Piggaz

When every dope puts an auto in their gtr to make it a 4WD VL?

What’s wrong with it? If you want a 6 speed box (5 speeds suck), that cops the grunt what do you put in? A Getrag is getting up there in $$ now. Going to reverse is hardly a big deal. If you’re going to go to reverse then you’d be in 1st. Push the lever up to neutral and push it up again. Hardly a big deal.

That’s great news. About time someone pulled their finger out. Hopefully they have a few different grinds. 👍

Yep. A fair bit of shit going on.

Small issue though. The Kelford blank for an RB 26 won’t have all this stuff going for the Vcam to work. If it was as easy as regrinding a blank then it would be a piece of piss.

Sad thing is, with a >500 kw GTR, the driveline costs to do properly just as much as the engine. Anyone can chuck a big turbo at it, making it reliable and useable is a totally different kettle of fish. Diffs (front diff on these things are THE BEST MOD YOU CAN DO), transfer case and box. *insert throwing cash out the window .gif*

OSG 5 speed assuming a 265/35x18 tyre, 4.11:1 diffs and 8000 rpm is 87 138 190 234 290 or 310 using the stock 5th ratio. Factory is 75 120 180 234 310 Having spent the time, effort and money OSG 5 speed (and breaking it with 470 rwkw), it really is a sideways step. Same result as a factory box (they break) and the gear ratios SUCK. They’re just too tall not to mention the 5 speed setup isn’t the nicest box to shift. Getrag’s as mentioned above are not worth it anymore BUT they are a much nicer shifting box. With the 3.0 you won’t want a Getrag/4.11:1 anyway. Be rowing gears like a stock evo BUT a 6 speed does wake the car up so much. Question, IF this 5 speed doesn’t last behind the 3.0/8474, what will you do then... apart from put it up on jack stands and cry. It’s a shame there isn’t a decent synchro 6 speed box that is strong as an ox, large input shaft, synchro that bolts straight in and can get replacement parts for. It’s one of those things as a GTR owner is almost like a rite of passage. Up the grunt, build a big donk, blow the driveline to the moon. Bit like realising you’ve spent 10 years playing in the sandpit with twin turbo’s thinking they’re the “way it has to be” 🤣.

You would need to confirm the lobe angle of the step 1 cam. The step 1 is only wedged on 1 side so you would think/assume the lobe angle would be different than a step 2 BUT I can’t confirm that as I have no measured it. Rb25 and Vcam cam shafts have nothing in common. This is essentially an EJ25 system that has been shoehorned to make work on an RB26. You’d be better off asking for an EJ25 nose and grooves that has the lobes spaced to suit an RB26 with a profile of “x”. My bet is they won’t want anything to do with it. 🤣 The thread below has photo’s in it showing what I’m talking about. https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/vcam-step-1-and-stock-turbo.504185/

So Benny carried out a turbine housing touch test. After a 20 minute drive he touched the compressor housing, that was cool enough and then dropped a finger on the turbine housing. Even the 1.05 T4 was hot. This was the result. 🤣

At what turbine speeds? Both of those look far from “all in”. Considering an 8374 will piss in 600 whp, why are a 8474 and 9180 which flow far more only touching those numbers? Have you you got a decent exhaust on it yet or does it still have that 2.1 inch thing you said was on it a while ago? If that has not been addressed you are wasting your time.

But it doesn’t exhale as much 🤷‍♂️👍😂

You can put that 73.7 mm crank in the bin... where it belongs.

About farken time!

Bump!

Go downstairs, start your car and put your hand on the turbine housing at idle. Please take a video. ?

Because it’s all about the compressor. The turbine side isn’t a consideration it seems. “750 hp” compressor, doesn’t matter if it can’t get out. ??

Keen to see your real world review after running the twin butt plugs for so long, not to mention the GTX frankenfails. ?

Hi guys, I have my old lower lip up for grabs. Only reason I pulled it off was because I bought a new S3 lip as my car should have on it. It’s not perfect, I have tried to show the condition of it as best I could. Located in Kogarah Bay, Sydney, 2217. Due to its size I’m not interested in posting it. Pick up only. Price: $500 negotiable. Contact me through PM.

Apart from killing a Nismo twin plate in bumper to bumper traffic with stock turbos?

Just drive it.

The easy and logical way to know would be to run a speed sensor. No one can tell you what the max boost can/will be.

Changed the load cell. I already had one from the OS88. I still have the gearbox in the car.

Hi guys, I have essentially a brand new PPG gear lever mounted load cell. It came brand new with my PPG sequential gearbox. It may have been on the car for 50 kms. It’s in perfect working condition. Price - $800 AUD including postage anywhere in Australia.

Going off spring rates alone to gauge how harsh/firm they are doesn’t tell you much at all. You have valving and fluid used also to consider. The springs in my current setup are 15 mm front/9 mm rear and are much better at soaking up a bad road than a set of “softer BC’s” (which feel like you have railway sleepers as suspension) and even Nismo S tunes. You get what you pay for here and a $1099 set isn’t worth the box they come in. Might be 36,000 way adjustable but it’s hard, hard, hard, harder and hardest. Bilstien PSS9’s and the Ohlin DFV’s are probably a good place to start or as you have already said, the guys at MCA. FWIW, I’ve had stock, Nismo S tunes, Nismo R tunes and the current setup which is Modified PSS9’s.