Dose Pipe Sutututu

Ok EFRs are better, happy? They're the best. Don't buy anything else because they're shit. According to know it all @Lithium I'm an idiot.

Every single way? Over speed them momentary and see what happens with the BW. 372.8kW is not a lot... Crossing 400kW is.

Wow! End of an era, luckily you still have access to it for a steer here and there

Pleb setup lol.. just a 2.5L with cheapie forged parts (CP Pistons, Manley H beams), 264/272 9.6mm w/ VCT retained, planned 2bar, GTX3576R Gen2 with divided 1.01, Sinco TS manifold. Need to book a dyno to tune it when I have time.

Very fair points as well, I suppose this is why talking to an engine builder with decades of RB experience helps. I pretty much just took guidance from whatever Alex at Birrong Automotive recommended.

FWIW in my pleb motor shit box, I have 80 lb springs in there, I suspect any softer it would valve lift with the boost it sees. I can't imagine @The Mafia's setup being anywhere near pleb level.

Then you face another problem with valve lift when big boost/rpm are introduced

Manifold sold

I suspect it will be revs to 5 digits.

Yep me too, DCT/DSGs are so 2012. ZF slushie boxes are shifting at 150ms and don't suffer from low speed knocks, bumps, roll backs etc.

Don't worry, won't be long till @Old man 32 GTR puts in a RB34 with a Samsonas

Correct, try unplug the idle plugs, unplug the TPS and adjust the idle screw till it idles just a tad under the target RPM. At the same time, you might as well check your base timing and also set your TPS. (All the above is complete waste of time on an aftermarket ECU as you can offset the lot, except when there's too much air allowed through the IACV).

Try closing up your IACV a bit, could be now there's too much air being bled back via the IACV and your factory ECU is shaving timing to keep the idle at target. This is why I love DBW, you piss off the IACV and AAC air leaks.

In theory I know how to set it up, and know how to adapt different strategies to manage torque such as reduce timing on wheel slip (and ramp the time retard as wheel slip % increases), and/or apply the same on the DBW throttle body as wheel slip increases you decrease the max amount the throttle can open. For boost applications you can even trim duty cycle etc. Then all of that you can even throw on-top random cylinder cuts to reduce large amounts of torque. I'm planning to install either a front wheel speed sensor OR (lazy way out) a GPS sensor and calculate slip % then apply whatever strategy above works most effectively and efficiently. Just avoiding the full cut traction strategy of boring A to B OEMs.

Wot, damn... Money they couldn't resist I suppose.

Great price on the injectors, way cheap.

I'm guilty too, I whinge and whinge but the heap of shit is still parked in the garage with a felt car cover and a CTEK on it 😅

My apologies @GTSBoy, won't happen again!

You sound like every other jaded and cynical Nissan owner, this is why a M2/3/4/5 makes so much sense. Throw on semi slicks and you'll carve out sensational lap times with a chai latte in one hand, classical music on and climate control regulating your race environment. My car is finally kind of done, and I don't want to even drive it now. In 3x months I've driven it 5 times, shit box.

Man what is with these Nissans? All they do is rob you of time and money lol

Took months to sort this out, just time/motivation/priorities but managed to replace the stuffed Haltech/Ti Automotive 10bar pressure sensor with an EFI Solutions 10bar stainless steel sensor. Hopefully it lasts longer than the previous one? I was going to replace the faulty sensor with a Bosch item, however interwebs users reckon the diaphragm dies and you'll have fluid pissing out of the connector. Wasn't keen on seeing an oil fountain so just replaced with something similar with the same connector. Sensor check appears good now, also decided to stuff about with the Ignition Zero Demand table to give the car more street credit at the lights, will start it up on the weekend and record a video to prove I'm cool with braps lol.

I vote Tao from @hypergear turbos, I've used 3x of his products before in various stages of my shit box build.

This would be a great temporary, temporary permanent work around until your new gasket comes.

You know me Duncan, OEM++ methodology now 😊 not to mention the amount of times I've had things melt off/blown off/explode. I borrowed the bender and flare tool from my mate who runs Yez Racing. Took a bit of time and wastage to get there but did it in the end. The oil drain was too hard at the time but it seems you can adapt oil drains from turbo charged heavy machinery onto the turbo. Job for next time.