Dose Pipe Sutututu

or just buy deatschwerks side feeds, stock rail, stock plugs, stock FPR.. winner winner! http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fuel-injectors/sport-compact/nissan/skyline/rb25det/1993-98-rb25det

hrms.. don't remember, he wears glasses if that helps? LOL

but that less kesh I can spend on tyres LOL last texi I smashed 4 near new tyres hahaha, expensive lesson...

^ I haz no money barely can afford to mod my R33 boat

Available: Factory SMIC $50 Factory SMIC piping $50 Factory Blow Off Valve $30 Factory Down pipe $20 Factory Dump pipe $20 Factory Mint Handbrake OEM boot $10 Factory HICAS unit $10 Factory Passenger side kick panel, 1x flare clip broken $5 Factory R33 GTS-t Manual Radiator, working removed for upgrade $20 Factory R33 GTS-t Series 2 ABS Viscous LSD (no sensor, I'm using it) $250 Factory R33 GTS-t Series 2 Stock Turbo with Rubber intake & cast dump $250 Blitz 60mm Gauge Holder $5 Fully Sick Gearboot & Handbrake Boot in black leather with purple Stitching $10 ----- Sold: Subframe Lock Collars - Blue in Colour, full set (8 pieces) $40 Factory Catalytic Converter $50 Subframe Lock Collars - Blue in Colour, full set (8 pieces) $40 Factory O2 sensor $10 Factory Stock R33 Rims x4 (tyres might not pass an inspection) $80 Factory Cross over pipe $30 Superlow Rear Springs R32/R33/R34 GTS-t/GT-t $40 Bendix DB1170 Front Brake Pads (Near New) - "Guaranteed Race Car Like Squeal" $20 Binned: Factory Steering Rack Ends/Tie Rods $10 Factory Steering Tie Rod Ends $10

^ I usually just suck it out of the R33 actually

so when will you guys allow screamer pipes? lol

For a track car I would go for a turbo that gives you a broader area under the graph, not just outright power.. SS2 would be a perfect choice, gated & on happy juice

even my Victa lawnmower gets 98RON

if you're tight, just run 95 RON - get toshi to remap your stock rich as fek ECU and happy days.. more economy, more drivability - done.

LOL it's just like bitcoin

It's a waste of time, if you're shit keen on it buy an aftermarket ECU and tune it on E10 - the cheap shit (not P100 E10) Your car will run shit, your economy will be shit.. essentially you're running less timing to compensate for this fuel, which is usually inconsistent too. E10 is made for lawn mowers and whipper snippers

Borrow some knock equipment and pull back the timing on the CAS enough so there's no more audible knock. The stock ECU runs rich as bat shit anyways, so you'll be safe with more ethanol content.. However, what is your goal? You don't really save more money as the car becomes less economical

I'll take some photos of my hacked up heat sheild this weekend.. it's not the nicest thing, because I have an external gate mounted on my rear housing but it will give you an idea

should look at the factory timing map.. then ask yourself will E10 work well..? if you want to run E10 you are going to need a remap, or at a minimum retard your cas by about 5 degrees.

did you use chemical resistant heat shrink? I have.. seems "ok" so far LOL

ling long, triangle, rotalla tyres are mad alright used by many people stretching tyres over massive rims that are tucked under their guards.. awesome

I'll play nice.. Essentials before power (for me anyway): - bucket seat - 1.5/2 way diff - good suspension - replace castor bushes - subframe pineapples - hicas lock bar - decent tyres & pads then: - fmic - fuel pump (if needs a new one) - boost controller - simple off the shelf toshi remap rip skids all day

this time I will, it's an expensive lesson haha.. also this time lazy, paying someone to change it

make sure you have a screamer pipe connected up................... through the bonnet, I reckon it's porno, especially when you get a few flames poppping out #becausetrackcar

after, new ccccccccllllllllllluuuuuuuutttttttcccccchhhhhhhhhhhhhh LOL yes, mine is fuarked already.. too many 3rd gear clutch dumps at the previous texi lol

case closed we iz now all happy RB family again

you mean the charcoal canister? yeah go for gold! while you're at it, might as well setup an atmo catch can (it's a dedicated track car that will never see the streets right?)

needs a massive ATMO bov off ebay

^ GT-R plenum would be worse IMHO because you need to run one of those fugly hacked up spacer plates and that would affect airflow and also the injector spray would be offset. Of course, it has been tried & tested.. but for 370~400kW why not stick to the stock plenum, but if you have cash to spend might as well get a Plazmaman plenum