niZmO_Man

Shame my car is way to shit body wise for a show n shine entry.

Just go back to 98 Or swap cars before burning it to the ground.

I love using this reference: Heard of the Mine's R34 GT-R? Look up the Best Motoring video, look at what airbox it's using

Have you tried searching for things like "offset calculator" ? You'd need flares to cover those wheels, or, I'm guessing you're after US stance A1 arena look, 175 wide tyres and -7° camber.

^ This guy knows. I'd like a ride in your car one day. Try increasing the dampers (i.e. making them a bit harder). Your springs are pretty stiff, and probably not that well dampened (considering the cheap dampers), expect a stiff ride. I paid people at tyre shops to align my wheels, and my car drove worse afterwards. They also said that <insert tyre they are trying to sell> is better than what I have on my car, no, it's not. They also said that I couldn't fit 265/35/18 (on BNR34 wheels) on my car, psh. I would laugh at their faces if they told me to adjust the suspension height with the spring seat when I have base height adjustable struts. I used to drive through Parramatta Rd on almost a daily basis with my GT-R. I had old TEINs on there, my gods it was horrid. At least the Ohlins installed now are more compliant (although not 'tuned'). FYI standard R32 GT-R spring rates are (from memory) 3 and 3.5 kg/mm (f,r).

1. Take troubled car to mechanic to get diagnosis/fix 2. They can't find anything 3. Best thing to do is create a thread on SAU instead of taking it to another place, while still driving your car with dodgy steering? Some potential issues: flogged out bushes in the upper arms|steering rack mounts|rear end, bad alignment, weirdly worn/dodgy tyres, worn dampers. Good luck and post the issue(s) and fixes for reference. Also, crabbing cars => bend chassis?

LOL

I've read that KU39 aren't as good as the old KU31. That was enough for me to try other brands (Falken FK452, Dunlop SP Sport Maxx; cheap via Tempe Tyres). The Michelins would be the bomb though. Perhaps the PS3?

Only reason I'd get a V-Spec is for the diffusers and bonnet (VSpec2). If I were to add aftermarket (or even the Nissan ones later on) diffusers, then I'd get a regular GT-R.

Here's another one

Do you owe someone a ten second car?

Aren't BC dyno'd before they're shipped? If so, I'd leave it at the settings, maybe move it a little bit either way.

If you want to "stance" your car, then yes definitely need more aggressive sizes and offsets.

I could only get 3-4 laps in before oil went past 120degC, need an oil cooler badly.

^ This guy, a quick car. Car Make and Model: R32 GT-R Circuit Name: SMP South Circuit (the short sucker) Lap time: 1:09 Timing: Natsoft Modifications Engine: Standard RB26DETT Power: standard (with restrictors removed)

You'll need a lock up garage as well?

+1 Some pictures from my phone:

Welcome! Those sizes are fine, it's good enough for Nismo. But, it depends on what look you are after. Have a look here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311136-r34-gtt-wheel-register/ http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2006109&postcount=78

Any particular front pipe?

On a different note, the "communal sponge" in the kitchen at work probably houses a new ecosystem now.

Import some Pilot Super Sport

Yep I'd choose the 9.5+22 as well with 265 wide tyres, only reason I have my current wheels is they're Nismo haha. What's your intended use? There is a tyre thread you know...

Better off getting internal drive nuts as aftermarket wheels tend to not allow you to use standard wheel nuts.

Green slip (CTP) has nothing to do with your comprehensive insurance, CTP is for rego so it won't be affected if you switch (it's prepaid essentially). Companies can give you discounted prices if you have both with them though. Aww. It does say in the terms racing will void unless agreed upon

I have FK452, on a fat arse GT-R they are pretty greasy. I did have the pressures a bit too high though. Definitely want track day tyres for the next one.