Murray_Calavera

Nice, makes me wish I had a back seat again lol

Mine is at, 4500rpm or 75% tps with 4 second reactivation time I'm also curious what others are running and why they chose those settings.

Ah ok I didn't think about the rear seat.

I thought that's what you wanted though? a bolt in cage with a removable diagonal to keep it stealthy. AGI have that setup and have the option for harness eyebolts as well.

You beat me to it. What I am trying to say is, there is a reason the recommended angle here is between 0 and 10 degrees. I have also personally seen cars fail scrutineering with harnesses mounted to the rear seatbelt mounts at a drift event. Do what you like, it's your car and spine. I was just trying to show you an option that may let you have your cake and eat it too.

It's a matter for yourself mate, it's your spine. This is from CAMS: Schedule I – Safety Harnesses and Window Nets SAFETY HARNESS MOUNTINGS (a) A safety harness shall be securely mounted on at least two points (Type D), three points (Types B and C) or five points (Type A) in compliance with the prescriptions of Drawings I-1, I-2 and I-3. If the two shoulder straps (Types B and C) join prior to a common mounting point then that junction shall be at least 150mm behind the wearer’s neck. Under no circumstances shall a safety harness mounting bolt be used to affix a safety cage to the bodyshell. (b) A safety harness shall be installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions with consideration to the requirements when using a Frontal Head Restraint and application of the following: (i) The shoulder straps shall be directed to the rear and installed in such a way that they do not make an angle greater than 45° to the horizontal from the occupant’s shoulder where a frontal head restraint is not used. It is highly recommended that this angle should not exceed 10° (refer drawing I-1). (ii) The maximum angles in relation to the centre-line of the seat are 20° divergent or convergent (refer drawing I-2). The shoulder straps may be installed crosswise symmetrically about the centre-line of the front seat mounting points for a safety harness.

I got about 3 years out of my daily and track RB25 with that setup (factory everything + oil cooler) before I spun a bearing. Your millage my vary. No you can't fit a head drain with the motor in. Have a read of the oil control thread, it should answer all your questions.

Just a heads up, using the factory rear seatbelt mounts for your harness is quite dangerous due to the angle of the harness. Ideally the harness would go straight back or down by no more then roughly 20 degrees. If you can picture having a head on accident, having the harness slope down at such a high angle, the harness will pull down on your shoulders and compress your spine. You might not care crushing your spine but some scrutineers do and won't let you race with it. If you can still change your cage, you might want to look at this AGI cage, it has the removable diagonal that you want and can mount a harness to it at the correct angle http://www.agi-precision.com.au/product/a-nissan-skyline-r34-2-door-half-cage-4-point-bolt-in/ I've attached a picture to show the angle thing I'm talking about

If you need to pull the motor, you can attach the chain to that point and the similar point on the opposite side of the block. Then yoink out the motor with the crane. Hopefully you never need to do this. Also not sure if this is their official use but it works well.

While we are at it, why don't we just stop tuning ignition maps? Set the whole thing to 40 degrees and let the knock control sort it out!

I'm curious, have you put a car on the dyno, induced detonation and then watched the engine protection/knock control kick in? I can't imagine why anyone would happily fill a car with 91 after it's tuned to run on 98. How long do you setup your delay before you start reintroducing timing? What is the maximum amount of timing that your knock control can pull? Can that even eliminate detonation on 91 from the 98 tune? At what rate do you increase timing after the delay event? There is no way in hell I'd take an engine that is tuned on 98 and is knock limited, then put 91 in it and say, 'she'll be right. I have knock sensors, knock control and hell, I even have a plex knock monitor!'. No chance. Mate, sends shivers down my spine even thinking about it.

Probably goes without saying, but a lot of the internet big horsepower cars have their motors pulled down about once a year. Maybe something needs replacing, maybe it doesn't. So yeah they say they are reliable etc, however I'm not sure if you are prepared to put 'pull down engine' as part of your routine maintenance. As for your dodgy fuel injector worries, what ECU are you running? If you have a modern ECU, you will have engine protection that will cover it indirectly. A dodgy injector will show up when looking at AFR or exhaust gas temps. These 'safety mechanisms' you mentioned, I hope that isn't a gauge that you plan to 'monitor' while driving the car. Your ECU should be monitoring fuel pressure and oil pressure. If oil pressure drops from where it should be, I'd be setting my engine protection to be shutting the engine off, not 'backing off' whatever that means.

Looks like the part number for main bearings If you want big end bearings have a look at these -> 6B2630H

Just wondering, why do you want to spend about $1,000 on a tune when the ECU is going to be replaced? Wouldn't you just put that money towards the new ECU? I am curious, I can't even find your ecu when googling, is it a 'Link' brand ECU, and the model of ECU is 'GTS'?

Mine did this, had a dead fan and gas was a bit lower then where it should be. Also, in the end my compressor died and released black death through the whole ac system. My suspicion is, using the air con without a working fan (over the many years I did this) caused the gas temps to be higher then they should which the compressor didn't like. In the end I replaced the entire ac system - if you have to do this, swap it all with late model parts which are readily available here. I ended up keeping all my ac S1 r33 which was a nightmare.

Fair enough, can't say I'd ever recommend blindly using someone else's tune but your call. Where did this existing map come from? You might struggle to find someone else with a wolf V4, pretty old and unpopular ecu these days. If you want a second set of eyes to look over your map, I'm happy to look at it and see if any red flags pop up. Do you have a wideband O2 sensor?

The 'start up map' is your base map. What are you looking to achieve by getting someone else's tuned map? Surely your not planning to run your car on someone else's tune?

What ECU? If it's aftermarket, it could have a hard rev limit at 8.5k and a soft cut at 7k. With that setup yes it would 'misfire' from 7k but that would be working as intended. As a side note, that's also how I have my rev limit setup, I have quite a large range of soft cut where the ECU continues to slowly cut spark to more and more cylinders if I leave my foot in it til it hits the hard cut when all cylinders would then have all spark cut.

I feel like this is fraught with danger. Unless the person helping is 100% a mate and doing it at no cost, there is going to be drama come payment time. This is one of those jobs that tend to blow out massively. At least if a workshop has the car that deals with skylines on a regular basis, they may have the random bits and pieces that have gone missing while being pulled apart. If they are doing it at home, who knows how often they'll be hitting up wreckers/Nissan for parts along the way and wasting a tonne of time. Oh and for next time, sandwich bags, a sharpie and your smartphone taking a million photos goes a long way come reassembly time.

Haven't seen someone build a 25/30 and wish they built a 25 lol

Hey mate, Sounds like time to take the car to a workshop. Fingers crossed you haven't lost anything along the way.

Hey mate, welcome. Have you done much with your S15?

I'm guessing here but it sounds like your local mechanic only works on stock cars doing routine service work and minor repairs? It's time to start approaching performance workshops, any workshop that is doing engine swaps, engine builds, custom turbo setups and dyno tuning all in house will be able to breeze through this job. I hope you are prepared to pay a fair whack of $ to have this done as the big name performance shops aren't cheap. If you are trying to cheap out on this job, I'd say do it yourself and take your time. Try and bribe your mates with beer to get them to help out as well lol

Hey mate, I can immediately think of a dozen workshops that would do this job. How many workshops have you approached and what issues have you been having?

Hey mate, if you do a sneaky google search for the R33 service manual, you'll find all the torque specs there. You only need the common, R33 engine service manual, it's a very easy find.