joshuaho96

http://mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/index.htmlbkbk I also recall reading a report in which poor air filtration caused damage to hot film MAF sensors like those used by the R35 will cause the surface of the film to become pitted and damaged. It's also generally well accepted that the silt taken in by the engine will also get into the oil as elevated silica content. I don't recommend anything other than dry paper filters as a result. The stock airbox is really not as bad as people claim it to be, people insist on changing what isn't broken though.

As others have said replace the HKS trash pods before the foam disintegrates and gets sucked into the turbos, they suck at filtering too which can cause engine wear over time, you'll see more silica content in the oil as a result. That has nothing to do with the coolant temperatures though. If you're driving -3C conditions then it's hard to say, especially if you're running a low temp thermostat and the heater. 5-7C you shouldn't see the engine dropping below thermostat crack temp in normal operating conditions.

While true that the coolant temperature gauge is "dumb" and won't show proper coolant temperatures, if you actually notice it dipping more than parallax error would allow then it's very likely that there is a problem. Get a Consult cable and Nissan Datascan and run some logs to see what the coolant temps actually are in those cases. If it's dropping below 80C first step is to replace the thermostat. I would probably want to be sure of the issue before actually replacing the thermostat, from what I can tell it's a real pain in the neck to replace.

https://www.protecfuelpumps.com/product/11922-brushless-cobra-compact-with-516-sae-j2044-outlet-kit/ Anyone know anything about these pumps? Dimensions look to be only slightly larger than the DW300, seems like a decent candidate for a lower power build while keeping amps low.

As a general rule it's usually almost always cheaper to just rebuild what you have or source a new OEM part. Rare exception is some GTR parts where an ignitor alone is 600 USD and Nissan Japan wants like 140 USD for a coilpack.

Has Haltech considered keeping a stable channel for ESP + Elite firmware and beta for people willing to run the risk of issues like this?

Try running some data logs via Nissan Datascan, at least you want to figure out why it's going into limp mode.

Check the ECU for leaking capacitors, with a car this old it's worth a shot.

Is there even an ECU that can play nicely with the 4AT in these Stageas? I don't mean like a Motec where in theory you could write all of the code to handle that stuff, actual support where there's a base map that is pretty much spot-on for the transmission, just need to change some calibration values to get things like shift mapping to suit, maybe some timing retard adjustments to get the shifts smoothed out as well.

I still don't understand the point of dividing the wastegate from the exhaust turbine. Does it actually matter? I get the distinct impression from modern designs that the answer is no.

I believe the way they get around point 3 is that they offer a "free entry" by mailing in a card to the business. Very simple and easy compared to buying a shirt which gives you "10 entries".

If you have a manual I would strongly consider just running a Haltech or comparable ECU that supports AFM, you should be able to develop a base map based off of the factory ECU tables from there.

If there isn't a ton of metal in the oil/filter you've won the lottery.

Everything is a compromise, personally I'm not enough driver to actually use a big power build effectively on the track anyways.

Right, but in order to get to 700 whp for example you need a turbo that can flow that kind of air. If you then turn the boost down to 1 bar for street use then you're only clipping the portion of the RPM range where the engine would be making more than 1 bar, if you never intend on exceeding say 450 whp you could run a smaller turbo in the same family to get better transient response. Instead of an EFR 8374 you could run a 7163 or maybe even a 6758.

where is this mythical promised land where you can actually use 800+ hp on the street safely?

Is it better to just run until it spins a bearing? I got the impression that rebuilds are more straightforward if you do it before catastrophic failure.

I'm amazed you haven't spun a bearing yet. Engines do not last long without oil pressure.

If we're just trying to find the highest horsepower per dollar car you could just do this and get within spitting distance of 1200 hp crank for 55k USD: https://www.lebanonfordperformance.com/2020-1000hp-mustang-for-54995/ Personally I think the RB26 GTR with -7s or comparable is enough power, but I have a weird obsession with things like good street manners and an engine that won't blow up if I don't use Motul 300V/Valvoline VR1 and change it every 2000 miles or whatever crazy maintenance regimen is involved in keeping a 600+ whp RB26 alive.

Cost to build goes up dramatically as power numbers increase. On top of that you have to pay for frequent rebuilds, nothing making 1200 hp does it for very long. If every rebuild requires you to either ship an entire car to another continent or drop the engine and ship that to another continent the costs are going to skyrocket. There's really no such thing as a cheap build with RBs. The costs are laughable compared to a Hellcat Redeye crate engine which is under 30k USD and starts you at 800 crank hp on pump gas, completely emissions compliant and FCA has already done all the ECU tuning + setup for you. Run E85 and you're probably going to get to 900 whp no problem, no other changes needed. It won't be laggy either, the displacement helps tremendously with driveability. IMO the instant you start setting non-trivial power goals for an RB a lot of soul searching is needed to justify it. The cost is insane, the compromises are big, and you're setting yourself up for a car that will live in a trailer towed from one drag event to another.

AFAIK DeepL is a lot better these days, worth a shot for those that don't know.

In theory it's possible, I kind of doubt it with a stock engine though: http://midoriseibi.co.jp/blog/5395

If your transmission lives a pretty easy life and isn't subject to heavy shock loads then protection at operating temperatures is not as big a concern as behavior when cold, personally I plan on trying Motorcraft's GL-4 as it supposedly has had pretty good results at taming some rather grind-prone Miata transmissions.

Trust Kikaku is pretty aggressive with their pricing, in their videos they regularly say that they have to make it "worth their time", usually they stockpile parts and wait for Nissan to officially announce big price increases and then sell at the new price.

There's a few people that have gone through the G&K process that made it through the same way they do the R32 GT-Rs. I plan on just disconnecting the wastegate solenoid until I can actually get the car on a dyno, if the actuator spring is stronger than OEM it'll probably overboost past the load limits of the OEM tables.