89CAL

so are we all just going to get an invite to a private session at around 8? have we worked out whos doing it? lol

We should do races and do the fastest lap XP trick to all level up a bit. I need to level up, been busy playing with my car (in real life ) Also, all meet up with the GTR type car. Tacky and Cliche for SAU crew. Love that shit

Yes, S1, and S2 guards are the same

It's not far off from what I can tell. We did some trial fitting and working out exhaust/wastegate configuration on the old engine. Its probably slightly different but not a whole lot off. But I'd say the stock side mount manifold wouldnt be quite as tight I cant remember what Stao's Brae manifold is off the top of my head?

So.... It finally happened:

Just a heads up to anyone who wants to go bigger then SS2 and go low mount, think again my SS2 JUST fits, But it does fit, Engine is in the car now, cant wait to see how it goes

strange, mine is nearly a year old and still fine. Well I'll see if its still fine when i crank the new engine up in the next few days anyway lol. Still felt fine anyway

Yeah my download is good but my upload isnt fantastic, thought someone would be able to beat that lol..... Not bad for my little country city here Glad we got that sorted

O.K lets decide who has the best internet connection

Sorry its a bad photo, but does anyone know if anywhere in Mackay sells these, preferably in an assortment pack. I need some for all my boost lines I havent really looked anywhere, hoping to get an answer straight away that will point me in the right direction.

Removing the tailshaft and running it up to 70km/h to me doesnt completely eliminate things in front of the gearbox as there is no real load on the engine. Having said that, I pulled my engine recently and have been driving with a completely seperated left side engine mount, hadnt really noticed it Fix the gearbox crossmemeber if you have an issue there. see what that does.

I do oil change every 5000km, do plugs about every 20,000km. But I have left them longer at times and never had an issue with the coppers. I'm sure the Iridiums are fine, and last longer. But I don't believe they last as long as they are advertised My view is that coppers work just as well and are alot cheaper, so thats what I do. Not saying that they are the best thing out there, but they definently work for the power levels most of us are running. At the same time though, I can get to my plugs alot easier without the standard manifold and piping

Yeah I have an old bluetooth headset from one of my old phones I've been meaning to try. But usually its more fun not to have one because noone can hear you rage lol Might be good if its just SAU'ers involved

Thursday at 8 I thought was the plan? Private SAU session. Winning. Not sure what to do with those of us who dont have Mic's. Might see If I can get my bluetooth keyboard to work with the PS3 again

Go the NPC 10" sprung button. Soft enough pedal and great clutch. I just pulled mine out after having it a few years and apart from normal wear it looked great. No hot spots or damage whatsoever. Sent it for a rebuild to save me pulling the box again later and have it back in less than a week. They have been great to deal with Also recommend getting one of their lightweight flywheels

engine mounts? Centre bearing? Diff mounts/bushes? I got a polyurethene gearbox mount and played around to get the exhaust hanger from the stock mount to fit but ended up with bad vibrations. Ditched it and it was fine. Probably not your issue but just putting it out there

Ive never had any issues with copper plugs and know many people with the same story

Yeah I think the best bet is to get it high flowed (steel wheels) and then you wont have to worry. Run stock boost no issue Then when you want more power just get the supporting mods and wind the boost up. Cheaper than constantly buying replacement stock turbos I know its not really solving the original problem. But still a good idea

Yeah I didnt really know, I have a tomei lol never really played with bosch pumps

The line on the gauge you are talking about is halfway to full in positive pressure? If so from memory that seems about right Perhaps there is to much heat in the exhaust side, maybe its running to rich? Does it backfire, shoot flames or have poor fuel economy?

My guess is because one is supposed to be submerged and the other isn't but not to sure?

Does the red hose go straight to the turbo, nothing tees off it? what does your stock boost gauge go up to when under full load/boost? Did you make sure you cleaned all the old parts of turbo out of the exhaust?

Released December 6.............. 2015?

Am I misunderstanding this or did you put the boost feed for the actuator on the suction line? (the pipe from filter to turbo) If so then theres your problem, if not disregard this

You could make a bracket and p-clamp them away from the wheel. But probably easier to just loosen the fitting, turn it and tighten it back up in a better spot. Bleed brakes anyway, better to spend half an hour doing that then needing to stop and having no brakes