Dose Pipe Sutututu

Jesus..... You're going to have heaps of boost control issues with that exhaust manifold.

You're still alive @WARLORD !

That's why it's lurching, idling shit, and stalled 7 times. Your approach is not ideal, it's literally idle hunting. Let's say your normal idle timing is 20° You would approach the idle timing table like this 800rpm 20° 900rpm 20° 950rpm 0° 1000rpm 20° So when your car hits the 950rpm cell, there isn't enough torque so it falls down to the 900rpm cell which has enough timing to produce the torque to reach the idle target again. Then you'll need to dumb down the PID for the idle control motor to essentially ignore the 950rpm cell. There's an art to great braps, when you don't have the option to advance an intake cam at idle. @GTSBoy going to be real mad 🤣

Best chop idle FTW, just add an idle timing hole lol

Would it not be cheaper to just spray nitrous?

LOL.... fk... there goes 25K to make 200kW

Maximum Attack has entered the chat

Remember when those donkeys kept using freedom units and smashed that satellite to bits on the moon? NASA has their brain switched on and uses the metric system.

Is the UP Garage in the US of Ayyeee even the real UP Garage?

Unplug your stock O2, does the problem go away?

If it's for a SR20, make sure it's not the American Poncams, might as well call them Poocams. Had a set in a friend's car, all scuffed up after a few track days. Like the metallurgy Tomei USA used is junk. Went back to JDM OG Tomei Poncams, no issues till now. Tomei USA is not the real OG Tomei. Random rant over, fk the US of A, bunch of c u n t s.

btw... here's a fun quote I got back in the day (using a NEO head and going shimless): a bit different initial requirement

You can definitely do 450kW on the RB25 non-NEO head, plenty have. The $600 to $800 conversion will end up costing you much more I suspect, I believe you will require machining. NEO head has the lowest barrier to entry. My 2c? buy a BMW 😆

No more 90s JDMs for me, just want 4 door cars that won't attract cops. Wouldn't mind a Hako or a 240Z all motor but modernised (big comp, big cams, ABS, DBW, dis dat).

Win win! Here's a wild idea @Yeetus, come to my doorstep with either $60K or a F80 M3 and take my car away from me. It could rev to 9000rpm but I would recommend putting in beehive springs.

And this is where a M2 or M4 makes sense.

Cheapest option, find a NEO head. Put in good springs, decent cams, and send it to the moon. I rev mine to 8600RPM, gets me about 232km/h down the main straight at SMSP bouncing off the limiter in 4th. I've never dared to grab 5th 🥲

That's heaps low tbh Is your oil pump factory?

What oil weight are you using? That oil pressure is a bit concerning

Probably the voltage dropping towards 11.1V, below a potential minimum requirement for the voltage regulator circuit and/or the capacitors inside are undersized to maintain a constant voltage. I'm no electrical engineer but that's at a high level guess.

Want that BOV to work properly? Pair of with a Haltech and a bunch of sensors. Modernisation, better fuel economy too.

Try swap your alternator, someone else recently had a similar electrical issues with their 150A alternator too, swapped it, all the voltage issues went away.

I dare say all of us active SAU retards (no Gen Zs reading this right?) are probably more knowledgeable than the entire globe on Skyline shit boxes.

That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect

Definitely looks like an outlier, perhaps there may be some electrical issues like others have pointed out earlier. My pressure drop I can replicate over and over again, which I'm blaming the relocation block for, however yours is mounted right up the block.