Dose Pipe Sutututu

Drag car, roll Racing car. Will never see transient throttle OR any kind of circuit racing. Insert maximum kW at 8k RPM figure and talk in American HP to make it sound even better.

Only fronts. Rears you will need to cut off the mounting tabs and weld on new ones OR weld on the GKTech ones.

Should have just did a test with OEM vs. Plazmaman single TB plenum. That would have been a good comparison.

Hmm not too sure, been so lazy and unmotivated to do any car content. I should though, these days I tend to just post up on IG about the mods & thought process.

Not a great comparison, however this is on Alex from Birrong Automotive's personal weekender G40-900, twin scroll, on a (as he calls it) basic 3.2L 2JZ and drop in cams made 574kW at the rear hubs with boost dropping down to about 2.1bar towards the rev limiter. https://www.instagram.com/p/CWp1MLnBIQ3/

350Z 324mm Brembos bolt up (use existing R34 GT-t caliper bolts & brake line).

100% Should replace the cabin light lens and all, I ordered all new ones too. They're actually CLEAR! not that yellow colour I see in every Skyline.

@r32-25t this one actually is "kinda" new, bought it when I popped in the 1st new motor and rarely drove it (sat on the CTEK charger all week). Battery was never discharged and also rarely started on. Would have been about 3 years old? Prior to that I had a smaller D51TR and that went for 7 years until it died when I blew the factorymotor and sat around not on a charger. They make great batteries, however never discharge them as they just die.

The battery does hold enough charge to start the car, I actually started at the shop and in the driveway (when I stalled it lolol). It just got ripping hot when I got home (signs of a sulphated battery) and discharged to like 10V by the afternoon. Yeah that's what I told the fabricator to do to wake up the battery - which he did and got to to charge on his shop charger (probably killed the battery further too by over suppling current to it when it was dead). Skd video once I've tuned it RECOND mode is not recommended for AGM, will torch the cells! I'm thinking of getting a Fullriver HC44 or HC50. I kind of like the idea of Lithium, however most on the market are not designed for cranking. Sure you see them used on EVOs and Hondas, but remember they're a 4 banger, so it's a bit easier on the starter and power consumption. It's been going for 2 days now, still stuck on Stage 3 - meaning it's not holding charge long enough for the charger to go to the next charge Stage. Maybe it's time for a new battery, barely even used this battery but yeah AGMs don't like getting discharged to 0%

Now trying to resuscitate the Optima D34 deep cycle battery but looks like it's forked. Different workshops just left the car connected and the alarm/dashcam, etc. all slowly drained the battery till it was dead flat. The cells have probably all sulphated hence it got stupid hot when I drove it home and started to vent hydrogen lololol. It has been on the CTEK for 3 days, however won't go past Step 3 of the charge program. Might try out these Fullriver HC44 or HC50 batteries, been reading on 4WD forums they're better built and better value than the Optima batteries.

Put it into Google Keep as a checklist OR go full agile and put it into a kanban in Trello or similar. Nek minnit, Dan: WTT M2 for S13 track build & parts catalogue

that's a problem itself, aftermarket pumps consume more current than the OEM wiring can handle - not to mention the OEM drop resistor isn't very helpful in keeping these modern pumps alive. You need to wire it properly OR PWM them.

ID stopped pushing and selling those 2000/2200cc injectors due to so many issues with E85. Most likely you have the 0280158(821 or 843) variant.

Home time, it was really strange driving such an unrefined car, I even turned on the wipers a few times on the way back. Last time I drove it on the street was back in October 2020 before the motor went bang with the old Autosalon Shitbox Purple paint job and today it felt like I hopped into someone else's car to drive back (especially weird feeling as I took out the bucket seat as it was dumped in an industrial complex for a few months). American JDM purists will hate me, I powder coated that GReddy strut brace black 😂

@klutched twin scroll converted

I'm waiting for someone that misses some 90s nostalgia to straight swap me their M3 F80 LCI lol...

You you need to do: delete pedal delete throttle body delete IACV delete AACV (not sure RB26 use both but in the bin) install Bosch DBW install either 350Z or V35 Skyline (semi bolt on) or just get a Bosch pedal and make brackets wire up AVI 2 to 5 to the pedal & TB, wire up DBW 1 & 2 to the TB calibrate start engine If you're really bored, have a read of my build thread

Since you're running an Elite 2500, you'll be silly not to throw all that AAVC, IACV junk into the trash and install a Bosch DBW throttle body. You'll have superb idle control, flat shift capabilities, throttle blips, etc.

Great start! Typical SR torque/power flies straight up, nearly perpendicular to the X axis lol. Running an intake cam gear? Advance it a bit to get more low down and make that torque ramp a bit more linear.

this is why I recommend it, and to your other point if you have a decent about of blow by and a closed loop breather system then yes you'll get the card dirty with time - however what is stopping the conventional setup getting as dirty from pod filters that use oil additives? Also means if you blow of a cooler pipe the car will run fine as a N/A.

Wow, fk me that's dedication! Great work and great to see another boat saved.

Turbo God has spoken, hard to argue that.

Weld a R35 card AFM post intercooler, select you're running 1x AFM and a R35 card. Adjust the TP Load scaler and off you go. Also don't wire it to chassis ground, make sure it's sensor ground (ie the ground that goes back to the ECU). Don't bother with twin AFMs.

Check out Ben at Third Strike Fabrications (ex Hypertune fabricator) does some pretty nice S13 LCA change overs with new ball joints pressed in

Photos aren't too clear, however it "appears" to be not too deep.. could new bearings and quick crank linish do the job?