Beer Baron

it costs what it costs because the club exec do the sums then charge what is needed to try and ensure our club does not make a loss. part of the reason official timing is not provided is because it is the distinguishing factor between a speed even (run under cams or AASA) and just a training day. also bear in mind if you attend a day that has official timing you will 100% NOT be covered by your insurance policy if you damage your car. if you attend a driving training event which does not have official timing then depending on your policy there is a good chance you will be covered (check with your insurer though as some require you to notify them in advance). if you are keen on getting some times to improve your track skills then it's a good idea to invest in your own timer. a good, infrared lap timer and beacon cost around $350-$400 all up, and you can split the cost with a mate or even 2 to share it.

geez, you really have a vendetta against poor old holden. I think they do a good job with what they have, and their sales volumes seem to back that up. that make cars well suited to the country they are sold in and they have some great features: attractive body, big comfortable interiors, nice big powerfull V8 donk, rear wheel drive. what more do you need? you may not think they are revolutionary but they are good cars for the money and stack up pretty well against other makes.

the rays duralumin one are ok, but not great. if you take your wheels on and off a lot, and you do track work (the two go hand in hand really) then I would look at Rays Daytona wheel nuts. they are small OD, open end, long shank, steel nuts, with a durable coating. very nice nuts and recommended for racing. rays don't reccomend the duralumin nuts for racing, they are really for street use (proven by the fact they come with lock nuts). the other option is work make nice small od, long shank, open ended, black steel nuts too. i forgot to mention, both the rays daytona and the work nuts are 17mm head which is good as some wheel you have no chance of getting a 19mm socket in there.

the 'nismo goodies' is just an upgraded input shaft. the stock getrag shaft has been known to twist especially when you have decent power and a hard core clutch. so nismo when they desinged a clutch kit added an upgraded input shaft to it. you get the input shaft when you buy a nismo 34 GTR clutch. but it doesn't do anything for the strength of the gears or the ratios, or the synchros. it's just one short little shaft that send power into the front of the box that is changed over. I would say whoever was using the box before you was using a nismo clutch with it hence the reason it had the input shaft in there from the clutch kit.

there are lots of pluses to running the motor in on the dyno and it can be done inside a full day. since you don't have to concentrate on actual driving you are more likely to quickly spot any trouble (like falling oil pres, or drop in fuel pres, or light det etc). and you can use the dyno to load it up as you need. the other upside of course is you are still in the workshop so if something does go wrong you are not half way to bathurst and 300kms from home and the parts you need. and if something goes really wrong you don't have to wear a towie's bill on top of it all.

from memory the list of parts is in the OSG instructions and should include the part numbers with it. I guess you will find out soon...

roger that on the window guys. will have that info tomorrow.

I have to admit I deep down didn't think they would boot him. he has lots of powerful friends and they fact that they took so long to convene this meeting to boot him to me indicated he was going to stay. if they really planned to oust him they would have done it almost straight away. waiting all this time let things die down a bit. sneaky bastards. none of ze punishment for max. he must be conflicted. on the one hand he likes his job, on the other he loooves ze punishment!

guys, please try and keep the aggressive and abusive posts out of this forum. also, this guy asked a serious question and just posting silly answers does not help, and is not as funny as it may seem in your head. all it does is guarantee the thread goes downhill fast. consider yourselves all given a friendly warning, but continued behaviour like this will result in official warning and eventually posting restriction and banning. So please help me keep the forum friendly and informative. now a serious response. it is actually illegal to remove/block/disable the blow off valve on a car that was fitted with one from the factory (which yours was). Simply because the blow off valve (actually a compressor bypass valve) is part of the factory emissions equipment. On top of that the flutter noise it makes will attract attention from the police. I would suggest if you have a problem with your factory GTST BOV leaking then consider upgrading to a standard GTR BOV (32/33/34 are all good). They can be often had quite cheaply, look very factory, flow plenty and can handle plenty of boost without leaking. I would say $50 or $60 would get you one, and from what I understand they are pretty much direct fit.

haha, nice work. There is a case to argue unique appearance for sure. but we both known DOTARS are far from predictable and they may not see it our way. good luck.

