hahahha... prick, well once this motor grenades I might do something more fun. It's looks nicer now, more black in it now
better go twin scroll too, single scroll is gaids
irrelevant, however a properly designed plenum will net you more power up top with some loss of down low..
The likes of Plazmaman OR CPC uses the factory runners so you don't lose the low down like those GReddy plenums or fake alternatives.
If it is the pink one then yes, as they're remanufactured (albeit new) pressure plates by Exedy.
The "sports" range uses a silver/raw finish pressure plate from Japan and lasts much longer however pedal effort is horrible.
Better off with a NPC clutch, which funny enough uses all Exedy parts which have been tricked up
Power Enterprise injectors are absolute junk Tao!
At that rate you might as well get Five O junk too lol.
Better off with Nismo 740cc injectors and be naughty and set the base pressure at 3.5 bar.
^but if you cut 2x sets of holes on your manifolds and weld up external gates then you resolve that choking issue
Still doesn't stop twins being gaids.
till they crumble on you and your brakes don't work..
I thought the same, put a set of Bendix CT pads on the daily because I needed some ASAP and didn't have time to order decent pads and they turned to absolute shit.
I took them out, took photos and sent them to Bendix Australia... they didn't say much and sent me back a set of Bendix HD and that was it.
Also about 6~7 years ago, I always thought Bendix was awesome, put a set of Bendix Ultimates on my old R33 and it squealed, chewed rotors like a crack wh0re and faded even going though the Royal National Park. Moved to QFM A1RM and that fixed everything.
Now fast forward 7 years I refuse to use any of the 2x brands mentioned in this post.
Make sure you get a thermostat that opens up at 76 degrees.. not the R34 GT-t one which opens up like at 82 degrees or so.
Then invest in an eBay radiator, the likes of ASI or Worley work perfectly fine (better than stock) on a street and light track car.
well if you don't mind some electrical load then installed a fuel cooler & a thermofan switched at x temp by your ECU with the flex sensor sending back the fuel temperature.
please don't get those god awful pads.. you might as well be using 2x sheets of glass as brake pads.
At least go with Intima Pads, Project Mu, EBC, Hawk, Ferrodo, and as much as I dislike QFM yes go with them.. no Bendix.. YUCK!
btw.. I can get Intima Pads at a good price, PM me if you're interested.
give or take a few years, you'll end up doing it LOL
more power, more torque, more response, more cheaper, less heat issues, less piping, less hoses to fail, less shuffle, less blown rear turbo
hahaha
no need for these things:
1) Front facing plenum
2) Upsized Throttle Body
Many people make silly power without the need for those items. Just get a Plazmaman swept back kit, similar to what i have on my car:
I can help you with sourcing the kit too if you want, as trak-life is a Plazmaman reseller
100% happy with them, my friends and I have privately booked out Wakefield Park on the 30th of May for more testing/racing
max. 30 cars only, we have filled up 23 spots at $235 per head. If anyone is interested, please PM me (and hoepfully you have facebook) and I'll add you to the group.
People usually use post OEM relay to trigger their relay setup (so relay on relay).. what you need to do is actually take the trigger off your OEM relay ECU to trigger your new relay setup.
I've done this on many cars and no issues. Alternatively a SSR is a better solution but they are pricey and often need heatsinks to work efficiently.