Dose Pipe Sutututu

Not bagging on your system, however on the likes of Haltech or similar you have much more control over what you want to do and how aggressive. You can build traction levels/tables and assign them to a keypad or rotary switch too. You essentially can layer: Fuel cut Ignition reduction Cylinder cuts reduction in boost DC reduction in throttle position RPM limits So depending on the wheel slip you could layer on more and more, this control is far superior to a system that just cuts fuel.

Throttle cut is so 10 years ago, you missed the part where I actually demonstrated simple torque reduction based on wheel slip percentage.

Theoretically no, however I've seen on Guild of EFI many suggesting to grind off teeth OR just count the back of the wheel studs where possible, i.e. 5 events per wheel revolution, or 67 per sec if you're doing about 100km/h on a 255/40/18 tyre (used a tyre calculator online, could be wrong lol).

You'll also find that lowering the resolution, i.e. less teeth to count means you can calculate higher wheels speeds and have less errors. With the Nissan ABS ring there are way too many teeth to count, kind of like how they failed with their CAS design LOL.

Remove it asap! Every S15 I tuned with lean out issues turned out to be running the OEM pressure relief valve in the tank, as soon as you hit about 1 bar or so of boost you see AFRs lean to the moon. Deleted it and had to redo the entire fuel map.

You can't use the factory ABS sensors to do so, as they don't produce a square wave. A potential solution is to use the VSS input and a GPS sensor and then calculate slip percentage between GPS speed vs. VSS. Halaltech does this too, if you're after a cheaper-ish solution. I'm planning on setting up traction on my car too, however will mount a hall effect sensor to one of the front un-driven wheels (I have a GTS-t) and point it at the wheel studs. You can build tables to do things like: slip percentage vs. boost trim slip percentage vs. timing retard slip percentage vs. throttle trim (if you're using DBW) The world is your oyster really, here's one I quickly mocked up in the Haltech

for a slight crackle and pop, just disable the fuel decel function, and on full noise you'll get gifted with fireballs

How about I'll correct it to: Here's hoping I come close to making what@r32-25t was making before his motor exploded and he went full retard

I also have a 76mm Plaz Pro core, was making 407kW with the old motor and setup and never more than 10 degrees above ambient temp at the track. Should be visiting the dyno again soon once I sort out a few small things, I'll share the data from the tuning session. Here's hoping I make close to the same power as @r32-25t

Intima SR all round with DBA4000 T3 standard would do the trick. If money permits, do what @GTSBoy did, R34 GT-t calipers (and bolts can't use the R32 ones) and R34 310mm GT-t rotors. Still uses the DB1170 (Benshit reference) pad which is an IN1170 in Intima, rears are IN1120. Front and rear pads are the same across all R32 to R34 GTS-t and GT-t. If you need Intima or Elig pads, I can help.

You could chemically intercool the karnt, meth spray dis dat.

It is known RBs don't like big rpms, however that's probably more to do with the factory crank and how they're balanced. A stroker or modified factory crank (knife edged, balanced, etc.) would not have the same flaws (characteristics? LOL) as a factory oil pump assassinating crank

Any RB at 10k RPM will sound sensational however we all know RBs aren't the world's smoothest inline 6 either (let's face it, it's no Yamaha 1JZ or 2JZ) so the harmonics will be a fun thing to combat. The ITBs would definitely add a fantastic soundtrack! Very interested in the final product, good luck!

well we all know you thrash the living daylights out of your car, so that's ok If I had a McLaren I would punish it.

Should start with your user requirements and then work backwards, quite pointless running DBA5000, race pads, etc. on a street car with stock power that never gets driven in anger

Sounds like there's an electrical fault, the HICAS system is not connected to the ECU in anyway.

I feel these days (my personal opinion, please DYOR), especially with most of these cars on E85 that single channel EGTs are not as important as measuring EMAP / TIP. EGTs are great, if you're measuring across all cylinders to determine equal combustion across all cylinders however the temperature isn't as important when on E85.

At least your room would smell delicious all the time 😂

It's night and day difference in terms of performance and sound. I didn't go for the silent version, which has the motor externally mounted (cbf installing and we don't plan to live here "that long"). This one is just the conventional style one with the motor sits inside the enclosure. The motor has a lower frequency when operating and you can tell is more refined. Inside there's even an oil catch under the motor which is pretty cool. Will give it a real test this weekend searing a steak 🙂

Long time no house update. So as some of you guys might remember, I ran out of time to find an older house to renovate and ended up with a new duplex built by your typical "property developer" 🙄 Poorly built, heaps of cheap shit appliances but looks good on the eyes kind of place. Anyhow, being Asian and constantly frying food we needed a better rangehood. The junk that came with the house was too small, and also flowed like 250m^3/h at full tilt not to mention sounds as loud as an outdated Soviet jet. Out with the old, in with the new. Schweigen dis dat, 1000m^3/h should help with my cooking (no, I don't eat dog). Why did I use hand tools? My son was having his midday nap. It was sure hard work!

at the moment yes, and so far (from the very limited driving) there hasn't been any issues yet - time will tell. It's a -12 return. BK is now patiently waiting for a new thread "Just blew my turbo, should I go G40-900 or 6266?" LOL

All valid points as listed, however (this is just my opinion) since the turbo is off and all, it's not a huge investment to have your oil pressure always fixed for the turbo. I would imagine the seals would prefer that rather than varying pressure. When my 2nd motor went in, I got the guys at Birrong to install the OPR right after the oil feed and then have it drained back into the sump on the turbo oil return. Just makes the engine bay look a tad neater

Just run an oil filter and an oil pressure regulator for the turbo and enjoy many years of fun. At least it won't spit out turbine wheels if you run too much boost or run them on a hot day or hit the limiter or yell at your car.

I must have skimmed that part of the PDS and never committed it to memory as my shit box is always parked in a garage, generally I'm pretty good at reading them. Might have another read before there are any parts I've missed!

Wow, that's intense!