MrStabby

Nitrogen has a lower coefficient of expansion than air, so the pressure inside the tyre doesn't change as much as it heats and cools. SFA difference on the street. On the track i guess it means you can start cold with a little more pressure, so your cold tyres aren't as mushy as they come up to temp.

You need an aftermarket ECU to get a tune (unless you do a custom rom, but that sort of sucks). If you haven't changed anything on the car since the last tune was done, it might be a waste of time, however. What ECU is it?

Be careful of the fit if you go non-standard size - you don't want the fan taking a bite out of the shroud... Some of the ebay ones dont fit at all.... You should be able to find an SAU trader with something to suit, and that would be a safer bet.

So that would mean $880 for a clutch change...yeah too much. $600 would probably be realistic, not that I would really know. Takes me ages... Give yourself a weekend and you should be fine. Get mate to help you. I might be able to help out a bit....

Inner west workshop for install: Maybe Japlink in Haberfield or Tunehouse Marrickville. I haven't used either but they seem to be well regarded. For the clutch plate give NPC a call or email. They can courier stuff to you in a day or two.

I have an N1 motor too, but haven't found good info about them. Take this all with a grain of salt - but its the only info I have for now. - More finely balanced bottom end (but same crank and rods) - Stronger, but still cast, pistons - Stronger block (24U stamped, instead of O5U) - High volume oil pump - Updated water pump for high RPM use - Different cam(s) - AFAIK the exhaust cam is longer duration, I think the lift is the same. Intake cam may be the same as non-N1. Your compression test looks fine to me. AFAIK N1 run the same compression as other motors, and the difference in cams is small so you'd expect to see the same results as a non-N1 motor. What turbos has it got? Did you verify its a N1 motor? If so, how?

I thought dual hole injectors were intended for dual intake valve heads. Some designs spray the fuel onto the back of each valve head, using the heat of the valve to help fuel atomisation.

Got a set of calipers? Measure the lift by subtracting the two dimensions in this picture. The stockers are 8.58mm IN, 8.28mm EX.

Nissan FAST would be help. IIRC its a 4gig download... and you'd have to find it...

Nope, a little light coloured smoke.

Telltale sign for that boot's death is fumes through the shifter boot at highway cruise.

If you want to do it yourself (or with a mate helping) check out the clutch change DIY in my sig for some clues. Consider doing the clutch at the same time if its old. Wild stab in the dark for cost, around $500, or whatever a clutch change costs.

A couple of years back bunch of us had 4000's crack with track use (the thread should be easy to find). Are they any better now?

+1. OP, your rebuild N1 turbos will be old R32/33 tech, so they wont spool as well as R34 N1's. I'd also swap out the decat for a 3.5in metal matrix cat. It will be far better for the environment, the colour/cleanliness of your rear bar, and your wallet if you get caught

Pretty sure gtst rotors 2mm thinner, ie 30mm while early gtr is 32mm. +1 for RDAs.

As long as the repair was done well, you wont notice any difference. Not worth stressing about.

Re: FPR - no, other way around. The FPR can be used to raise the pressure in the fuel rail, so the injectors flow a bit more. Its a hack, but if you only need a little more flow, its economical. If you getting bigger injectors there's no need for the extra flow from bumping up the pressure, as they will have enough flow already. On RB26s many people have had good results using adjustable cam gears. The argument to avoid them because the tuner may not touch them, should be an arguement to get a better tuner, rather than to avoid the gears! For Cost/benefit, most setups will find cam gears a far better alternative than aftermarket cams. Anyways, they're certainly not required.

But would the US return the favour? M.A.D. style?

If its the hose at the back, yeah its the attessa. There's no seal. Is it tight? IIRC its 17mm, and you should use a flare nut spanner, not an open ender. Fluid will leak out if you disconnect it.

Yep, good plan. If the injectors hadnt already been cleaned then i'd suggest replace them and dont bother with the FPR. When you do upgrade the injectors you wont need the FPR anymore, but since you're pushing the stockers to their limit, it will be useful. Re: cam gears, sounds like you can include them now since the injectors and afms are out of the picture They're not essential of course, but if you were to add them later you'll need to pay for another tune. EDIT: If you have N1 cams, the cam gears will be less useful.

Same. 91BNR - you should have no problems getting 300kw, and you shouldn't need to add any other parts to get there. The only thing you could add is adjustable cam gears, to help low end response.

You'll only get bubbles if there's boost. At idle it will suck the soapy water in.

Yeah but "full boost" is a relative term, so not very useful. If that car was running 17psi boost, he would be making full boost at 4000, which is about right.

SK reckons brand new stock for gts-t is 380fr 370rr (to 375 365 after 1000kms), which is a lot more than the 360/360 in that chart. No idea which is right... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/118993-r33-gts-t-stock-ride-heights/