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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. don't go changing the base timing now.. you will stuff up your tune
  2. always run richer at peak torque then you can lean up a little bit once torque drops off.
  3. I would try bleed the ABS lines first, go around the block and safely try and kick the ABS then head back for a rebleed of the unit followed by bleeding your brakes again
  4. thanks man! we're are building the eComm at the moment But if you need brake pads, plazmaman intercoolers we can help out!
  5. rraawwwRRrrrrrr... (waits for all the fan boys to come on and say it's the best ECU in the world because it has a hand controller)
  6. No and why would you? It can be done but why waste the effort hacking up your loom? Get a Nistune man, they're light years ahead of PowerFC dinosaurs rrAwwrr
  7. mine has been going strong for a while.. regularly gets thrashed on the track too More so you need better studs, as the stock ones stretch when you start making decent power
  8. I agree too lean, on 98RON especially at peak torque you want it rich.. nearly pig rich to keep it cooler. When I work with 98, I drop it down to 11.5afr even richer depending on how small the turbo is. Larger turbos "breathe" better so there is a lower chance of knocking. Before you start doing anything silly, how's your timing belt? best to take off the cover and turn your crank to TDC and see if everything is aligned correctly.
  9. Does that mean that you will need to idle down the car like an old truck after each drive? Water and oil cooling has many benefits, unless the CBB is different
  10. can I get mine changed to "Dose Pipe Sutututu" ? haha
  11. when the time is right, get a dose pipe
  12. take a photo of how the hoses are hooked up.. Wouldn't surprise me at all if your "mechanic" has used the hose from the intake as a pressure source to the actuator.
  13. Also missing the GTX3576 ... spool/response is nearly-ish the same as a GTX3076 but it will make more up top. To find good comparisons, look on the NAISOC forums... heaps of testing back to back on GTX3076 vs. GTX3576
  14. Anything but Cometic (i.e. don't use them) HG will do the trick. Stock bore is 86mm, however "usually" when people slot in new pistons they clean up the block and naturally that increases the bore. RB25DET NEO motors are stronger though... there's a 34GeeTeeTee on this forum making close to 400kW with stock HG, stock studs on his track car.
  15. stock internals will do over 350kW easily.. just need a set of decent headstuds in there and if the OEM gasket is getting a little old a basic Tomei one with some ARP2000 studs will happily let you put silly amounts of boost into the motor.
  16. I'm going Wakefield 30th of May, Performance-Wise can come put their coils in and I thrash it's mum on the track... if it misfires I will post up it misfired vs. my run of the mill "sub-par" Splitfires.
  17. needs a dose pipe LOL in other news, Costco has cheap synthetic oil, great for your application... start/run/dump
  18. a GTX3071R TS with a decent enough rear end on a proper TS manifold and twin gates will shit all over that dinosaur GT3076 Will make more power, will come on earlier and transient will be like a virgin blowing their load all over Miranda Kerr for the first time.
  19. hahah I don't have a build thread, but the closest thing to it is all my DIY shit on www.trak-life.com
  20. ASI or Worley direct then make sure you file down the sensor bung for the overheat thermofan and you'll be sweet. Don't go more than 43mm if you want to run your stock shroud without it collecting your fan blades at high RPM
  21. because it's a TDi (I assume) can you install a dose pipe and record it going suuuuuuuuuu tututuuuuuuuuu tuuuu for us? much appreciated
  22. SARD / PE are at least a little bit better than Five O garden hoses lol.
  23. go directly to them: http://npcperformance.com.au/contact-us/ if you can speak to Doug and tell him that some crazy Skyline boys recommended
  24. When does "boost" all come in on the road say in 3rd or 4th gear? sometimes dyno operators don't calibrate the derived RPM vs. road speed properly and it reads off.
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