Dose Pipe Sutututu

I too grew up in Fairfield and witnessed all that monstrosity however, there are still a few kitted up Lancers and Excels floating about...

just installed it at work, Maxx Tuning that is... a few things: where's the map tracing option? no quick VE tuning? no engine protection such as low fuel pressure, low oil pressure, water temp, oil temp, etc. however does have EGT, AFR protection but not enough IMO can't view timing map and fuel map at the same time (then again other brands you can't except Nistune.. I love nistune haha) Decent launch control settings, anti lag settings and also rev cut - especially the fuel cut + ignition cut after x rpm Over all by just assessing the software it's not too bad.. but real world could be a different thing. Didn't know Andy released a new package.. I do like the release notes: Release Note: NOT recommend for tuning actual engines at the moment.

I'm currently running a full 3" system with no step downs, however with a screamer... I will be redoing it sometime this year and plumbing everything back and running a 3.5" turbo back, however I'm going to be sneaky and plumb the screamer back after the cat Smells legal when the gate is shut, not so legal when the gate opens haha

They're good as paper weights. I only bought replacement ones because the car already came with them, after replacing 2x coils and still having misfires I just bit the bullet and bought Splitfire coils and haven't looked back. However if I could have a stab at it again, I would just convert straight to LS coils.

If you're plumbing your gate back 100% go 3.5" even 4". If you're running a screamer, you can get away with a 3" based on your estimate power goals. Bigger is always better.

GUI looks good, will download it at work and have a play.

Bring it back for a check up, I'm sure Trent won't mind or ask for much extra.

I cooked 2 out of the 6 Yellow Jackets I got, replaced them.. then kept misfiring, even with plugs gapped at 0.5mm... so I took them out in lieu of brand new Splitfires.. I now run upwards of 23 psi no misfire Buy either OEM or Splitfire or convert to LS coils or similar.. those colourful coilpacks are all junk (trying to avoid naming names) Also your lower power reading could be from your poor spark performance

GTX3576 in twin scroll, twin gates, twin screamers (out of the bonnet) on a freshened up RB25DET NEO (maybe RB30DET NEO?) would be a response king and make 400kW+ easily. Although, if RB30DET a GTX3582R would be my pick in twin scroll, twin blah blah blah

upgrade to a modern single turbo in your twin scroll, twin gate, divided rear housing fashion... then you won't need to worry about anything like using a t-piece to control 2x turbos, or worrying about 2x oil lines, 2x oil drains, 2x water lines, 2x dumps etc... #shotsfired

much fast

all that downforce, car could enter WTAC Open Class.. might need a bucket seat and a new motor and new everything lol

another reason why I don't like trimming the fan blades with those typical off the shelf FMIC kits for RB25DET motors.. thus I went for the Plazmaman kit

I have a Blitz DBSC, which uses this block containing 2x independent solenoids:

They were at Shindo 400 (still can't believe I wasted 3 hours there, lucky it was free lol).

That's the point, you want to work the turbo to give you the flat boost or targeted amount thus post intercooler but pre throttle is more desirable for a pressure source

nope, just a MAC valve (or similar)

43mm thickness, and that gives you approximately 1.5cm clearance between the fan shroud and fan blades.. however there have been incidents where at high RPM the fan flexes just enough to smash into the shroud.. I believe this happened to SimonR32 on this forum. Best way around is to trim off the flat area of the fan shroud

yep, after destroying my current gearbox

It's known shockproof destroys boxes, get a perfectly healthy box, add on shock proof and then watch the box deteriorate. It's only good for boxes woth worn down synchros, if it's a healthy box steer clear of it.

Just make sure you flush out the radiator properly and before you do all of that make sure you sand down the fittings on the radiator or your stock overheat fan thermoswitch won't sit flush... I found out the hard way LOL... Screwed it in, noticed the slight gap, installed it into car.. filled it up... bam... leak... removed radiator, removed swtich, sanded it down with a block, re-installed and bam no more.. been going hard for 3 years.

I've seen my car hit 115 degrees water but I was doing a hotlap so I hit the mute button LOL... Car still lives, radiator still not warped and more boost going into it when I get my new turbo (after I get off my arse and send my old one back in) haha

All the eBay radiators are the same, ASI, Worley, GPI, the welds all look the same and the top tank has that ridge. They work pretty well for street use, drags, and moderate track use with moderate power. I only starting having some slight overheating issues once I started making some decent power and mind you that was on a 37 degree day on the track. Other than that, I've done track days in Autumn, Winter, Spring with the same power and the car will power down 8~10 laps without the water going more than 105 degrees.

I wouldn't be touching the cas if it has been tuned set at say 18.. now you've just lost some power as your entire map has 3 degrees less timing. still safer than those guys advancing their cas to 15 when it was much lower. Also that fluctuation at 3k rpm could be from a lean spot on the tune that was never tuned on the dyno as the tuner didn't hit that load point or didn't tune cells around certain load points.

just some info about my car, street I run Penrite 10W40 racing but on the track 15W50 racing