Dose Pipe Sutututu

Turbo your freshly swapped LS

understand, however let's say this, for both (hotter air intake vs. cooler air intake) the: post FMIC IATs are the same, let's make up an arbitrary number 40 degrees Celsius boost source is tapped for the actuator pre throttle post intercooler, let's say post intercooler it's measured at 1.5bar altitude is the same, so 100kPA (probably useless variable to have in this hypothetical) I doubt there will be a massive difference in power produced, yes maybe a tiny bit difference because now the turbo needs to spin just that little harder to make up for the lack of pressure (due to air density, pre intercooler) so the EGTs might me a little higher or a lot (depending on how much harder the turbo needs to work). If you were looking at logs, EGTs, turbo turbine RPM yes there might be a "huge" difference, but the end result wouldn't be much different from a pod filter without shielding to a pod filter with shielding. Not sure if I am even making sense to the masses anymore.

Drop the cat completely and take the car for a quick squirt.. could be exhaust restriction somewhere making the turbo lazy. Also are those RPM from the ECU/ECU logs or off the dash? I've noticed on some Nissan the dash displays RPM which were a inconsistent to what the ECU was showing.

IATs matter the most post intercooler and not pre.. you could have chilled air being compressed and fed through non efficient intercooler and you'll make less power, prone to more knock than a setup that's compressing super hot air and flowing through a very efficient intercooler.. your car will make more power, will have a lower chance of knocking. So yeah, pod or airbox does not really matter.. However for cars running a AFM, AFM voltages may change going from an airbox to a pod setup.

CHINA RACING better than OEM

No it won't, and stock airbox doesn't flow too well. I pulled mine off and ran a straight pipe with no filter and made an extra 13kW on the dyno.

SOLD!

Post up your alignment sheet and yes tyres sound old. Probably hard as shit lol Here's an idea, buy another Skyline. Wobbly end fixed

BUMP

BUMP

+ why would you install 565cc injectors up from 440cc.. mad waste of time/effort. Just go 2200cc or so

I had one, shameless admission in 2 years I had it, it went through like 4 power steering pumps, 2 alternators, 1 crank sensor

Scott is awesome, knows his imports very well and will build a pressure plate to your liking (clamp wise and pedal feel). He modified a 10" NPC clutch kit for me and the pedal feels softer than a Corolla (I am not kidding here, it's softer than a stock clutch kit) but the thing clamps 1900 kg

how I see it (feel free to ignore)... These cars are shit boxes that are fast, handle well and cost more than they should... they're no Ferrari or no 2015 GT-R, so worrying about a few psi across a 20 year old motor is pointless. It's like a Commodore VN owner doing a compression test on their 25 year old lump of shit and whinging about a 20psi difference between the boat anchor.

I bought my shit box, didn't bother to do a comp test because I was too lazy and it was cold lol (had the gauge and socket set on me too) and still haven't done one 3 years later.Also not to mention I screw in more boost than 90% of owners and thrash the shit out of it on the track. Once it does grenade, I'll just throw in a 2nd hand motor and do the same thing. Moral of the story, thrash it till it blows up. Leak down test or compression tests are pointless once you've already bought the car IMHO.

Car is 20 years old man, if it runs then be happy with that, then pop in new ARP studs and screw in tons of boost, bake tyres and smile

I like the 3rd option most, or call up Scott at Western Clutch. He deals with heaps of NPC stuff and modifies them to suit need, etc.

why would you? haha

I'll go one up, a M156 motor.. push rods are ghey

+ ARP studs and boost errday

FSM = Facebook Service Manual It's so awesome, like telling each other it's ok to drive to an inspection station with a red label LOL

possible and it sounds your oil cooler is chilling it however there should be some flow when cold to constantly flow oil through the core (however much less than at operating temp)

try cover up the core with cardboard so there's no airflow.. see if it stablises around water temperature (provided you still run the OEM heat exchanger)

Time to upgrade ppl on stock OEM radiators! This will fit R33 and R34 too, just not R32 unless you've got some hectic bonnet clearance.

Now off the car, do yourself a favour if you've got smaller calipers and upgrade!