Jump to content
SAU Community

WazR32GTSt

Members
  • Posts

    4,632
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by WazR32GTSt

  1. once i tackle my seat (maybe this weekend) i will do a separate writeup
  2. chris, how long would you need a car for? you can have mine for a few days once i get a new battery for the vette early next week any good for you?
  3. jarthel, remember to keep things in context when you read them. when i get in the car every morning, it is great. starts first time, quiet as hell, i love it. glad i bought it 100% of the time. the low-rpm torque is fantastic. the handling superb for my needs. braking equally as good. it looks classy yet sporty. there is nothing you can get for the same $$$ that competeswith it except its sister the 350z when i get home i sure as hell don't log onto the forums and post a thread about how much i love the car today and highlight all its positive features as then i would be posting the same thread every day for 365 days of the year! but, on the rare and odd occasion something does go wrong i will be the first to log on and express my concern, trying to find a solution. this is the nature of forums: solving problems with the car and learning more about hte car (ie developing solutions for common problems or upgrades) remember this: you always hear about the negatives and rarely about the positives when you have driven a V35 you will understand what we mean and as far as the faults go, problematic door locks and window motors is nothing compared to cars having engine and trans troubles that are inherant eg my old MA70 supra that used to blow headgaskets! or genIII v8 commodores that drink oil. some other god info can be had by searching google for some american reviews on the g35. i read about 10 reviews before i bought my car. the best search is for reviews compaing the g35 coupe to the bmw 330ci - you will soon realise how good the car is and how it competes with bmw in the market. its not an M3 beater, its a rival for the 330ci jarthel, can i also ask how old you are? and what cars have you owned before? might help us to understand your car background to help you understand more about the car..
  4. i htink it was sometime in 2004 how do you know its series 2? the interior is a massive giveaway as it has a totally different dash other differences are subtle including tail lights, headlights, front bumper on some of them post a pic of the one you're lookign at and we can tell you
  5. how low do you need to go? i never let it get beow 1/8 of a tank..
  6. damn.. i thought the 1:00 in the last photo might have been from re-setting the battery.. but not according to the post time! your work is much appreciated mate
  7. thanks chris - you are the man! PS there's not much that beats top gear when driving to work!
  8. MV automatics is in South Australia Col, where's aspley auto's?
  9. "we" = the collective efforts of the akylines australia crew personally, i have nothing to do with it! you need no additional documents when buying an import all you need to register it is the engine number and vin number if its in australia on the road then its legal or if you buy from a dealership they do everything for you!
  10. importing = cheaper, but riskier as you can't see or drive the car apart from pictures on the internet you can save quite a few thousand $$ by importing buying locally gives you the option to drive and review it as you would any other car, but colours are limited and optional extras are limited mechanical parts are easy to get as they share engine/gearbox/suspension with the 350z body panels are harder to get the cheapest way is to get them from the USA using companies like http://www.everythingg35.com i am with just car and had no issues getting it insured 1400kgs maybe? i was under the assumption it was pretty close, if not the same as the 350z, as it uses the same chassis, engine, gearbox, etc. the only things in japanese are the navigation buttons and the navigation display buttons can be replaced at a cost.. see http://www.audioexpress.com.au in about 2 months the navigation will be able to show english when we have that sorted have you bought a car before? everything is exactly the same except no log books usually. just look the car over - is it in good condition? a car is unroadworthy without a working airbag and they show errors if they aren't working do a search on the forums there are many importers out there.. jspec, prestige, etc. no, the standard navigation does not work here in australia. again, if you have read any of hte threads in this section you will know this. you can upgrade to a different navigation system which uses the stock screen if you want to, see http://www.audioexpress.com.au same as for the nav.. will need to use a new TV unit you get 2 front, 2 side, and 2 curtain airbags my best advice is to read - there is so much info on this forum. go into each thread in this section and read it through, write down any info you think is good if you had read you will find that you would have answered ALL your questions already. plus, you would have even more info for yourself! go the V35, you won't be dissappointed! cheers, Warren
  11. holy shit that's a good effort considering the fuel that would also be in the lines there's probably even less than that in the tank!
  12. ok mine also has a squeak from where the seat buckle mechanism attaches to the seat its a specific squeak that is different to the centre consol squeaks its been a day now with a lot of driving and no centre console squeaks since my felt trick! success!
  13. bump still looking for these, vspec2 pulled out saying "his wife won't let him sell his wheels"
  14. sure its coming from the seat and not the centre console?
  15. good question, seems like a potential upgrade i'm keen on this answer too.. ps why are you yelling?
  16. AFM being buggered can do one of 2 thing 1) go into limp-home mode 2) randomly cut the engine completely when mine went it cut the engine randomly. if i let the car sit for a while it would start and drive fine. no warning, no particular setting, would just do it. hope you find our problem regardlessof what it is but keep an open mind - cars are annoying barstards and if you zero into one fix you can miss others. cheers, Warren
