Dose Pipe Sutututu

Just search for a fuel pump change tutorial or post here. Should be the same (minus the fuel pump swap)

Hope this helps https://www.efisolutions.com.au/fuel-tank-seal-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-wc34-c11-t30-t3 It sits between the tank and the fuel tank lid (whatever it's called) followed by a locking ring around it. Can be a CNUT to take off with out the tool, but a piece of wood and a small hammer gets it off pretty easy. When re-installing I suggest some form of lubricant like lithium grease or KY lolol

Or could be the seal where the fuel tank lid goes, perhaps whoever changed the fuel pump in the past cocked up the installation.

Wow, just wow...

I should be able to provide those details soon, however won't be a clean comparison 🤓 Same-ish engine, nearly like for like (new motor, same displacement, same turbo setup, same valve springs, just different intake manifold, different cams) Not exactly like for like but good enough. Tomei 260/260 9.15mm vs. Kelfords 264/272 9.60mm

Yes

Brembo & Sumitomo 4 pot calipers use the same fitting. FWIW when I installed S15 4 pistons on my 180SX I just reused the OEM line but removed the olive inside. For added braking capacity, install R34 GT-t brakes. They use the DB1170 pad (same as S14/15/R32/33) but run on 310mm rotors.

That's pretty decent in terms of pricing, tempting LOL..

I have a complete OEM R33 RB25DET intake manifold with Plazmaman Billet top feed rail for 1/2 height 14mm injectors if you're struggling with mixing and matching parts. Would like $300 for it.

too fast, too furious

@Jack_Dubz if you're planning on running Drive by Wire sure launch it. However I suspect you're not so that needs to go into your plenum as that's the idle control valve. Also I recommend installing OEM coil packs OR Splitfires OR R35 coils, whatever you have there will end up being another topic on SAU asking why your car is misfiring.

I might try out the Direct Clutch twin plate, they run a mixed setup. 1x plate is organic 1x plate is ceramic Which in theory makes it driveable, from what I hear it seems to be quite nice to drive from a handful of people. I've yet to experience this myself.

Better as a door stopper or as a wheel chock. Going into the bin isn't good for the environment unless it goes into an e-waste bin.

You need to lock the timing in the Link ECU then sync it, then unlock it. It could be pulling timing on idle as part of the idle strategy. Also if the car is running fine, don't touch it. Your tuner may have tuned the car with timing out so the entire map has been offset by that.

Seems like these days (with massive boost), most workshops are fitting massive catch cans and returning them to the sump. I've fit my shit box with a ball valve to switch from street duties (no return) to break stock gearbox mode (return to sump). Or fit a 2JZ lol.

Radiator and fan sold Still have the gates timing belt, great for someone that just wants to get their car going or to just test something. Happy for it to go for free if anyone wants it.

Should wind back your odometer so when you deregister, it has low kms on it. You know us Australians froth over low KMs, even if it means nothing at all.

Or just install a wideband, and also set it up for closed loop O2 control (for future). Good to see what your fuel mixtures are at

Nice wheels, looks tough

I have a soft spot for the late model SQ5s, we hired one in SA for a week and I can dare say it's the best car we've ever driven (all rounder). It was fast, made stupid growly noises, ZF box, AWD (RWD bias), comfy, quiet when it needed to be, handled VERY well for a car that size. You would easily have thought you were in a Golf R going around corners!

Or could be someone put in the thrust bearing in backwards and now it's stuffed, although a cheap part to replace the labour cost more. Dump oil first, then next box off inspect thrust / throwout bearing whatever it's called these days

Also food for thought, you buy billet gears, then a new housing and it ends up costing very close to a new Nitto oil pump. I've done the following: Engine No. 1 - Old housing, new Spool v1.0 gears Gears eventually developed pitting and all sorts of crap Suspect due to clearance issues and gears moved about causing cavitation (broscience) Start up oil pressure issues Engine No. 1 - New Housing, New Spool v2.0 gears Oil pressure issue seem to be resolved No start up oil pressure issues Oil pump worked a bit too good, kept filling the head/catch can, etc. on track days Binned motor from oil starvation Engine No. 2 - Nitto Oil Pump Oil pressure amazing Also have a 5L catch can draining back to sump Nitto Head drain/crank case vent installed Hope to never talk about oil issues again

If you're planning to run N1 style gears, you'll need a RB26 or RB25DET NEO oil pump. They won't fit in a R32/R33 RB25DE/T housing. Also I suggest you get a brand new pump then fit billet gears to them, this will allow a better fit and also reduce any unwanted movement. I did the whole N1 gears in a RB25DET NEO pump that had probably 300k km+ on it. Let's say it didn't work out well.

I made the assumption @RB335 sent them a used R32 block, that would implied it would already have an engine serial on it.

And it's in a spot where you need to be really blind or mentally retarded not to be able to locate.