Murray_Calavera

Hmm that's a big job to pull the motor just to upgrade the pump and harmonic balancer. The average bear would probably bundle in more work at the same time, engine build or what have you. Your call though, suppose if your putting in all the work, your only paying for parts and machine work so I guess it's only costing you extra time in the end. What type of rev limiter are you using at the moment and what is the type of driving your doing on the street that is making you concerned about the oil pump? As for if it would hurt or not doing those upgrades, I suppose it's only going to hurt the wallet and/or your time in labour pulling the motor etc (provided the parts are installed correctly and to spec. Lots of things could hurt otherwise lol)

Is the engine still in your car and it's currently running without issue? If everything is currently fine, why not just tune the car to protect the oem pump and drive the car with mechanical sympathy. You could setup a really soft progressive rev limiter, no 2 step/anti lag, stay off the limiter as soon as it starts to cut, etc etc. Then put away the pennies until your ready to sort the entire oil control system in one go?

I thought that went without saying. Kinda like saying buying a bigger turbo sets you down a rabbit hole of buying bigger injectors, fuel pump, ECU upgrade etc. I would have thought that anyone spending big on an oil pump would also have sorted the rest of the oil control system.

I can't see any issues with running a cat and having the setup you're after. A high quality metal cat will hold up no problems to what you'd be asking from it.

Ah ok, probably safe to say he still isn't making the same mistake 15 years later lol. With regards to the flames, are you talking anti-lag or just some flames on overrun when you shift gears at high RPM?

A modern ECU has so many engine protection features that this should never happen in this day and age. Is your 'tuner friend' a friend that tunes ECU's or a friend that likes 'tuner cars'? With regards to running a cat or not, you will be able to achieve the power level you want while still running a cat. Unless there is another specific reason you want to delete the cat, I think there is a very strong case for continuing to run a (high flow) cat.

Just reading a bit more, it seems like these seats use a side mount, it keeps referring to them as an 'integrated sidemount' so I'm not sure how easy it would be to use an adjustable sidemount with them. Might be worth looking into if the Sportster CS can be used with an adjustable sidemount. Surely that would be problem solved if thats the case.

Yep, the rails will have an impact on the overall seat height. In this instance though I bet there will be hardly anything in it, surely the Recaro rails will be well designed and I bet they will be near identical to the factory rail height. If he said, and I plan to use these cheap no-name $100 seat base/rails, then yeah I'd be concerned about the impact they will have on the seating height. So what I was suggesting is, using the assumption that the factory rails and Recaro rails will have a similar impact on the seating height, he can measure the thickness of the seat base as this will likely be the largest impact on the overall seat height.

Hmm I don't think there is anything to be concerned about, but I doubt me saying that will convince you. I also doubt anyone with these seats will reply in this thread (at $6000ish for a pair I'd be surprised to find anyone running these seats in an R chassis). So my solution is, take measurements yourself and see what you think. Measure up your factory seats and compare with this -

Is your concern that the Recaro seat will sit so low that visibility will be impacted?

100% this, it would just end up being a new black hole for the funds to be shovelled into lol.

I think it sounds really good actually lol. I turned my VCT on at idle and dropped the timing to 0, my car didn't sound anything like that and I was very sad

I vote you upload a video of your idle in here for those that haven't heard it before. (For those that haven't heard it, you need to hear it to appreciate how good it sounds)

Sounds good. Have you started approaching any workshops yet? It doesn't sound like your plan needs to change from what you intended to do from the start.

What was your intention when you bought the car, did you plan to repair it yourself or were you planning to find a shop to do the work for you?

Unfortunately cars get stolen with tow trucks all the time . I still wouldn't call skull dragging a car onto a tow truck a great length for a motivated thief. That's why the first thing I said was, the primary defence is to keep the car out of sight. If our thief with a tow truck doesn't know it's there, he isn't coming for it.

I hate to say it, but this isn't a 'great length' to steal a car. The people that steal high value cars are very used to stealing cars from garages. It really isn't a complicated process, a lot of people leave their keys in very typical places (think bowl/rack by the front door). You break into the house, grab the key and off you go. So what, in about 1 minutes time they have taken the car? Probably goes without saying that most of these cars being pinched in this manner are the higher end Audi/AMG/etc. It's the same process though regardless of whatever the car is. If you're worried about this, keep your car out of sight. If no one knows its in the garage, no one is coming for it. Other things include if you have an aftermarket ECU, change a setting so the car won't start even with the keys, setup CCTV cameras that ping your phone on activation etc. If you think it's hard to break into a house to grab the keys first, just picture the fire fighters coming to recuse someone from a burning house. It's what, 10 seconds to gain entry if that? Locks only help honest people stay honest.

That's my experience too. Before I had a CAN based wideband, I always used an AEM wideband (I wouldn't be surprised if I was using one for over 10 years without issue).

Which ones? (there are a few types of pilot sport tyres lol)

Lots of good comments in this thread, I'll just throw this bit on top. With semi's in the rain, there are a few things to think about - * Getting temperature into the tyres is really important for making semi's hook up. Driving in the rain on a cold winter night will be very different to driving in the rain on a hot summers day. * Semi's wear fast, tread depth has a big impact on how well they will hook up in the wet. Semi's don't have sipes so they need all the tread depth they can get to help evacuate the water. * Not all semi's will work in the rain, regardless of temp/tread depth. Think Ventus Z214 vs Nankang NS2R. If you want to use them in the rain, I'd want to get some real world examples of them working in the wet first. I've used Nankang NS2R 120TW year round in wet/dry conditions, in the rain on a hot summers day up here in QLD, it's a fantastic tyre. The best tyre I've driven on in the rain. I could actually put power down which amazed me. On a cold day in the wet, they couldn't get enough temp into them to become optimal, however I wouldn't say they were dangerous. Think closer to a shitty street tyre rather then death trap lol. I'd also say go with the advice above, get a set of good street tyres, something around Michelin Pilot Sport 4S quality level. Once you start making more power, you could consider going to semi's if you think the cost/performance ratio makes sense.

So pretty

My crystal ball says if he is buying upgraded fuel pumps, drilling out a venturi, buying an upgraded fuel pressure regulator, if he doesn't already have an upgraded rail/injectors, it's only a matter of time now lol.

I vote Radium direct mount regulator. It's super nice mounting the reg directly on the rail. Keeps everything neat and tidy, saves space and saves on fittings/hoses/etc

What's the news?

I've got the same diff, mine never made any noise remotely close to what your describing. It's been perfect for the 8 or so years its been in the car now.