  17. Ok so ever since i've begun pulling things apart on the V35 a few squeaks have begun to appear. there is nothing loose, its just that going over bumps in the road leaves me thinking that this expensive luxury car is worth no more than a cheap silvia. a quick search on G35driver.com and it appears that this is fairly common and there are a few sites which can regularly squeak. G35driver users suggest the parcel shelf, the door trims, the centre console, the upper dash clock mechanism, and the seats as potential sources of rattles. we don't have the analogue clock on our cars so that wasn't a problem. the doors and parcel shelf were also ok. so i had decided that the rattle/squeak was coming from either the drivers seat or the centre console. after driving over bumpy ground i put pressure on the centre piece around the cup holder and the squeak stopped! so i decided i was going to fix it! (and take pictures to share it with everyone ) i have attached pictures at the end for everyone's reference, but i will also outline what i did.. Time required: 1-2 hours Skill-level required: Easy - beginners Tools: - scissors - phillips screwdriver - flat-head screwdriver - adhesive-backed felt - $9.95 from Mitre10 (in the section with hooks and velcro) --> see pictures for more info Step 1: remove the trim the keys need to be in the ignition in order to put the gearstick into drive (with the car not running!). this means you have to close both doors or the car will beep at you for the whole time. now to remove the gearknob the silver piece around the bottom slides down revealing a small clip. if you remove this clip the gearknob will slide right off, followed by the small plastic piece. next we remove the middle piece including the cup holders, the gear surround, and ashtray. to begin lift up the armrest. now, simply lift the trim from the sides at the end where the cupholders is. there are 4 clips that hold it in place and that's it! just lift hard enough and it will come up, allowing you to pull it out. after its loose, in order to take it out fully you will need to disconnect 3 or 4 plugs at the back and out she comes. now, lastly, we need to remove the rear piece where the armrest is. first, take the flat-head screwdriver and pry open the small black piece of trim at the back of the armrest where the hinge enters into the car (see pic). there is 2 small holes there for you to do this. once this is off you can see 4 screws. remove them using the phillips screwdriver. Now, simply lift the whole piece of trim up. there are again 4 clips that hold it in place. the entire cubby area comes up with it in one piece you are now left with the exposed gear selector mechanism and the airbag module --> see picture Step 2: locate potential rattle positions now comes your creativity. the key here is that anywhere where plastic touches plastic is going to be a source of a potential rattle either now or in the future. if you look at the trim you have removed you will even see areas where nisan has put some kind of felt to stop these rattles! you need to find potential spots and keep them in mind Step 3: apply adhesive-backed felt now's the easy/fun part. get your scissors and cut the felt into all sorts of shapes and sizes that will apropriately stick on the spots you have already identified. you can see in my pictures some of the areas that i have done. i made sure to do the areas around where the clips go into the dash as well as heaps of others. probably 20 or so small pieces of felt overall were used. Step 4: replace trim time to replace the trim in the exact order that you removed it. start with the rear piece, then the middle piece, and lastly the gear knob. if you have been thouough then you will find that the extra felt provides some resistance to you clipping it in properly. this is good, as it means that you have definately identified areas that contact in standard positions Step 5: take it for a drive! now go for a drive over bumpy areas to see your handy work! you will be pleasently surprised! I hope this was able to help others. I personally found that it removed >90% of my sequaks/rattles although i have only given it a quick test for 30mins or so, only time will tell how effective it was. cheers, Warren
  18. what you guys want is modicoat http://www.mad-coatings.com/ this is the same as the OEM process for making many brushed aluminium and woodgrain trims its durable, looks great, and it uses your original parts so you know it fits if i were considering a change in colour this is 100% what i would get done
  19. caliper paint is more than durable (you would know this is you REALLY did a search i know there is a lot of info out there because i have personally posted in a few threads on this) if you can get powder coating done cheap then go fot it - that's the ducks nuts but if its going to be a hassle to pull things apart then caliper paint will well and far exceed the expectations of what you need
  20. do you realise you bumper a 2.5 year old thread?
  21. what model stagea? if its the M35, then assuming its got the same gearbox at my auto V35 (i think it is) then i can say its nothing like older auto's, its a far superior piece of kit well worth consideration it actually sounds and feels like driving a manual, not like a normal auto the tiptronic is a very nice piece of kit if you're talking about an older stagea then i cannot comment remember that 99% of the comments you will hear about autoamtics are from people with a manual car that have not driven the car/gearbox you are interested in and are just jumping in with the usual "auto's suck" comments. want some real advice? speak to someone who has driven exactly what you're after. cheers, Warren
  22. hey mate the giveaway is that the car still runs under 2500rpm, this is a clue that the ECU has lost the signal from the AFM and thus isn't sure how much air is getting into the engine. as a result it runs very rick. this can cause the car to either stall or run very rough your answer is probably your AFM is stuffed. its a common problem a cheap and easy fix is to re-solder it yourself if you can work a knife and a soldering iron do a search of +solder +AFM and you will bring up the thread of how to fix it gooc luck! Warren
  23. its the air flow metrem or AFM search for "+solder +AFM" and you will find out an easy and inexpensive way to fix it its becoming a common problem on R32;s as they begin to show signs of their age
  24. can't remember how much i paid, it was a while ago the part number i quoted was 100% for the VQ35 i have it instaleld on my car and it came up in the book did you check under nissan?
  25. excellent, thanks funky could it be either placed as a subsection, or at least linked so that its at the top of the V35 section for easy access for us? maybe we could make it a "for sale" and a "wanted to buy" section combined? it is hard for us as nothing from R32/33/34 fits our cars (nor would we really want it to either!) but would benefit all those cars you mentioned, maybe even cima, fuga etc owners also i second scathing as a moderator..
×
×
  • Create New...