Murray_Calavera

What type of coil packs are you using now and are they brand new?

Hmm in that case, maybe its worth trying a brand new one for science? If it lasts 3 times as long as your previous ones it might be worth it?

Yep, I went 2nd hand for that reason too.

Hmm I have a feeling this post might make a few people angry but here goes... I think it's understood that at the power level you're at, there is no warranty. The build is based on trust, you trust the machinist/engine builder/mechanics/tuner have all done their job properly and if something went wrong, sometimes shit just happens at that power level. Would you feel any different if CRD or Maatouks had done all the work and this still happened to you? If you think I'm crazy look at it this way. 1000HP out of an RB, that motor has a life expectancy that can be measured in hours (what I mean is, if you go to the track and properly use your 1000HP. Your only going to get X hours of 1000HP out of it before it will need to be pulled down). How do you put a warranty on that? It's a tricky spot your in. If you still trust the people working on your car, I'd take it back to them to resolve the issue. Hopefully you have a relationship with the people working there and your not 'just some random customer' and they actually want to help you and sort the car out. If you don't have a relationship with the people working on your car, I'd find a workshop that I was happy to form that relationship with. Or, I'd take over and start doing all of the work on the car myself.

Yeah you could go 'too big' with injectors, but you won't run into those issues with 1000cc injectors. They will idle and drive like factory. Is there any reason you don't want to use a Bosch EV14 injector? They aren't expensive and are proven to be a good thing.

Do you already have the injectors? 750cc injectors or 1000cc injectors will costs around the same money and both will be easy to tune. Why not pick up the 1000cc injectors to start with and save yourself the time and hassle in the future?

I run my pump full throttle all the time, 3 years so far so good.

Good excuse for a IC7 dash or similar?

Yep, that's my 33psi full vacuum idle. I had to by a clamp to do your test, so it's a brand new one of these lol https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-clamp-meter---digital/343253.html

When I bought the pump, I was told by the supplier that it was made by Ti / Walbro and rebranded as Aeroflow, so I just took that at face value. I was told it was identical to a Walbro 525. I just threw a clamp on it, so at idle and battery voltage at 13v, it's pulling 14.3A.

Speaking of making things worse to sound better, I tried your trick of turning VCT on at idle but didn't notice any change in the level of how hectic my idle sounds. Is there anything else you played with? ...or is my VCT broken? lol

This is the pump I'm using - https://aeroflowperformance.com/af49-1057-525lph-e85-hi-flow-fuel-pump It has a 3/8" barb outlet and the line supplied in the kit matches that size, so -6 sizing. Where I had to make up fuel lines, it's -6, the same size as the pump outlet. I would think that if this pump 100% for sure needs a larger sized fuel line, why is the outlet of the pump and the line supplied by the manufacturer -6? I've been running with a pump this size, with the same lines, for over 3 years now without any hiccups along the way. The last time I maxed out my fuel system, it was my 740cc side feeds, pressure was never an issue. Having said all that, I could log fuel temperature and pressure at the fuel hat (no idea how I would put a pressure sensor on the pump outlet, but that is -6 anyway so there is no reduction between the outlet and the hat). I'm not massively keen to log these extra channels because I can't understand the value in doing so, but if the powers that be can see value in it, it can be done.

What am I at risk of happening with how things are at the moment?

Previously I had the stock FPR and a very similar sized pump and same lines, it didn't do the 10psi drop. Because I haven't had any issues with fuel supply at the top end and the change only appeared to happen with the change in FPR, I thought it was a product of that regulator and not an issue. Short version, everything has been fine so far, so I thought everything is fine lol.

Lines are stock sized. Pump is Walbro/Aeroflow/TI automotive 525 LPH.

When I upgraded to a radium FPR, with the vacuum line pulled, base pressure is 43.5 psi. With the vacuum line back on, the pressure drops to 33.5 psi. Big difference between the stock FPR and the radium one for sure.

Ah, got ya. Mounting will be very easy. It is physically smaller then the typical fuel pumps used these days. For the average bear, they probably wouldn't care about the aux jet. You might be interested in it though. High power pumps can overpower the stock venturi which is designed for the lower flowing stock pump. From my experience using the stock venturi, I've run my tank down to 5 litres remaining 3 times now. Once the car was barely running (would stall under any amount of G forces), once the car was 100% perfect (didn't even realise there was only 5 litres remaining at the time), the other time the car died and was unable to be restarted. I account this to my stock venturi being inconsistent with the high flow pump. If the stock venturi is happy to work with what that aux jet is supplying, you would resolve these issues of inconsistency. But yeah, for the average bear, I don't think they would care about this until it caused a bigger issue (which it does once you go to 2 or 3 pumps, but they resolve the issue by having a correctly sized venturi in the hat).

God no lol. If you're not aware, the Haltech lets you switch between pre-set displays. So you can have one for track, street, road tuning, etc. It's a million times better then stock.

Well, I guess if you get this pump, you'll end up with a working pump that suits your needs. I know your going to enjoy the extra work required to get it running the way you would like it too, so I suppose the only downside is cost?

I've personally had engine protection save me. My wastegate actuator diaphragm failed and cause the wastegate to seize closed, sending my boost levels to infinity. I was tuning at the time and doing power runs. The ECU caught the over-boost and no harm was done. But I suppose engine protection is worthless if you never need it.... fingers crossed right?

My brain won't let me accept that lol. My gtst makes about 350kw and I feel like the car is only starting to wake up now. If I had a GTR, I would need substantially more power then that. Do you have any plans to track the car?

0. Please please please strongly consider using a modern ECU. Do you really want to go to all this expense and not have functions like engine protection? Also there are so many fun things you can have in the future (dash, CAN keypads, anti lag, the cure for cancer) you might not want these today - but you might in the future. 1. Stock inlet manifold is plenty for that power level. 2. If you have a modern ECU you can bin the AFM. 3. You can make this power on an unopened motor. With your modern ECU you can run a coolant pressure sensor, and if the head starts to lift you can flick the party-off switch. 4. Yes, it will be fkn snuggly though. 5. Yes. Dose is life. Don't know what BOV makes that noise, but it doesn't matter because dose is life. 6. Yes you can block the PCV and run an atmo catch can. 7. You don't need an external gate for the power level you want. If you haven't already bought the GT3076R, you can find something easily in the Hypergear catalogue that will suit your requirements and be internally gated. 8. See point 7. Anything else? I would say if you can't afford the ECU, keep enjoying what you have now and save up for the ECU. It really is worth the price of admission.

Did you tune this yourself, testing at say 0 degrees, then -5, -10, -20, -30 constantly screaming more bangs! and laughing maniacally? I hope so lol.

What will you do when you want more power then this can flow?

It's not a R32 GTR, but hopefully still inspirational lol