Dose Pipe Sutututu

must be different, because his is $300 used and the other one is $300 new

Weird eh? Mine runs exactly the same and it runs perfectly. I didn't even bleed it, just started the car and turned the wheel back and forth at the same time topping up thr reservoir. Happy days, perhaps see if there's a blockage somewhere. I've done the same setup on another car years ago, no dramas there too (although was a poster street car that never saw the track).

Spot on mate, plate came from Doug @ NPC clutch. Scott @ Western Clutch measured it and told me it is only 0.03mm worn. I don't have digital vernier calipers to measure the plate but I'll see if I can borrow a set somewhere, measure it and add 0.03mm to it. Not really rocket science

Did you hook it up on the rack return line? I don't have any issues with bleeding it as such. However mines mounted a little unconventionally because of my front bar and bumper support

HyperGear, probably 1/2 the price

$200 NPC 400kW Clutch Plate - Barely Used, worn 0.03mm / Will fit any RB $200 Yellow Jacket Coil Packs for RB25DET S1.2/2, Stagea Non-Neo RB25DET (7x coils) - happily held 1.2 bar of boost $10 Alloy BOV Bung/Plug $10 110L/h Fuel Pump that fits in stock position $40 2x Falken Azensis RT615 225/35/17 with around 3mm tread $50 BRAND NEW Braided Oil Feed Line for Stock RB25DET Turbo $40 BRAND NEW OEM Rear Main Seal & Spigot Bush for RB2xDExx motors - 12279-5L310 $200 RB25DET S2 Turbo - no shaft play, exhaust wheel in one piece $20 RB25DET S2 Factory dump pipe & down pipe $20 RB25DET/RB20DET Factory Manifold $50 RB25DET S2 AFM $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Blow Off Valve $20 RB25DET S2 Radiator $10 RB25DET S2 Fan Clutch $50 RB25DET S2 Stock SMIC & Pipes $200 RB25DET S2 ABS Diff - minus ABS sensor PENDING $30 RB25DET S2 Stock Anti Roll bars / Sway Bars $20 RB25DET S2 Rubber Intake Pipe $10 RB25DET S2 handbrake boot & gear boot (1x OEM 1x Aftermarket) $10 RB25DET S2 HICAS Rack & Tie Rods $20 SR20DET S15 Radiator

could it be your HICAS and/or that switch on the rack? I know if you pull off the HICAS ECU the steering is bat shit heavy

Oil all over the reservoir dribble down the lines and loss of fluid - only happens on the track. I don't lose all assistance or that, just half the oil dribbles out and makes a mess in the engine bay. Since I've installed my power steering oil cooler (used R33 AT cooler) no more, no dribble shit, no dirty reservoir and my lines looks fresh

I will soon Just need a quiet place to do it, it's freaking loud and shoots flames out of the gate & exhaust LOL Got bored and installed Splitfire Coilpacks, no more silly misfires now. Ideally I want to sell it, but I doubt I will sell it - so I might just keep it until someone gives me the right coin for it. By the way, never thrashed.

Ebay? They're like 40$

Car wreckers just snip one off a car and wire it up to your ecu loom. There's a guide on the Nistune site also

Bump, everything still available

Jack the front of the motor up so the rear points a little down then jiggle the bitch in. Also, did you replace the spigot bush? A damaged or worn (not centred) could be the issue

Replace reservoir lines, they weep and usually are the source. I replaced mine with aftermarket gates oil hoses. 3/8" and 5/8", if money permits go OEM - I went aftermarket because I ended up fitting a power steering cooler when I did my lines (no more boiling on the track)

Touch cas, re time Loosen a few bolts, retime Marked out cas place in same spot, retime Replaced cas, retime Do anything to cas, retime Running aftermarket ecu? Lock timing and retime And yes, listen to jiffo - he knows more than Nissan

Stock R33 GTR will fit a R32 GTR so will a R33 GTS-t Series 1 and R32 GTS-t

+612 9725 1728 Speak to Henry tell him Johnny referred with the homo purple R33 shit box lol

Possibility he is running AFM(s), so more air "sensored" by the AFM, more fuel is injected - accordingly to the map.. where as a MAP based car will inject as much fuel as required as per the RPM vs. Boost/Vacuum cell.

Wow that's very interesting, however not the first case of it either. Maybe ping Trent at Chequered he might have an idea since he's installed and tuned thousands of PowerFCs where as I've done two LOL

WOW - good stuff mate!

deletes HICAS, more control of your vehicle

OEM handbrake boot - mint, no cracks or poo Aftermarket handbrake boot & gear boot - good condition, no cracks no anything.. black leather with purple stitching.

$200 NPC 400kW Clutch Plate - Barely Used, worn 0.03mm / Will fit any RB $200 Yellow Jacket Coil Packs for RB25DET S1.2/2, Stagea Non-Neo RB25DET (7x coils) - happily held 1.2 bar of boost $10 Alloy BOV Bung/Plug $10 110L/h Fuel Pump that fits in stock position $40 2x Falken Azensis RT615 225/35/17 with around 3mm tread $50 BRAND NEW Braided Oil Feed Line for Stock RB25DET Turbo $40 BRAND NEW OEM Rear Main Seal & Spigot Bush for RB2xDExx motors - 12279-5L310 $200 RB25DET S2 Turbo - no shaft play, exhaust wheel in one piece $20 RB25DET S2 Factory dump pipe & down pipe $20 RB25DET/RB20DET Factory Manifold $50 RB25DET S2 AFM $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Blow Off Valve $20 RB25DET S2 Radiator $10 RB25DET S2 Fan Clutch $50 RB25DET S2 Stock SMIC & Pipes $200 RB25DET S2 ABS Diff - minus ABS sensor $30 RB25DET S2 Stock Anti Roll bars / Sway Bars $20 RB25DET S2 Rubber Intake Pipe $10 RB25DET S2 handbrake boot & gear boot (1x OEM 1x Aftermarket) $10 RB25DET S2 HICAS Rack & Tie Rods $20 SR20DET S15 Radiator Location: Pick Up Canley Vale, NSW 2166 Contacts: PM or Reply Here Will happily trade for beer. Old Ads (Photos etc.): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/441585-fs-syd-6x-yellow-jackets-r33-gts-t-s152-rb25det-r34-gt-r-rb26dett-wgnc34-s1-rb25det-ignition-coil-packs/ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/440769-fs-syd-npc-carbotic-clutch-disc-near-new-rb25det-s2-stock-turbo-r33-rb25det-toshi-remapped-ecu-r33-stock-radiator-sway-bars/ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/433062-fs-syd-r33-gts-t-part-brake-pads-subframe-collars-wheels-gauge-holder-misc/

No .... Duncan, have you tried replacing all the relays? A low voltage could mean the relaying supplying current/power to the ECU is faulty. If not, there's the old - direct power to ECU trick (fused of course, this is what a mate of mine did also).

SAU NSW cruise soon? lol I can hang with the big boys now - because gate.