Dose Pipe Sutututu

I wouldn't be touching the cas if it has been tuned set at say 18.. now you've just lost some power as your entire map has 3 degrees less timing. still safer than those guys advancing their cas to 15 when it was much lower. Also that fluctuation at 3k rpm could be from a lean spot on the tune that was never tuned on the dyno as the tuner didn't hit that load point or didn't tune cells around certain load points.

just some info about my car, street I run Penrite 10W40 racing but on the track 15W50 racing

what ECU? what you can do is use the temperature fuel compensation and add in more fuel when the motor is cold.

waaaay to thin, asking for trouble

add more boost to make up for the lack of compression lol

BUMP for China Racing! Has seen about a half a dozen track days and still going strong.. removing due to upgrade as I need just a touch more cooling

bump bitches good for R32, R33 GTS, R34 GT, S13, S14, S15 and Stagea varieties !!! $300 for SAU guys and girls!

Plug up a fuel pressure gauge and watch it jump up and down on hard throttle or when the boost ramps up like a mad man. Thing is 90% of Tomei FPR on the market are fake and even the real ones aren't that good either... A friend I regularly go to the track with swaped out his so called genuine Tomei FPR (bought from Nengun) for a Turbosmart FPR1200 and now he is able to run less duty cycle and smooth out the injection table not to mention he now requires less throttle pump.

I am so glad I bit the bullet and bought these without any review from others using them on R33 boats... day and night difference over BC BR coilovers with softer springs. I could have gotten BC BR coilcovers for nearly half the price but I am so glad I didn't! Next track outing should be fun, BREMBO brakes going on and hopefully the weather is cooler!

and I suggest taking that FPR selling it and buying something better like a Turbosmart FPR1200 or so.. even those SX FPR seem ok (according to my mate that works on EVOs) Those Tomei FPRs "may" work, but they don't control pressure smoothly when you connect a fuel pressure gauge on them.. Whenever you jab the throttle on and off quickly you can see pressure spikes and drops all over the place making your transition throttle terrible and on the odd time you'll get massive rich spots causing either misfires OR massive backfires.

I used a pair of decent side cutters and they snapped like a fresh broccoli stalk.. So I've got the video all ready, but for some reason Sony Vegas has died so I have no quick way of converting a 1.5GB clip into someone more manageable

idle them a little richer, will idle silky smooth OR just go to E85 as you need more fuel on idle so they atomise properly lol

Just an update, I still haven't removed my old turbo.. I am so lazy these days.. New Year's resolution, remove turbo and send back to Hypergear for an upgrade

You mean after the intercooler but before the throttle body, ie cold side Taking pressure from the plenum to control either your internal or external gate will cause issues.

delete BOV, done

If it's 0 ga or 2 ga then it would be sweet, 4 ga is getting on the thin side but should be just about enough to crank.

SOLD to the gentleman above!

if you're low on power add boost!

$100 and it's yours man

Merry Christmas Everyone! LOL

stock motor loves boost (when fitted with proper head studs) spent all Sunday abusing my car at Wakefield in 40 degree heat and then drove home. Motor still pumping on!

suuuutuutuu x2 you know you love it, you're in denial

try Intima SR next time, nearly same price as A1RM

imagine this.. twin dose pipes lol