GTRPSI

Not sure what calipers they are, the part number for the pads is different, they are not the Sumitomos that the turbo models use with the 2 pins passing through the pads to hold them in. I have seen a few customers cars come in with them, i think from memory they are only a inboard single piston job, my brake catalog says R33 Non Turbo so i would be looking that way, they are probably a lower level of Sumitomo in single piston. Concentrate on anything with 4 stud wheels from the R32, R33 range in non turbo is your best bet.

That is the best way, the chances of them dropping the cat is zero at the point your defected, you usually have a time frame to bring the car in for a check, enough time to put a stocker back in to pass emissions testing. I run a 100 cell FIA approved race cat, having said that i don't think its epa legal anyway but so far it never failed in the GTR. At least i have a cat to show, if i was tested the stocker would magically fly in.

There will not be much of a change in sound by changing cats, change the hot dog for a straight through muffler for the next noise level down or just add a straight through muffler.... About running a straight pipe instead of a punched out cat, its financial suicide, any idea about the on the spot fine for not running a cat? At least it wont be obvious to whoever checks the car when pulled over.

R32 GTST including R32 GTR should be 297mm diameter X 18mm thick ventilated rears. Next down is a 266 X 16 ventilated rear thats hard to find after market....same 5 bolt stud pattern. In those cases we have been telling customers to send the larger ones to a engineer to have the outer diameter turned down and 2 mm skimmed off them. Next down is 266mm X 9mm solid, but its 4 bolt stud pattern....

The less cells, the more free flowing it will be, the more cells the more restrictive. The less cells the harder it is to be EPA compliant, the more cells the better scrubbing it is. So if your worried about EPA go for a 300 cell high flow, if you want power, punch out your old substrate and just leave a shell there so the police dont notice a decat pipe, if you get a EPA defect bolt a stocker in for the test.

Rotors are the same part number (if you have ventilated rear rotors), calipers are the same too, they both use 2 piston sumitomo calipers, so looks like it should be good to go.

Mass produced stock reco rebuilds never get balanced, most rebuilders do this as the engine is considered just a A to B engine and not a revver, its also to keep costs down and to make more money on the engine. If you are going to give it some stick, its very important to get it balanced, the harmonics and weight thrown around at RPM can want to tear the engine apart. Having said that, i always balanced all my stock rebuilds as a matter of being fussy, all except 1 that i rebuilt for my father who didnt want to spend, it lasted for over 200,000 Km on a stock rebuild and it was a Corrolla engine that he use to thrash to make the car move as it was only a 1.3L.

Fit the head on with a few weak mockup valve springs and the cams your running to the correct valve clearance, use a old known thickness HG, put some plasticine on the pistons, fit cam belt on and very gently turn the engine over by hand for 2 full turns feeling for binding. You want about 60 thou or 1.5mm valve to piston minimum clearance, better 80 thou or 2mm, any less than that is very dangerous and you might have them meet at high RPM....more clearance the better to allow for rod stretch and valve float.

And whats wrong with the tomei pumps to need this? They are as good as it gets IMHO without going through all this fuss. Im not putting up my hand to the person to test one....will watch this with interest though.

We spoke to Camtech about our 26/30 also with a 80% strip/20% street setup and were recommended 280 duration 11.5mm lift cams for a easy walk in the park 600Kw at all 4 with a precision 7175. RB30's also tend to absorb lumpy cams a lot better.... Will be interesting to see how user friendly you will find it on the street, post back with how it is to drive after you have tuned it.

Did you bleed the ABS unit too if fitted? What procedure did you use to bleed them, longest line to shortest or other way around? Did you bleed the ABS before or after the lines? On a full open of the lines i bleed at least 4 times to be sure all the airs out.

Will use that one on Barry next time he calls. He is use to hearing me answer his incoming calls with a "You Farkin Bosnian Carnt trouble makers...." If you really want to upset him say your getting a engine built or advice from "the King of SR20's", he knows who it refers too and really get up his nose. Then tell him Peter told you to say it before he punches you.

This and did you degree them in or did you just bolt them in and think whatever the cam gears say is correct? Big cam durations=little vacuum natuarally. Degree wheels set on zero are rarely on true zero, skim the head, change the head gasket thickness and your degree wheels change position slightly, thats why people degree the cams in. Even at its best, vacuum will be low with such massive duration cams.

Dry soldering joints in the AFM most common, while you are there squirt the probes through the mesh with some carb or contact cleaner. You can open both the AFM and repair them.

Yes OP, its the resistor pack.

Interested mate can you txt me on 0411184963 with postage costs... Cheers

Clutch fan, a vacuum leak, aircon belt are more things that can make a similar noise.... Why dont you rev it with the bonnet open and stick your ear around for a listen?

GTR's do have a water heat exchanged right under the oil filter.....

Does it have stock or aftermarket cams?

Everything points to cleaning your air flow meters firstly and if that fails check for dry solder joints. About the comment of you not being able to hit 5psi with 1.1mm gaped plugs sounds like another issue, possibly your ignitor or a ground issue or even the coils are not insulated properly or breaking down, sure .8 sounds right if your running around the 21 psi plus mark but you should be able to run it to 1 bar with 1.1 without a issue, its over that boost that and you start closing the gaps down a bit if you hit missfire on boost and only if needed.....

Will take if sale falls through 0411184963

Pics of the nismo rad cap to 0411184963 please

New or used? Im guessing used because you said they sounded awesome. What brand? How many Km? Condition of lobes? f**k these ugg boot spammers....

Dont go too high in duration, stay around 260 for good response and drivability. The more lift, the more flow during the duration....but the more strain on the valve train.

Yep, i had a feeling after i left it was you too, i didnt think at the time to ask. Yes same story Stefs giving me, he wants to stay manual too for the sake of enjoyment, he has his eyes out for a box or gear set but im constantly behind his neck to go auto and be done with it if he wants times for the power target he is aiming for. Let him bust the stock one first, both of you shouldn't take long to do that, no shortage of power planned between you. LOL