joshuaho96

In the US V35s and V36s are mostly disappearing because they've been crashed and modified to death like any other cheap RWD car. Such is life.

Pretty much yes. I'm attracted to poor life decisions which is how I ended up with a GTR after all.

The FA has a ton of technologies in it that make it halfway acceptable for fuel economy compared to the positively stone-age EJ. GDI allows for scavenging without a bunch of fuel missing the combustion chamber and going straight out the exhaust. Cooled EGR allows for a lot more knock margin than the engine would have otherwise. TGV allows for good fuel mixing even at low RPM with GDI. There's also part load Atkinson cycle operation.

Stock block or stock bottom-end? I can believe stock block. The question is also how long you can make that power for. Subaru has killed 100% stock STIs under warranty by shipping poor tunes.

The F82 M4 is technically extremely competent. It's also kind of emotionally dead and somehow sounds absolutely horrible with the stock exhaust. To me that car exemplifies the fact that we don't drive spec sheets, there are a ton of little details that affect the experience.

With an EJ25? The limit for ringlands I thought was due to combustion chamber pressures. While any one knock event can instantly kill the pistons at 250 kW to the wheels or so my understanding was even normal combustion could still damage the piston ringlands. Then from there the next thing to break would be conrods.

I checked online and Garrett seems to suggest that at warm idle minimum oil pressure at the inlet needs to be at least 15 psi and at redline no more than 45 psi. Can you really separate oil pressure and flow rate in these systems? I assume that when the spec says a certain oil pressure it implies a certain resulting pressure drop across the CHRA and a resulting flow rate.

The STI in particular still had an EJ engine in it. It pretty much never had the ability to take big power. The entire block flexes easily and is not conducive to a long and healthy life with big power. The factory top-mount intercooler heat soaks very easily. The factory cast pistons put the compression ring very high up making it very vulnerable to knock in order to reduce crevice volume for emissions. Considering how weak the block is the 2.5L EJ257 used in the US is basically not designed to ever be stroked as the rod ratio is already on the low side. Normally not a problem, plenty of Honda engines run pretty extreme rod ratios but an EJ block is a delicate thing. The S209 in the US made 340 hp using an HKS GTIII-RS turbo and that is probably the absolute limit of what Subaru/STI powertrain engineers were comfortable with warrantying.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ The Kinugawa bolt-on turbos for RB26 are far larger than the -7s, it also lacks the HKS logo for extra JDM tyte points for cars and coffee. The goal isn't really to go for big power. The GTIII-SS obviously is down on response from bearing drag but it's a smaller turbo than the GT-SS. It's pretty much the smallest turbo readily available for the RB26 other than the factory ceramics. It's not going to impress anyone with numbers but if that was the goal I'd buy a Lucid Air.

There's a lot of drama that led up to that. Tomei USA started using different sources for camshafts and other parts and sometimes it wasn't equivalent in quality to the Tomei JP brand version. Supposedly they stopped paying the JP branch as well. You can look up Real Speed Engineering to see Tomei USA parts being sold in Japan. Personally I stay away not because of this business drama in the background but because multiple people have posted issues like the Tomei USA cams physically not fitting in the head and head gaskets failing on the very first engine start. Maybe one is a fluke but multiple people going to different machine shops and generally pretty knowledgeable about the requirements around surface finish/flatness/etc for MLS all having issues is too much for me to even bother risking it.

Doesn't the turbo call for a specific oil pressure at the feed? So in theory at least a super high pressure oil pump will need more restriction and a low pressure oil pump would need less restriction. How much that actually matters in the context of real parts I don't know.

I still debate what to do there honestly, the original turbos were covered in either a ton of blowby from the decades or seeping a little from the seals and I couldn't ship them with the car anyways. As far as I can tell nobody really rebuilds turbos with the factory ceramic turbine either. I'm also not sure that anyone cares about having the factory ceramic turbos, even for weird obsessives like me. Then again you have the Contempo Concepts of the world trying to source series 1 R32 steering wheels because the later revisions have slightly wider spokes which is unacceptable to them. I'm pretty sure you're right but it's kind of interesting to see the kinds of results that this tuner got with the magical beans. They also report differences between the HKS 2530 turbos and the Garrett -5s which is interesting: How real any of this is an open question but they sure sold me on the HKS magic bean journal bearing nuggets. Well, that and a lot of staring at Kansai Service/Midori Seibi dyno charts to get a sense for how they compared to the other relatively low power bolt-on turbos.

I like my gloves, but I'm a desk jockey that gets sore all over after rotating my tires and bleeding brakes.

A lot of workshops I talk to don't even do intake plenum/collector with the engine in the car.

Removing or installing the twin turbo setup with the engine in the car is a pretty miserable experience. I have no idea why anyone would bother with that.

Nismo R3 turbos for the Nismo logo in the compressor housing. It adds 50 horsepower at least.

I wouldn't allow the engine to turn until you've verified that you haven't gotten a bunch of ceramic bits from the turbine going backwards from exhaust gas reversion. Letting off at high rpm you can see the manifold pressure reach high levels of vacuum.

I haven't really heard of these venturis being replaced very often in most R33s. For a 450 lph pump it may be necessary but with the 276 lph drop-in pumps it's probably not. From what I see online people don't report issues like this on the R33: https://www.skylineowners.com/threads/help-identifying-this-part.317169/

The design seen in the OEM part would definitely not pop off even under boost. Pretty substantial lip with a hose clamp to apply pressure to keep it from moving. The trouble is finding an aftermarket pipe that would replicate that design feature.

https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Data Sheet_68749835_Electronic_Throttle_Body.pdf It's really strange to me that their drawing here shows what I would expect, which is a lip to keep an intake pipe from slipping off and a flat section for sealing properly. This is 0280.750.101. Digging deeper into it apparently this is not what is being sold widely, rather it's whatever is being used by Porsche and other vendors. Looking at the EPC number 3 in this diagram is the pipe that connects up to the front of the throttle body: Edit: If you look at this guide showing how they clean the throttle body it's clear to me that the pipe has a lip in it and then a hose clamp that applies pressure to keep it from pulling off: https://www.planet-9.com/threads/how-to-throttle-body-cleaning-and-gdi-intake-cleaning.248159/

Looks like the back of it is just flat, so you'd have a gasket and then some bolts that hold it to the intake. If it's anything like the other DBW setups I've seen it's just a hose and hose clamp that goes over the front of the throttle body and the lip is there to keep the hose from slipping.

Doesn't this affect the brake bias?

Easiest way to find it is to pressurize the system with nitrogen and see if it loses pressure. Or pull a vacuum and see if it loses vacuum.

Pretty sure this is the correct thing to do if you know that there will be no downstream relief valve. Looking at the RB20 housing I don't see anything like the relief valves in the RB26 housing.

With an external oil cooler I would imagine that you want a bypass both for filter pressure and the oil cooler. In the RB26 the factory housing has a relief valve on it for either scenario. I'm pretty sure that the block itself does not have the relief valve.