rb25det neo engine or car and the wiring diagram of r34 gt coupe. Do some trawling through both diagrams and get to work finding the matching wires. I do not know how similar the engines and cars are. If you do not have these skills to a high degree then it will cost money and time to get a very good Auto elec to do it for you and there probably will be no guarantees about reliability. Michael.

Hi Aaron just looked at the FSM page EN-139 states Perform CONSULT active test mode ( Increasing "FUEL INJECTION" item) or enrich mixture by disconnecting engine temperature sensor connector and inserting a 600 Ohm resistance after warming up the engine. ) Nissan suggest that insufficient fuel pressure could cause misfire on acceleration. Has fuel pressure been checked? Have you an after market fuel pressure regulator or Stock? need to check that the regulator is working correctly also. Lots of other checks that should be done on pages EN-139 - EN-142 before changing parts by guessing. Michael.

Good to hear you found the problems and fixed them. It's a good feeling when you solve problems that seem too difficult at first. Understanding how machines should work helps a lot. Never stop learning. Michael.

Hi, Just looked up pin 20 on the AEM ECU EMS P/N 30-6620. If this is your ECU then pin 20 is a ground. The ECU sends a ground signal to fire the injectors. No ground . No injection. Only if the part number of your ECU matches the one you have that is. Do not ground pin 20 unless your ECU part number is EMS P/N 30-6620. I need to know your exact ECU Part number to verify what your pin 20 is. Ignition signal signal system ground could mean anything I need to have more info. If the Ignition system ground is missing then I would assume there would also be no spark as well as no injection and possibly no fuel pump running. Michael.

Thanks Bob. I will need to have the crank either balanced or replaced. When i pull the motor I will be in better position to decide. New pistons for sure. I will see what else it needs. Michael.

Ok. I got hold of an N1 (24u) block that has been bored out to 86.5mm. I want to see what parts I can use off my stock engine internals. I know about the oil pump and steel exhaust impeller. I just want a stock N1 build. Not high horsepower. Just a reliable stock engine. What can I put in and what should I not put in and get new? Michael

Hi there. I would be looking to what is common to both ignition and the injection system. Is there a fuse to the ECU? Michael.

Well I think I found the problem. While checking fuel pressure i moved the wiring to the injector connectors and got a change on no 6 injector wiring. On closer inspection the injector plug was half off. I pushed it in all the way. Now there is no change when wiring is moved. Need to drive it to check but i think this was the problem. Fuel pressure idling and under load was in spec anyway. Michael.

Well I think I found the problem. While checking fuel pressure i moved the wiring to the injector connectors and got a change on no 6 injector wiring. On closer inspection the injector plug was half off. I pushed it in all the way. Now there is no change when wiring is moved. Need to drive it to check but i think this was the problem. Fuel pressure idling and under load was in spec anyway. Michael.

Thanks Ravi. I will check voltages of AFM when cold and try to check when hot. the Voltmeter is reading a steady 14V. So I cannot see it being a voltage or charging issue but I wil keep an eye on it. Changed the fuel filter today then drove 300km in the car. Did 100 Km with no problem the other 200 km with the problem. No acceleleration, missing and surging with boost fluctuation but not overboost. Remember all is well when cold but after an hour of driving the problem occurs. Michael.

Sorry. Yes. 10PSI and holds. Also when power is lost the car gurgles at low speed on deceleration and seems to backfire at high speed (100kmh) decelerations. Michael.

Ok GTR owners and experts. I am new the forum and have had my R32 GTR for about 2 months. While on a long (1hr) drive I noticed on acceleration I had almost no power. The car surges and I can her the recirculation valves cycling opening and closing while accelerating. Also noticed sometimes the Hicas light flickers on and off. Car details: 1993 RB26 GTR 5 speed manual. Stock except for Aftermarket radiator Dual stage Turbosmart boost controller (set to 10psi). Diagnosis so far. Replaced PTU (upgraded -yellow jacket) - No change. Checked Timing (22 deg BTDC). Replaced sparkplugs - no change. Anyone out there had similar problem and solution? About to check fuel pressure. I suspect ECCS or Fuel pump controller. I do not want to throw money at the problem without a proper diagnosis. Thanks for any assistance. Michael.

Hi there. i am new to the Skyline scene but i have some experience with Electonics. You say the ground to the engine is ok but what about ethe Body ground? I do not know where they all are but there should be a gorund connection to the body also. To test I suggest you get a jumper lead and connect the Negative of the Battery to a bolt somewhere on the cars body and see it the cranking improves. Michael

Need to tell whether it is a Fuel problem or Ignition issue. 1. Fuel. Connect a fuel pressure gauge in filter line. See what happens to the pressure when the car shuts down. 2. Ignition. Get a timing light and connect it. Wait for the car to shut down and try to restart it and if the light does not flashwhen you try to restart it is an ignition issue. Michael.

The solenoid on top of the starter normally comes with a set of spacer rings. These rings detemine how far the solenoid throws out the starter pinion which in turn determines whether the starter pinion engages fully or partially. i would suggest that the people who reco'ed your starter may need to add or remove the spacers. When I bought a new solenoid for another nissan i was given 3 spacers. Michael.

Thanks for the welcome. I am still getting the thing registered in Vic. I suppose you all know about the extra VIN details that need to be stamped around the Shock Tower mounting. that is what stopped me getting it registered in Victoria. Got mine from interstate and just had a label which is not accepted in Vic. I will consider a build thread when i know what i have. Michael

Hi there people. I have just got my first GTR R32 after having a couple of 300ZX's which i recently sold to pay for the GTR. i was on the Australian 300ZX forum but now joined this one asI got some great help from the ZX forum. i am sure this one will be the same. i am a bit of an electronic wiz so I would like to learn about the GTR electrics and may be able to assist others in this area. Looking forward to enjoying my new toy and gaining some valuable experience from the other forum members. Michael.