Dose Pipe Sutututu

Friday bump this schizzle... You know I'm negotiable right? How about give me 3x slabs of Blonde and you can take everything remaining in this thread. Sold: Subframe Lock Collars - Blue in Colour, full set (8 pieces) $40 Factory Catalytic Converter $50 Subframe Lock Collars - Blue in Colour, full set (8 pieces) $40 Available: Factory Steering Rack Ends/Tie Rods $10 Factory Steering Tie Rod Ends $10 Factory SMIC $50 Factory SMIC piping $50 Factory Cross over pipe & BOV $50 Factory Down pipe $20 Factory Dump pipe $20 Factory O2 sensor $10 Factory Mint Handbrake OEM boot $10 Factory HICAS unit $20 Factory Passenger side kick panel, 1x flare clip broken $5 Factory R33 GTS-t Manual Radiator, working removed for upgrade $40 Factory Stock R33 Rims x4 (tyres might not pass an inspection) $100 Bendix DB1170 Front Brake Pads (Near New) - "Guaranteed Race Car Like Squeal" $30 Blitz 60mm Gauge Holder $5

heat & ze boost ?

do it, external gates are mad... In all honesty, it's better that you direct the heat & exhaust pressure from the rear housing via the external gate. I've tuned a few of my mates car and I find that cars running external gates like more timing (due to less exhaust back pressure) and also better if you're hammering it on the track as the housing doesn't get as hot as an internally gated housing (just my theory). and the bonus, you can run a screamer pipe on the gate

Paul, looks like your arms have gotten smaller.. been working the beers more? lol

you sure your tuner knows what he is doing? that power band looks totally McFuarked.. looks like there's massive amounts of timing pulled out after it goes on song.. also looks really laggy?

B16ANOSHIT

maybe the material costs? I've never used a kevlar clutch before so I can't comment.. but a ceramic vs. carbotic I must say the ceramic is easier to drive It takes a man to drive a carbotic clutch, I'm pretty used to mine and can go through Sydney traffic without stalling it (when I'm alert, when I'm tired after work it's stall-o-matic)

Disco, make sure you delete your BOV and install a nice intake pipe with a pod filter. I want to hear it go ssuuuuuu tuuutuutu hahaha.. (as if you would do it) On the other hand, can't wait till you do it. Will be following this thread

Or if you're on a budget and never really want more than 200kw, just get your stock ECU socketed and chipped with Toshi's map. It's optimised for AU 98RON and the afrs have been tidied up. Save that 1000$ on a tune and that 1000$+ on an ECU You'll yield close too 200kW if not more depending on the health of your motor

Yes we both are using the carbotic

Err both posts above yours insinuates we are using NPC clutches lol Pedal soft, no tired leg, prepare to stall for a week consistently

Do what Scotty tells you, I'm doing the same soon

Harro, Selling my barely used motorbike leather jacket. Did about 2 seasons of riding and decided another Skyline was more fun. Now I have gear doing nothing. Joe Rocket Sonic 2.0 Leather Motorbike Jacket Large Black Barely Worn, I didn't ride much Comes with internal extra liner, etc. There is no wear at all, feel free to come inspect They're still like near $400 new Should have receipt some where Contacts: Here or PM Price: $195 Location: Canley Vale, NSW 2166 Looks 100% like this:

wow.. I want your shed.. that's so sexy, if you saw my garage it looks like a detention centre for Honda boys

Get the super dragger, they're #thebest lol

Or just get Toshi to socket your stock ECU and pop one of his emulated and burnt roms in. Will make close to 200kW depending on the health of your motor.

TBH for that price you'll be getting a better clutch from NPC.. I've got a 10" modified Patrol Exedy pressure plate with their infamous carbotic plate for under ~$800 delivered... Doug from NPC said it will take up to 400kW any day of the week. best part is, the pedal feels as soft as a stock clutch... I even thought I fked the clutch install when I when to test my pedal.

if that's the case just get full replacement whiteline subframe bushes, drop the entire subframe pop in the new bushes.. at the same time buy some GKTech subframe re-enforcement plates and get them welded on... scrub up the sucker and re-spray it too.

^ factory breather joined, factory PCV still connected. With the above setup, the catch can will only "catch/breathe" when there's positive pressure in the plenum. On VAC/idle/off boost the plenum will pull nearly all of oil vapours.

does this car get punished on the track or is it just a streeter?

Or take them out and replace them, by far the least work required

no it can't.. it presses against the fitting hard to explain, but you need to tighten it down properly so it stops swivelling

I like your 4WD, should also do bic turbo & ze gate haha

does the fitting still swivel? if so it's not pressing/closed properly and causing the leak.

yezzz I <3 Plazmaman piping though