Piggaz

Makes sense.

Is that because of the deck lifting issues or is there another reason?

At what point do you just bite the bullet and go billet? Round and round you go.

This! If you use the car like a road car which it is and don’t bounce off the limiter like a bellend then they’re fine. Granted the design could be better but it is in a road car. Want to belt it at a track... then sort it out.

September..... what year? 🤣

Buy a new sprocket from Subaru and hopefully kelford produce some decent grinds, not this pensioners turd Japanese junk. Just make sure you have mega piston to valve clearance. +1 vote for never binning vcam (emissions cam as some would call it 🙄)

Post the sheet?

12 minutes onwards. track car that’s spinning to 10,500 rpm using sub 270’s. 1 vote for not 280 brap brap nugs, especially not “soft” jap cams. The advertised duration tells you half the story. What’s the duration at 50 thou?

Because the box was designed in 1912. It’s a very dated design and apart from the bigger sump they added, hasn’t been “updated/improved” at all. It’s hardly cheap/value for money when you have to muck around with it when you get it to set it up correctly/as a sequential gearbox should be.

Gear position sensor is so you know where everything is. If you don’t have it then you can only use a set time and hope that you have completed the motion of the change before it restarts ignition.

What kinda money are they after for an OS88?

If you want to do it properly you need to install a gear position sensor BEFORE the box goes in. You’ll then need a strain gauge. Depending on the strain gauge used factor in around $2500 to do this. Here are a couple photos of the sensor I used on the OS88. The strain gauge was the “Motorsport systems” item. Same as what they use in V8 Supercars. It’s about $1500, made in Sydney.

Why ‘build’ an engine with a stock crank? 73.7 mm sucks. No point pulling the crank out to fit an oil pump to try and save an engine when how you’re going to treat it, it’s going to break regardless. Leave it alone or DO IT!

Crank has to come out to fit the collar doesn’t it? You’d be silly to do that and then put it all back together.

What’s the reason behind changing the pump only on what looks like a factory engine? Going to upgrade the sump too? Going to rip the head off and play with restrictors? Leave it alone until you build it would be my advice. It’s been doing it’s job quite nicely for 30 odd years, leave it alone.

Would love to know how they come to those figures. A 3076 gen 1 makes more than a 3576. What on earth is that? Turbine side as it gets bigger makes less grunt. 🧐

Prob 5000 kms.

Have been over speeding my 8374 by a few 1000 rpm since the day it was put on 2017. Was pulled off a few weeks ago in perfect condition. No shaft play, no missing turbine wheel. 🤷‍♂️

Guys have to so be a bit realistic about what they expect their equipment to hold. The GTR scene has gone farken loopy with all this “1200 whp GTR street driven, does high 8’s” rubbish. Between YouTube, Instagram or any other “look at me” social media dribble, everyone wants to be a super star and out donkey swing the next guy. A 600 kw GTR is ridiculously fast (mid 9 seconds or whatever) and if built right can stop, turn AND go. Anything faster that than really becomes a 1 trick pony. To have a manually shifted 900 kw GTR with sticky tyres, on a prepped track launching at god knows what RPM in a heavy car, is it any wonder why the drive lines fail? There is no give and all that grunt/shock load has to go somewhere. Come back down to earth! *off topic rant 🤪

I totally agree and this was my beef with them when they first released the sequential. I spent many hours on the phone with PPG when I was originally going to go down the 5 speed dog box path and they said themselves the issue is with the 5 speed box IS the housing.... then they make a sequential out of the 5 speed box. WTF? Got the OS88 in the car and removed it after 300 kms. Didn’t like it. At the time (mid 2017) I don’t think the samsonas box was a thing yet so it was the PPG, OS88, Holinger, Albins that you needed to take a grinder to the car or back to a 5 speed which is just NOT an option. IF I was doing it today, I think the Samsonas box would be the pick. Suck up the scaffolding gear lever (surely they can do better here) and cop the noise on the chin. With cranky diffs, pumps and whatever else is going on, what’s a bit of extra “character”? It looks like PPG have released a billet housing now. Unsure if it’s any bigger or it’s just shinier. I have had NO problems with the PPG box, it’s been great. Put all the trim around the shifter and it’s pretty damn quiet, shifts well, no oil spewing out the gear case or any other dumb problems. An issue is with these types of boxes (sequentials in general) that guys want to run 1500 whp through them and then wonder why they break. If you run a reasonable amount of power through them <600 Wkw (I use the term reasonable loosely here because 600 wkw is a crazy amount of power) there shouldn’t be any issues.

517 awkw.

No issues so far.

OS88 is a very old and dated design. No gear position sensor, just a switch for the gear display, no strain gauge either. Quite agricultural as well. Mine lasted 300 kms and then pulled out and moved on for a PPG sequential, no comparison between them.

Cannot confirm 100%, no.