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r32-25t

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Everything posted by r32-25t

  1. r32-25t
    That’s what you want to do go for it, but don’t argue that it’s so much cheaper when it’s not. If you do a cast block properly there isn’t much difference in price and still end up with a weaker block.
  2. r32-25t
    Hi octane do a dry sump kit that puts the pump under the alternator and allows you to keep the a/c
  3. r32-25t
    At the end of the day I know someone with a billet block that’s done over 10,000kms and over 50 9.0sec passes and the engine hasn’t had to be worked on. For me that’s about 10yrs worth of driving
  4. r32-25t
    I don’t pay labour, not everyone builds their car with a cheque book
  5. r32-25t
    And the Japanese valve springs comes under is shit
  6. r32-25t
    Once you cut the seats the Japanese springs lose so much seat pressure they aren’t worth they price in scrap
  7. r32-25t
    I had a head built and had a set of tomei type bs, shop measured the seat pressure and made me buy a new set because they weren’t going to be close to doing the job.
  8. r32-25t
    New set of bearings is under $500, pretty sure most people could live with that. crack a block and your up for a block, sonic testing, grout filling, billet mains/girdle, machine work, rings/bearings, building it and all the little parts no one thinks of. You don’t get much change from 10 grand at that point. Do that not then once and the billet seems cheap
  9. r32-25t
    The deck isn’t thick enough in a cast 26 block and will eventually crack, I’ve seen and old school n1 block with all the shit (billet mains, girdle blah blah) and it’s still cracked. You think the engines last forever in those 9/8/7 second cars? You’re dreaming
  10. r32-25t
    Surprised no has done a 3d print to fit there yet
  11. r32-25t
    When the car is running again I’ll make decisions on what I want everything to do, at the moment I’ve just hooked it up because the haltech recommend I do it when I set the inputs/output to use dbw
  12. r32-25t
    I hooked up both my brake and clutch pedals into the ecu all my temp sensors are on AVI except fuel
  13. r32-25t
    When you select drive by wire in the haltech ecu it pushes you to set up a brake pedal input so that if the pedal says be closed and the brake pedal is saying you want to stop but the throttle isn’t closed it will put it straight into limp mode
  14. r32-25t
    Yes
  15. r32-25t
    To free up some AVIs you can cheat with the temperature sensors and use them on SPIs and change the scaling of the sensor to suit the drive by wire AVIs must be on the ecu and can’t be in the i/o box
  16. r32-25t
    Did you not already fit a brake pedal input when going to dbw as fail safe if something goes to shit?
  17. r32-25t
    Drive by wire uses 4 AVIs and the 2 dbw driver wires brake and clutch pedal use one each
  18. r32-25t
    The fact they fitted 2 of them always confused me
  19. r32-25t
    Boys boys, don’t believe that bullshit or the skewed vision to make yourself feel better about your purchase. They’re junk and not even equal to the old dash series of turbos from Garrett
  20. r32-25t
    Plus the dbw drive wires that can be used for other things as well
  21. r32-25t
    Haven’t got any DPIs left? You can put the brake or clutch pedals onto any type of input
  22. r32-25t
    It looks like when you removed the plenum and left the bracket off that sits on top of that, you haven’t put the bolts back in
  23. r32-25t
    I always find it funny when people talk about billet being more expensive, yes the initial build is more expensive but the when (not if) the deck of the cast block cracks and you have to pay for it again, you’re then well and truly behind compared to what the billet engine would have ended up costing
  24. r32-25t
    Guess the sump best the engine including having the diff fitted
  25. r32-25t
    Ok plain English put a 6466 with a divided 1.00 rear on it
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