Jump to content
SAU Community

r32-25t

Members
  • Posts

    22,465
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    187
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by r32-25t

  1. I’m chasing what ever my turbo will allow, being a 6466 the maximum seems to be around 600kw at the hubs, my goal is very low compared to what most people with billet blocks are chasing but I’ve already cracked one cast block and don’t want to risk having to do it all twice
  2. https://justjap.com/collections/crate-engines-blocks/products/nismo-heritage-engine-block-11000-05u00-nissan-gtr-stagea-260rs-rb26dett It’s actually 3,500 not 3k, they do come with one but if it’s cracked it’ll need to be replaced
  3. You don’t need a brace on a billet block, in fact you can’t even fit one because they are designed differently
  4. From what I’ve heard there’s 2 types of gtr left in Japan, collector cars worth 100s of thousands or the junk no body wants. All the stuff in between has already been exported
  5. Are you confusing the 7k 24U block with the 3k 05U block?
  6. A 26 block is 3k for an 05U and then you hope it’s got enough meat in it What about sonic testing? Half inch head studs? Billet mains? The torque plate being used while the grout is drying? Buying the main and head studs that are supplied with the billet block? you want to run consultant 8? Most of the cars running those times have moved to billet blocks probably because they cracked the cast ones (I know that’s why wargtr swapped over)
  7. Ask in there and someone will be able to help you with the name change
  8. Also with Covid and everything being cancelled constantly made it very hard to book something and guarantee it would go ahead. Now that everything has settled (for now) we are trying to get more events going including Motorsport types events also eastern creek is very much trying to cater only to the very well off and forgetting about the grass roots guys
  9. You don’t have to go dry sump, hi octane do an extended sump and external pump kit that’s a lot cheaper. Most people already have a remote mount oil filter and oil cooler anyway and we both know the extended sump is a must on any gtr build as is a good oil pump
  10. That’s what you want to do go for it, but don’t argue that it’s so much cheaper when it’s not. If you do a cast block properly there isn’t much difference in price and still end up with a weaker block.
  11. Hi octane do a dry sump kit that puts the pump under the alternator and allows you to keep the a/c
  12. At the end of the day I know someone with a billet block that’s done over 10,000kms and over 50 9.0sec passes and the engine hasn’t had to be worked on. For me that’s about 10yrs worth of driving
  13. I don’t pay labour, not everyone builds their car with a cheque book
  14. And the Japanese valve springs comes under is shit
  15. Once you cut the seats the Japanese springs lose so much seat pressure they aren’t worth they price in scrap
  16. I had a head built and had a set of tomei type bs, shop measured the seat pressure and made me buy a new set because they weren’t going to be close to doing the job.
  17. New set of bearings is under $500, pretty sure most people could live with that. crack a block and your up for a block, sonic testing, grout filling, billet mains/girdle, machine work, rings/bearings, building it and all the little parts no one thinks of. You don’t get much change from 10 grand at that point. Do that not then once and the billet seems cheap
  18. The deck isn’t thick enough in a cast 26 block and will eventually crack, I’ve seen and old school n1 block with all the shit (billet mains, girdle blah blah) and it’s still cracked. You think the engines last forever in those 9/8/7 second cars? You’re dreaming
  19. When the car is running again I’ll make decisions on what I want everything to do, at the moment I’ve just hooked it up because the haltech recommend I do it when I set the inputs/output to use dbw
  20. I hooked up both my brake and clutch pedals into the ecu all my temp sensors are on AVI except fuel
  21. When you select drive by wire in the haltech ecu it pushes you to set up a brake pedal input so that if the pedal says be closed and the brake pedal is saying you want to stop but the throttle isn’t closed it will put it straight into limp mode
  22. To free up some AVIs you can cheat with the temperature sensors and use them on SPIs and change the scaling of the sensor to suit the drive by wire AVIs must be on the ecu and can’t be in the i/o box
  23. Did you not already fit a brake pedal input when going to dbw as fail safe if something goes to shit?
×
×
  • Create New...