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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Yes you can, however your traction control won't work where you are spinning all 4 wheels. You need a GPS sensor to make the traction strategy work with a 4WD car work properly.
  2. Everyone too busy going to get pissed at the pubs and hitting music festivals. My Aussie mates living there doing just that lol.
  3. Feels like it's a box out affair now. Nearly feels like the throw out bearing has been installed backwards (hence the noise you've mentioned). A single disc clutch should not make any rattling noises at all.
  4. Take a photo of your clutch pedal, the pedal limit bolt (can't recall the right name) and the clutch rod going into the master. I feel that the adjustment might be at play here as you're using the factory slave and the correct bearing carrier as supplied by ACS.
  5. Are you using a Nismo slave? If so go get an OEM one. The Nismo slave, although more heavy duty and provides lighter pedal feel actually decreases overall travel. This was what Scott at Western Clutch in St Mary's told me and advised at the time (on my previous shit box) to revert back to OEM when he did my clutch.
  6. Very potato photo, just took it as I was leaving as my mate asked where I was heading in the R33. Left about 8am and took a very extended drive to Meat Emporium to pick up wagyu lololol. Night before pulled out the laptop and set 1bar of boost, 17 degrees of timing mid range and 19 up top. Safe as shit and closed loop O2 to take care of the rest. Gave it many jabs to 8k rpm (limiter is 8500rpm). Must say, it's very linear in terms of power, where as before with smaller cams and the OEM intake manifold/plenum you could feel a big surge of torque coming on. Probably put it on the dyno soon, when I have time. Alex from Birrong has been asking me when I'm bringing it in, I'm sure he's keen too (as the choice of parts isn't what he's used to putting together).
  7. Also are you still running the factory CAS or has that been modified to just only return a home signal? If that's OEM I would swap it out for a NZ Wiring cam trigger kit, 24 -1 setup but you won't have triggering errors like the OEM optical wheel Also brakes wise, look at 355mm 370Z calipers using Z1 Motorsport adaptors. Should be plenty for your car and track work when paired with decent pads.
  8. Jesus that looks fun 😍
  9. And they're good at limiter bashing. Americans would cry over this:
  10. Do like that turbo drain, will not catch on fire
  11. Sexual manifold, dat split to the seat of the gate
  12. Is this traction setup for circuit racing or drag/roll racing? If it's for drag, straight line business see if you can adapt a GPS sensor. You can then calculate slip percentage (road speed) between the drive wheel & the actual position of the car. For circuit racing, you would ideally want both front wheels fed in vs. the rear driven wheels.
  13. Hey SAU Gang, Slowly pulling things off the shelf to sell to make room for my future M3 if anyone is idiotic enough to swap me their stock M3 for my somewhat stupid money pit R33 shitbox (yeah, pipe dream 😂) $100 Plazmaman R33 RB25 Fuel Rail Will suit 1/2 height injectors under the factory plenum without any silly plenum spacers. Comes as pictured with injector bosses and rail spacers. This was used with my old setup and Bosch 1550cc (aka 1650cc) injectors. Can be used with other 1/2 height injectors with ease. $150 R33 S2 GTS-t RB25DET Intake Manifold/Plenum DOES NOT come with both water temp sensors and does not come with injectors or rail. Does come with IACV, AAC, throttle body, PCV, etc. Plenum seal would have seen about less than 5000km of use before the engine exploded. Great for someone doing some conversion OR as a spare for a cut/shut FFP. $10 RB25 thermostat housing, 35mm outlet. Taken from blown motor, no signs of cavitation or corrosion. Good for replacing cooked ones. Location: Cabramatta, NSW 2166
  14. Nek minnit Brett installs a RB25DET NEO head because has VCT GT-t-R
  15. You need flyback diodes, if not your SSRs would be ripping hot and will fail with time.
  16. Look at us, all so modern Love it - running all pumps full tilt all the time is stupid!
  17. ooo I lied, I run it at 200hz It's 100AMP Jaycar SSR, with flyback diodes on each Walbro 450L
  18. Interesting you've done yours off injector duty cycle, though not wrong it's interesting (to me that is). Here's mine:
  19. no more silly AFR hunting at idle, regardless of fuel temp or big injectors Haltech is great, provided it's used properly.
  20. I always say this on Guild of EFI on Facebook, if the laptop can load up pornhub then it will load up any modern tuning software. 1920x1080 screen is good.
  21. I would not stage the pumps and duty cycle them together and ramp them up based on MAP (as the load axis). At 100hz, the Walbro 450/460s don't like any duty under 40% they start to make an awful hum, however any higher they seem ok! I suspect your pumps wouldn't be too far off that. Part of the problem you have is 1x pump is always at full filt _ your lift pump. They're heating up your fuel unnecessarily. Also, if you have proper injector data and fuel data i.e. fuel temp vs fuel density vs. ethanol then there's no real issue with warm fuel. This is how I've done mine (note must tuning shops will not do this, as customers don't pay them enough for their time - Link and MoTec have this predefined).
  22. On the track (as in a circuit not a 400 straight line) I've seen my fuel temps go above 65 degrees after 10 laps of Wakefield. Day to day driving around town probably 30s to 40s, mind you I run PWM so both pumps in the surge are duty cycled. The DW200 lift pump however is just on factory wiring with the resistor deleted. And no your fuel temp isn't that high.
  23. I haven't done it just yet on mine, as of late I haven't had much spare time to tinker however I believe if you expose part of the dust shield you'll be able to see the wheel studs. This would be an ideal solution on a non ABS car, however if you wish to retain ABS then this won't work. Or if both the above is too hard basket, just use a GPS sensor and calculate the percentage slip based on rear wheel speed vs GPS speed (similar to how AWD, 4WD guys would control traction).
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