Dose Pipe Sutututu

get longer FMIC piping LOL... add additional longer sections for no reason

Smaller pipe, with more bends will dose hard

Sell car, buy GTt Or motor out, bin, NEO DET motor in.

dose scares off Hondas

$20 more and I'll throw in that wooden stool that I use for photoshoots for most of my car parts, guaranteed to make bitches wet and soak their panties and your R33 GT-R passenger seat in your GTS-t with ROTA GRIDS.. fuuuuuarkkkkkkkkkkkkk

Errbody loves a photo

I do want to sell the car and get a Ford Focus RS lol

$30 take it away!

Did you damage the ABS sensor or nip the hub when you popped on new rotors? Or did you sever the ABS cord?

I find that RBs don't like too much timing and generally "flat" because of the torque output of the motor is quite "flat" (a good thing). For example (rpm vs. timing) on 98: 4000 - 20 4400 - 20 4800 - 20 5200 - 21 5600 - 21 6000 - 22 6400 - 22 6800 - 23 and so on... however on E85 or water meth you can throw a few more up top to give it a more of a ramp 4000 - 23 4400 - 23 4800 - 23 5200 - 24 5600 - 24 6000 - 25 6400 - 26 6800 - 28 (those are arbitrary numbers I've made up, please don't use them)

From my experience, say if a car takes x amount of timing on 98RON - on E85 or similar water/meth that particular load point at y rpm will take 4~5 degrees more timing and make more power and torque. But very hard to say in your situation without a dyno. I usually start with a flat timing map then add timing till I start to see less power gains throughout the RPM range, then I determine where max torque is achieved and where it starts to heavily decay. This is where timing can be added (from where the torque decays) and then same thing, see if the motor will take timing at that point onwards. Usually if 1x degree of extra timing makes less than 5kW of power it's pretty much a sign to stop adding timing. Take whatever I say as only information, every motor, every fuel combination, every tuner etc.. is different. Also a good way to preserve motors is to run it richer at peak torque. The cars I tune (mostly for friends) run about 11.5 AFR at peak torque then lean up to about 12afr all the way to redline (that's E85 converted to Gasoline scaling).

dirty plug, but if anyone wants a stock RB20DET/25DET manifold with already 55mm extended studs fitted of which 38mm is exposed at a minimum. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463178-fs-syd-rb20det-rb25det-stock-manifold-with-extended-studs-for-hektics/ Good for Hypergear turbo upgrades

800cc injectors, so you can run 40psi usually people divide the injector by 20.

but that has single synchros LOL

Take a photo underneath of how those two pipes merge.

Might need more of a description and photos in order to help you. However that turbo sits at the stock location so technically it's like working on a stock motor.

Should output it to virtual dyno and work out where max torque is. Then once you're able to determine where max torque is you can started ramping the timing up towards the top. Because you're running water/meth with those timing figures, you'll fine Hard to purely say from timing numbers without a few dyno runs to determine the finer detail.

But you have a sequential lol

I always like to tune dose to boost ratio, add boost to gain maximum dose. Once you've reached maximum dose turn it down 2x points.

Drop in stock cams

Flush the box clean and use Nulon Smooth Shift and then add another tube of the addictive.

Then it will eat all your synchros away (like it did in my car) Do not use Redline Shockproof if you want the box to last. I made that mistake, now my box grinds 3rd to 5th.

Hello, I have a stock manifold from a R33 RB25DET that came from Edward Lees.. probably has 1/2 a million kms on it but it's still makes the bitches wet. So what is up for sale? A stock RB25DET manifold with 55mm studs, of which 38mm are exposed. Great for mounting massive turbos to you ticking time bomb, also 4x matching nuts. So why buy mine? well... chances are when you try to remove your existing studs you'll snap them.. then will curse for a good 3 hours.. then you will try to buy another manifold and repeat the same process.. hopefully it won't snap... but yeah, then comes the part where you try to buy the extended studs locally and fail miserably because no one stocks that shit. YOU BUY NOW, MANY AWESOMES. Price: $55 OR a slab of James Squire 150 Lashes OR White Rabbit..(won't accept any rank shit beer) Location: Canley Vale

or someone has welded a straight pipe to a 180 degree bend LOL

yes.. but when key is still in and motor stalls.. fuel pump still pumps