Yeah baby! nice work Rich.

GTS4WD is spot on. there is no need to disable ABS to disable the AWD. the reason people do is that they are lazy and just remove the fuse from the in cabin fuse panel. if you remove the AWD fuse from the engine bay all it disables is AWD. ABS is left intact. and no it won't harm your R32 GTR to do it.

do you have a GTST? if so then single spinners are par for the course. GTSTs all come with viscous diff standard. none of them have a proper LSD (GTR comes with a 2 way LSD). only way to properly cure it is to fit a decent LSD centre.

i know what happend there. you tried the ol reach around gear shift action but fked it up and next thing ya know you're facing the wrong way. need more practice pete.

V-band is much better. easier to position, better sealing, does not leak when hot, ummm easier to take on and off. you should use them everywhere that is possible! even for your exhaust joints if you have the $$. that is the only downside to B-band I know of. Cost. they are much more expensive than traditional flanges.

well my curiosity got the better of me so I checked the list and it is not on there. but you seem keen and very excited so if you think they will accept your interpretation of the rules then by all means send in your application. I sincerely hope it does get through as I would probably buy one or two. http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/mot...vs/pdf/form.pdf

so is it on the SEVS list or not? my point is, it's only met those requirements once DOTARS deem it to have met the requirements and add it to the SEVS register. take for example the R35 GTR. You would think a rear mounted DSG AWD transaxle was a unique design feature. no other car anywhere in the world has one. but they did not agree and stated it did not have any unique design feature. keeping that in mind what is the cubes 'unique design feature'? anyway, I hope they do import them. they are kind of cute, but don't get too worked up about it. they are nothing revolutionary. just another small car but with a funny looking body. they are not especially advanced nor are they especially fuel efficient. they are about equal with any corrola, or yaris or pulsar or whatever. edit: here is the GTR entry to prove the point. http://rvcs-prodweb.dot.gov.au/sevs/477-00.htm

lol, "we can only manage 6 a week" that means they churn out one a day! pretty quick for a special hand built sports car. but still, if you like holdens and you have the cash then it's not too bad. there are not many factory built cars with 500hp around for $150K. and personally I think the commodores aren't a bad thing at all. they serve their purpose well and do it with a nice big surplus of power.

lol that is funny. but at least half of it is true. I only remember because one of those cars he passed was webber who was stuck behind the tool alonso. and none of it changes the fact he cried like hakkinen reborn!

russ might be able to give some insight with the rear hubs as his 34 hubs have been modified to remove the hicas bits and eliminate toe change under bump by adding another member to the LCA I think. it's certainly a good idea if you can get rid of it as even with the lock bar you still have the crappy little hicas tie rods and the tie rod ends which are bullshit expensive to replace and always seem to have some play in them. and toe change under brakes is not nice.

i'm not sure the rebuild kit will include them as generally even when replacing pistons and seals you don't seperate the two halves of the caliper. they can be near impossible to re-seal. I really don't think loctite will cut it either. like gave said they are sealed in the factory and generally remain that way. i'm still not really sure why you split them in half instead of just removing the caliper? it's just 2 bolts and the brake line to undo. just check when you order the rebuild kit that it comes with what you need. and if worst comes to worst just buy a second hand GTST caliper. they are cheap enough.

I really don't think it will meet unusual desing features. they have to be something special that it has or does. but it's just a funky looking regular small car. it may qualify for unique appearance but again I don't think so. only one way to find out though, submit the form and ask for it to be added.

yep, asking me when i'm smashed is the best chance you have... troy is right, I am old school irish, not like you faggoty new school irish. *(only those who watch dennis leary in rescue me need apply)

and if you are bringing it back to aus as a personal import then it's not an issue at all. the 'no accident repair' problem relates specifically to SEVS compliance. since you live in japan just export the car after 12months of ownership as a personal import and you do not have to have the car complied.

forgot to say it before, but I love the cage. should protect both your noggins nicely. though I'm not 100% convinced yours is worth protecting dundan!